{"id":322,"date":"2012-08-15T12:16:42","date_gmt":"2012-08-15T12:16:42","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.grimpisme.com\/solene.amoros\/?p=322"},"modified":"2013-08-20T11:18:21","modified_gmt":"2013-08-20T11:18:21","slug":"autriche","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/solene.amoros\/autriche\/","title":{"rendered":"Autriche"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"\"
Miaaam!!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Salut tout le monde!<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Je reviens d’Autriche o\u00f9 je suis rest\u00e9e 10 jours avec l’\u00e9quipe de France, d’abord pour la c\u00e9l\u00e8bre coupe\u00a0d’Europe jeune \u00e0 Imst, puis pour un stage d’une semaine en pr\u00e9paration pour Singapour.<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Tout d’abord ma compet: je termine 3\u00e8me ex-aequo des qualifs. Je tombe\u00a0dans ma premi\u00e8re voie sur une\u00a0erreur\u00a0de placement de mes pieds alors que franchement j’\u00e9tais bien, et je sors ma deuxi\u00e8me voie (qui n’\u00e9tait pas bien dure) tard dans l’apr\u00e8s midi… Toute l’\u00e9quipe est en finale!!Le lendemain, les finales, toutes les filles de toutes cat\u00e9gories dans la m\u00eame voie sur la gauche du mur. C’\u00e9tait bien s\u00fbr d’abord les minimes filles qui\u00a0s\u2019\u00e9lan\u00e7aient\u00a0t\u00f4t le matin. A la lecture je n’ai pas r\u00e9ussi \u00e0 d\u00e9chiffrer le toit, loin du sol donc dur \u00e0 lire, mais je ne me suis pas inqui\u00e9t\u00e9e puisque la voie \u00e9tait longue et que dans ma grimpe\u00a0je pourrais le<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

\n
\n
Le toit d’Imst<\/span><\/strong><\/dd>\n<\/dl>\n<\/div>\n

comprendre avant d’y arriver, sauf que \u00e7a n’a pas \u00e9t\u00e9 le cas! J’ai trouv\u00e9 facile tout le d\u00e9but de voie, et arriv\u00e9e \u00e0 ce fameux toit je n’ai pas su quoi faire et je n’ai surtout pas pris de d\u00e9cision, ce qui m’a \u00e9t\u00e9 fatal puisque je me suis plac\u00e9e pour une premi\u00e8re m\u00e9thode (que j’aurais d\u00fb faire) mais je suis redescendue pour me re-concentrer avant de repartir dans une autre m\u00e9thode et\u00a0d\u2019encha\u00eener. Mais en repartant je r\u00e9-h\u00e9site sur une autre m\u00e9thode qui \u00e9tait de \u00ab\u00a0chunter\u00a0\u00bb, mais finalement j’essaye la deuxi\u00e8me m\u00e9thode, la moins bonne, avec un calage de genou que je n’ai pas\u00a0r\u00e9ussi (et me suis fais un\u00a0gros bleu!!), l\u00e0 je tombe sans m’\u00eatre mis de combat! R\u00e9sultat je me retrouve 6\u00e8me, j’ai fait une compet moyenne. Il faut que je crois plus en moi et ne dois pas h\u00e9siter.<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Ensuite l’apr\u00e8s-midi m\u00eame, le stage \u00e0 d\u00e9but\u00e9 par un retour sur les voies de finales sur le mur. Puis le lendemain un jour de repos, suivi d’un jour d’entrainement \u00e0 Innsbruck, d’un jour dans la salle de Imst cette fois avec du bloc le matin, et de nouveau un jour de repos avec le trajet pour Mitterdorf (7 heures, \u00e0 l’autre bout de l’Autriche, pr\u00e8s de Vienne). Puis deux jours sur ce m\u00e9ga giga mur<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/span><\/strong>
L'impressionnant mur de Mitterdorf<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

avec l’\u00e9quipe Slov\u00e8ne. Le th\u00e8me du stage \u00e9tait\u00a0plut\u00f4t\u00a0qualitatif, dernier r\u00e9glage, et bien sur r\u00e9si! Chaque jour nous avons eu une voie niveau demi-finales et finale championnats du monde \u00e0 vue.\u00a0Personnellement j’ai trouv\u00e9 \u00eatre de mieux en mieux au fur et \u00e0 mesure du stage et j’esp\u00e8re \u00eatre pr\u00eate pour le jour J! Pour\u00a0\u00e7a\u00a0je vais bien faire le protocole de d\u00e9calage\u00a0horaire\u00a0propos\u00e9.<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Bye bye! Prochain r\u00e9sum\u00e9 \u00e0 la rentr\u00e9e apr\u00e8s Singapour!<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Salut tout le monde! Je reviens d’Autriche o\u00f9 je suis rest\u00e9e 10 jours avec l’\u00e9quipe de France, d’abord pour la c\u00e9l\u00e8bre coupe\u00a0d’Europe jeune \u00e0 Imst, puis pour un stage d’une… [Continuer la lecture]<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-322","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-competitions","no-post-thumbnail"],"yoast_head":"\nAutriche - Sol\u00e8ne Amoros, le blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/solene.amoros\/autriche\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Autriche - Sol\u00e8ne Amoros, le blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Salut tout le monde! Je reviens d’Autriche o\u00f9 je suis rest\u00e9e 10 jours avec l’\u00e9quipe de France, d’abord pour la c\u00e9l\u00e8bre coupe\u00a0d’Europe jeune \u00e0 Imst, puis pour un stage d’une... 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