{"id":741,"date":"2014-03-25T16:48:38","date_gmt":"2014-03-25T15:48:38","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/?p=741"},"modified":"2014-03-26T09:11:02","modified_gmt":"2014-03-26T08:11:02","slug":"nouvelle-grande-voie-corse-arnaud-petit","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/nouvelle-grande-voie-corse-arnaud-petit\/","title":{"rendered":"New multi pitch in Corsica by Arnaud Petit en Jeff ArnoldiNouvelle grande voie en Corse par A.Petit et J.Arnoldi"},"content":{"rendered":"

\u00ab Le non-sens et la joie \u00bb – Cascioni \u2013 Corsica – 250 m \u2013 8a max \u2013 7b oblig.
\nOpened in march by Arnaud Petit and Jeff Arnoldi.
\nMore photos on Arnaud’s blog<\/a>.<\/p>\n

\"climbing<\/a><\/p>\n

Route description, thanks to Jeff:<\/p>\n

\u00ab\u00a0A beautiful steep route on orange granite, mainly on gear (14 bolts total). Exposed and sustained climbing on slopers and cracks. Comfortable belays after pitch 3 (P3). The route can be linked with the original classic Enterre mon coeur to top out (450m of climbing).<\/p>\n

First ascent : Jeff Arnoldi and Arnaud Petit in three days of march 2014, finishing the job started by Arnaud and St\u00e9phanie Bodet in October 2013 (P1 and P2). The route has not been freed yet. The grades given a possibly soft.<\/p>\n

This is the third route up the West face of the Cascionu, after Enterre mon c\u0153ur (1990-1994, a bold incursion initiated by Jean Toussaint Casanova and Pierre Pietri) and Syncope (by a crew led by Vlado Linski in 2007-2008). To the right of the main wall is also A Ringrazia by Jeff Andreucci, Estelle Bord and Carlos Ascensao.<\/p>\n

The finish through Enterre mon c\u0153ur is highly recommended, featuring a great 50m 7a+ (although the presence of numerous rusty bolts next to welcoming cracks can be disturbing) and a satisfying finish to the summit (cf. the excellent French\/English Guide \u00ab Grandes Voies Corses \u00bb ). We have changed the belays to allow a safe retreat and a convenient way down.<\/p>\n

Acknowlegments: Agn\u00e8s Leclerc, Morgane Choquet and Guillaume Touzet for helping us carrying our gear, Thierry Souchard (breakfast, beers, cheese) Vlado Linsky (ideas for future ascents and directions to his near-by newly developed sport climbing wall), Pierre Pietri (for suggesting this wall to Arnaud, 20 years ago).<\/p>\n

Directions :
\nPorto Region (West of Corsica, France).
\nApproach : 1 h.
\nPark by the bridge 2 km Est of Ota (Porto commune).
\nThe West Face of the Cascioni is visible from the south end of the bridge.
\nFollow the right bank of the river Lonca for 5min, take a left by a dead chestnut tree, following yellow marks soon leading to a wider trail. Follow the later for about 20min, passing a rocky field towards the river, then away from it and back. Cross the river 30m after a sandy bank and a massive chestnut tree. The trail then goes right before leading up towards the wall. Leave the trail 50m after a first oak tree (30m before a second one) and scramble up towards the base of the route.<\/p>\n

Gear :
\n50 m rope, quick-draws, many slings to avoid rope-drag.
\nTwo complete racks from the blue Alien (Al-b) to Camalot #2 (C#2). Three Al-y or Yellow Totemcam (T-y). The smallest Alien and one C#3 can be useful.<\/p>\n

P1 : 50 m, 6c+ *
\nLoose rock but safe gear in the hard section. Start without protections up 20m of easy terrain towards a slab (one bolt). Climb though it (Enterre mon c\u0153ur goes left) and then up the corner (3 bolts). The belay is on the obvious slab up left.<\/p>\n

P2 : 40 m 7a+ or 7b ***
\nCommiting and technical face climbing. Start up a weird chossy corner (place two small cams before the bolt). Climb left towards a small roof under which it is possible to place some gear before committing into the slab towards a bolt. Pass the bolt (crux) and make it to a large flake, sitting on a ledge. Go carefully around this flake from the left to reach an easy corner. From there, follow the cracks towards the belay (the second C#2 is only useful for this last section).<\/p>\n

