{"id":951,"date":"2019-03-12T14:50:21","date_gmt":"2019-03-12T14:50:21","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/solene.amoros\/?p=951"},"modified":"2019-12-13T12:46:44","modified_gmt":"2019-12-13T12:46:44","slug":"english-finger-recovery-program-based-on-stanish-protocol","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/solene.amoros\/english-finger-recovery-program-based-on-stanish-protocol\/","title":{"rendered":"[English] Finger recovery program based on Stanish Protocol"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"767\" src=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/solene.amoros\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/P1090469-1024x767.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-952\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/solene.amoros\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/P1090469-1024x767.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/solene.amoros\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/P1090469-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/solene.amoros\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/P1090469-768x575.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption>Warming up at the crag <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Je rassemble ici le r\u00e9sum\u00e9 de mes publications Instagram (en anglais) sur ma r\u00e9\u00e9ducation des doigts. Article prochainement en fran\u00e7ais si \u00e7a vous int\u00e9resse&#8230;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"has-text-align-center wp-block-heading\"><strong>Healing nagging finger injuries<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Since october, I have struggled with an <strong>unidentifiable pain<\/strong> in my lateral band of the proximal and intermediate phalanges of my left middle finger when I was crimping. It started with a violent pain on a jug. I directly stopped but since <strong>scans and MRI didn\u2019t show anything<\/strong> else than inflammation I kept going and continued climbing twice a week (with tape) with the blessing of my doctors and physio. <br>I had ups and downs, I felt well (because I did not take any crimp) but it didn\u2019t heal. I had different kind of pains but always <strong>along the flexor digitorum tendon and his insertion (lateral side), like a tendinitis<\/strong>. I tried a lot of exercices and treatments with my physio but that pain just didn\u2019t leave!! <br>So, during Christmas holidays, we decided that I would stop climbing for 3 weeks, I was bored and I needed to find a solution. When I started again, I fell exactly the same. The same pain, at the same place. BUT I was sure that if something was broken it was not anymore because I gave it time to heal!! We soon understood that <strong>the scar tissue was the problem and that I needed to remodel it.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>To rehab my middle finger but also to strengthen my ring finger pulley (after my <a href=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/solene.amoros\/rupture-de-poulie\/\">pulley surgery<\/a>), I needed to slowly learn to crimp again! I haven\u2019t crimped with my left hand for 6 months!! In agreement with my physio and my trainer, I started an <strong>eccentric program based on Stanish Protocol<\/strong> (see below). Of course it hurt at the beginning and I felt terribly weak but the results were immediately encouraging&#8230;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Recommendations:<\/strong><br><br>&#x26a0;&#xfe0f; Make sure to be warmed up!<br>&#x26a0;&#xfe0f;&nbsp;Be careful not to slip!<br>&#x26a0;&#xfe0f;&nbsp;Stop if it hurts abnormally.&nbsp; <\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"has-text-align-center wp-block-heading\"><strong>Level 1<\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-file\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/solene.amoros\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/IMG_9723.mov\">Video (1)<\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/solene.amoros\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/IMG_9723.mov\" class=\"wp-block-file__button\" download>T\u00e9l\u00e9charger<\/a><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>This exercice is level 1 of my program. In full body extension, pull on good crimps with big feet and do the eccentric slowly and in control. <br><em>5 x (30\u201d work, 45\u201d rest), 2 series with 5\u2019 between<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>When I started rehab level 1, my hand was shaking and I felt terribly weak! It didn\u2019t really hurt but of course I felt something (about 2\/10 if I had to evaluate the pain). It\u2019s normal, said my physio, the tissue are working. Also, I couldn\u2019t climb more than a hour the day after, even without crimping! I chose to take it easy with climbing for a few weeks, because my rehabilitation is the priority. It\u2019s important <strong>listening to your fingers<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>After a week of level 1 (every other day), I felt better and stronger. It became easy which means I was ready for level 2!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"has-text-align-center wp-block-heading\"><strong>Level 2<\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-file\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/solene.amoros\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/44401257_1268333796657097_4295811997530540774_n.mp4\">Video (2)<\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/solene.amoros\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/44401257_1268333796657097_4295811997530540774_n.mp4\" class=\"wp-block-file__button\" download>T\u00e9l\u00e9charger<\/a><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>The action to pull (concentric) is the same as level 1 (pull on good crimps with big feet in your maximum body extension). Then keep crimping for 3 seconds, time to change your feet to really smaller ones. And do the eccentric slowly and in control.