P3 : 40 m 7c+ maybe 8a ****
\nWorld class. Hard face then classic roof climbing on gear. Exhilarating finish. Mind the rope-drag.
\nStart up a crack above the belay, place a C#3 if you have it, and proceed though 15m of sustained face climbing (5 bolts). Under the obvious roof, place some cams and climb slightly to the right using a crack towards a flake (one pre-placed nut). Place a C#0,5 (or smaller) and fire through the lip and into the final wall (7m to the ledge).<\/p>\n

P4 : 30 m 7c maybe 7c+ ****
\nSteep sustained climbing on slopers and cracks.
\nPlace a small cam just above the belay to reach the first bolt. Follows a hard section (3 bolts total) leading to a small bulk in which it is possible to place some small cams. Mantle past it to a ledge (rusty piton). Go left (1 bolt) towards the \u00ab radiator \u00bb easy to protect but hard to climb (final crux).<\/p>\n

P5 : 35 m 7b+ ****
\nClimbs though a series of steep walls on slopers. Superb and committing.
\nTraverse 5m to the left before heading strait up for 15m. After about 10m an Al-g or T-b is essential to protect the first committing crux, leading to a ledge. Traverse right until standing right above the belay. Climb strait up, placing some safe gear before commiting into the head wall (crux). The last section is easer and leads to the left of the \u00ab nose \u00bb.<\/p>\n

P6 : 35 m 6c+ ***
\n\u00ab The nose \u00bb. A short section on inverted flakes leads to the pillar above the nose. Build a belay just before the grassy ledges or use the rappel anchor on the left (note its location for the way down).<\/p>\n

P7 : 50 m 5c *
\nScramble towards a steep corner on the right. Climb past the rappel anchor towards a large tree on the main ledge.<\/p>\n

P8 to P12 : Enterre mon c\u0153ur
\nP8 *, 6a, 10 m to the right of the tree, a fractured corner (small cams, one rusty piton) leads to the start of P9.
\nP9 **** 7a+, 50 m. Beautiful pitch on rusty bolts. A few cams can be useful (C#0,75 C#1 ). The rappel anchor is on the left of the ledge.
\nL10 ** 30 m spits, 7a+ maybe 7b. Bolted.
\nL11 *** : 40 m, 6b+ then 5c. Bolted.
\nL12 ** : 40 m, 6a, Bolted.\u00a0\u00bb<\/p>\n

\"new<\/a>Arnaud Petit (http:\/\/vagabondsdelaverticale.wordpress.com<\/a>) nous donne les infos sur une nouvelle grande voie qu’il vient d’ouvrir avec Jeff Arnoldi en Corse.
\n\u00ab Le non-sens et la joie \u00bb, 250 m – 8a max – 7b oblig, Capu Cascioni, Corse.<\/p>\n

Plus de photos sur le blog d’Arnaud<\/a>.<\/p>\n

\"grande<\/a><\/p>\n

\u00ab\u00a0Voie tr\u00e8s raide, originale sur 6 longueurs faisant majoritairement appel \u00e0 l’assurage sur coinceurs (14 spits en tout dans les longueurs). Au menu des plats assez physiques et une tr\u00e8s belle ambiance gazeuse avec des relais 4 \u00e9toiles \u00e0 partir de R3.
\nLa voie rejoint Enterre mon c\u0153ur pour sortir au sommet (450 m de grimpe en tout).<\/p>\n

Ouverture : Jeff Arnoldi et Arnaud Petit en 3 journ\u00e9es de mars 2014, apr\u00e8s une journ\u00e9e en octobre pour L1 et L2 (St\u00e9phanie Bodet et Arnaud Petit).
\nLa voie n’a pas \u00e9t\u00e9 encha\u00een\u00e9e en libre. Il se peut que les cotations propos\u00e9es soient plut\u00f4t gentilles.<\/p>\n

C’est la troisi\u00e8me voie de cette paroi Ouest du Cascioni apr\u00e8s les majeures et difficiles Enterre mon c\u0153ur (1990-1994, incursion audacieuse initi\u00e9 par Jean Toussaint Casanova et Pierre Pietri) puis Syncope (men\u00e9 par Vlado Linski en 2007-2008). Juste \u00e0 droite du mur principal on trouve \u00e9galement A Ringrazia de Jeff Andreucci, Estelle Bord et Carlos Ascensao. <\/p>\n

La sortie au sommet par Enterre mon c\u0153ur est vivement conseill\u00e9e, le 7a+ de 50 m est de toute beaut\u00e9 (malgr\u00e9 la pr\u00e9sence incongrue de nombreux spits \u00e0 c\u00f4t\u00e9 de fissures) et l’arriv\u00e9e au sommet charmante (cf l’excellent topo des \u00ab Grandes Voies Corses \u00bb d’o\u00f9 la photo du trac\u00e9 est tir\u00e9e).
\nCertains spits sont bien rouill\u00e9s mais c’est encore acceptable d’autant que l’on peut mettre des coinceurs et que nous avons r\u00e9\u00e9quip\u00e9s les relais \u00e0 neuf pour les rappels.<\/p>\n

Remerciements : <\/u>
\nAgn\u00e8s Leclercq (casting grimpeurs-porteurs), Morgane Choquet et Guillaume Touzet (bloqueurs-porteurs), Thierry Souchard (petit dej, bi\u00e8res, fromage) Vlado Linsky (id\u00e9es de parois pour le futur et son top secteur de couennes Cima\u00efesque), Pierre Pietri (de m’avoir parl\u00e9 de cette paroi il y a 20 ans).<\/p>\n

Acc\u00e8s :<\/u>
\nR\u00e9gion de Porto (Ouest de la Corse). Sommet \u00e0 1091 m.
\nExposition Ouest \u2013 ombre jusqu’\u00e0 12 h 30 \u2013 13 h en avril.<\/p>\n

Approche :<\/u>
\nCompter 1 h.
\nParking sur la route au pont \u00e0 2 km \u00e0 l’Est d’Ota (commune de Porto).
\nLa paroi se voit bien depuis le c\u00f4t\u00e9 Sud du Pont.
\nDu c\u00f4t\u00e9 Nord du pont un sentier b\u00e9tonn\u00e9 suit le torrent (la Lonca), apr\u00e8s 5′ \u00e0 un ch\u00e2taigner mort prendre \u00e0 gauche un sentier qui monte \u00e0 flanc (marque jaune que l’on suivra ensuite) et qui rejoint apr\u00e8s 5′ un autre sentier plus large, le suivre pendant 20 min. Il passe un pierrier puis rejoint la rivi\u00e8re avant de s’en \u00e9carter \u00e0 nouveau et y revenir: on rejoint une plage avec des buis et un \u00e9norme ch\u00e2taigner, 30 m apr\u00e8s, traverser la rivi\u00e8re, le sentier part d’abord l\u00e9g\u00e8rement \u00e0 droite puis monte raide pour arriver sous la face. Le quitter assez tard (50 m apr\u00e8s un premier gros ch\u00eane et 30 m avant un deuxi\u00e8me) pour monter tr\u00e8s raide (traces d’animaux) \u00e0 l’aplomb du bord gauche de la paroi principale puis traverser sur la fin pour rejoindre le pied de la voie. <\/p>\n

Mat\u00e9riel :<\/u>
\nCordes de 50 m, d\u00e9gaines dont de nombreuse longues.
\nCoinceurs : en double depuis Alien bleu jusque Camalot 2. Tripler l’Alien jaune (ou Totem jaune).
\nEventuellement le plus petit Alien et un Camalot 3 (seulement utile au d\u00e9part de L3).<\/p>\n

L1 : 50 m, 6c+ *
\nPas majeur… rocher m\u00e9diocre mais assurage tr\u00e8s bon dans le dur.
\nD\u00e9bute par du terrain \u00e0 chamois, 20 m de 3 en solo avant une petite dalle en 5c (spit), sur la terrasse qui suit la voie part tout droit ( Enterre mon c\u0153ur traverse \u00e0 gauche), di\u00e8dre mal commode (3 spits) puis friends, se r\u00e9tablir \u00e0 gauche. <\/p>\n