&nbsp;<br><em>5 x (30\u201d work 44\u201d rest), 2 series with 5&prime; between<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/solene.amoros\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/P1090466-Copie-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-957\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/solene.amoros\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/P1090466-Copie-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/solene.amoros\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/P1090466-Copie-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/solene.amoros\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/P1090466-Copie-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"has-text-align-center wp-block-heading\"><strong>In addition<\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>To complet my remodeling program I also did some hangs based on this very nice protocol (phase 2) made by Esther Smith for Black Diamond : <a href=\"https:\/\/eu.blackdiamondequipment.com\/en_FR\/experience-story?cid=esther-smith-nagging-finger-injuries\">https:\/\/eu.blackdiamondequipment.com\/en_FR\/experience-story?cid=esther-smith-nagging-finger-injuries<\/a><br>I mainly foccused my recovery on 1\/2 crimp and good sloppers (with 2 phalanges) hangs because it was what hurt me the most, but you must choose holds that are good for your recovery. <br><em>6 x (10&Prime; hang, 20&Prime; rest),&nbsp;2&nbsp;series&nbsp;with&nbsp;5&prime;&nbsp;between<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Finally, I also tried to strengthen my lumbricals muscles by contrating the palm of the hand having your fingers stretched. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"has-text-align-center wp-block-heading\"><strong>Results<\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>Doing this exercies <strong>every other days<\/strong>, I was thrilled by the <strong>quick progress<\/strong> I made on level 1. But the level 2 was really harder and took much more time. I used to do my exercices a first time, slowly, to finish my warm up and another time at the end of my climbing session.   <br>It was awesome being able to effectively<strong> continue my physical therapy program while climbing<\/strong> and progressing in training, <strong>allowing my A2 pulley and flexor tendon to fully repair<\/strong> (what was the priority!). <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Today, I don&rsquo;t really know why (weather? fatigue?), there are days when I still have pain (only on my middle finger) because of the inflammation but after a few repetitions of the eccentric exercises I don&rsquo;t feel <strong>any pain anymore<\/strong> ! And I can go rockclimbing again !!!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"575\" src=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/solene.amoros\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/P1090461-1-1024x575.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-963\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/solene.amoros\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/P1090461-1-1024x575.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/solene.amoros\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/P1090461-1-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/solene.amoros\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/P1090461-1-768x432.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Hope this article can help you. It takes time, stay positive!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>See you soon,<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Soso  &#x2665; <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Je rassemble ici le r\u00e9sum\u00e9 de mes publications Instagram (en anglais) sur ma r\u00e9\u00e9ducation des doigts. Article prochainement en fran\u00e7ais si \u00e7a vous int\u00e9resse&#8230; Healing nagging finger injuries Since october,&#8230; <a class=\"read-more\" href=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/solene.amoros\/english-finger-recovery-program-based-on-stanish-protocol\/\">[Continuer la lecture]<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":952,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1,8],"tags":[13,12,14,15],"class_list":["post-951","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-non-classe","category-reeducation","tag-climber","tag-finger-injury","tag-finger-recovery","tag-stanish-protocol-for-climber"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v26.6 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>[English] Finger recovery program based on Stanish Protocol - Sol\u00e8ne Amoros, le blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/solene.amoros\/english-finger-recovery-program-based-on-stanish-protocol\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"[English] Finger recovery program based on Stanish Protocol - Sol\u00e8ne Amoros, le blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Je rassemble ici le r\u00e9sum\u00e9 de mes publications Instagram (en anglais) sur ma r\u00e9\u00e9ducation des doigts. 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