L2 : 40 m 7a+ ou 7b ***
\nTr\u00e8s beau mur, longueur exigeante et vari\u00e9e.
\nAttaquer par un petit di\u00e8dre malcommode (un peu sableux, deux petits friends puis un spit); on rejoint au-dessus \u00e0 gauche un petit surplomb dans lequel on se prot\u00e8ge, s’engager droit dessus dans un mur raide jusqu’\u00e0 un spit, crux pour atteindre une \u00e9caille pos\u00e9 que l’on contourne par la gauche (attention \u00e0 cette \u00e9caille), rejoindre un di\u00e8dre facile \u00e0 droite et suivre logiquement les fissures qui m\u00e8nent \u00e0 R3. Le 2e C#2 ne sert que pour cette longueur (5-7 m sous le relais).
\nAttention \u00e0 bien g\u00e9rer le tirage.<\/p>\n

L3 : 35-40 m 7c+ ou 8a ****
\nExceptionnelle, d’abord en mur puis en fissures et toit.
\nOn fera \u00e9galement attention au tirage pour \u00eatre bien dans le dernier mur apr\u00e8s le r\u00e9ta.
\nAu-dessus du relais, fissure pour un C#3 si vous l’avez pris, puis 15 m soutenu en mur (5 spits). On arrive sous le toit que l’on passe tout droit l\u00e9g\u00e8rement \u00e0 droite (friends en-dessous), un c\u00e2bl\u00e9 en place au r\u00e9ta que l’on compl\u00e8te avec un C#0,5 (tout petit possible aussi), tr\u00e8s r\u00e9si, puis r\u00e9ta physique l\u00e9g\u00e8rement \u00e0 droite, final marquant, sans protection sur les 7 derniers m\u00e8tres pour atteindre la vire.<\/p>\n

L4 : 30 m 7c ou 7c+ ****
\nBomb\u00e9s physiques, conti avec nombreux crux. Magnifique.
\nPetit friend 3 m au-dessus du relais, puis bomb\u00e9, r\u00e9ta bien r\u00e9si (3 spits), apr\u00e8s le 3e spit continuer tout droit, r\u00e9sistant sur plats pour placer des protections sous et dans un petit bomb\u00e9, r\u00e9ta, vire, un piton que l’on peut coupler avec un coinceur, traverser vers la gauche (spit) pour rejoindre \u00ab le radiateur \u00bb, facile \u00e0 prot\u00e9ger mais tr\u00e8s physique (crux final).<\/p>\n

L5 : 35 m 7b+ ****
\nSuccession de panneaux bien d\u00e9vers sur plats. Engag\u00e9 et superbe.
\nTraverser \u00e0 gauche 5 m et monter droit sur 15 m, apr\u00e8s 10-12 m, un Alien vert ou un Totem bleu prot\u00e8ge le premier crux obligatoire, on atteind une vire, revenir \u00e0 droite \u00e0 l’aplomb du relais pour partir droit au-dessus, tr\u00e8s bonnes protections que l’on peut doubler dans un toit pyuis \u00e9ventuellement dans le beau mur d\u00e9versant qui fait suite (deuxi\u00e8me crux). La fin est moins d\u00e9vers et moins dure, elle am\u00e8ne au pied de la partie gauche du nez surplombant. <\/p>\n

L6 : 35 m 6c+ ***
\nPassage superbe en d\u00fclfer pour gravir le nez par la gauche. Le dur est court.
\nOn part au-dessus du relais en diagonale \u00e0 droite dans le beau d\u00e9vers. Il \u00e9tait possible de faire plus facile par un di\u00e8dre \u00e0 gauche mais ce passage est tr\u00e8s sympa. Relais sur friends apr\u00e8s 35 m avant les terrasses (ou \u00e0 gauche sur le relais de rappel que l’on rep\u00e9rera)<\/p>\n

L7 : 50 m 5c *
\nTerrasse, di\u00e8dre raide \u00e0 droite. On atteint un bel arbre au pied du mur sommital. Grande vire ici. Rep\u00e9rer 15 m avant le relais de rappel dans l’axe. <\/p>\n

L8, L9, L10, L11, L12 : Enterre mon c\u0153ur
\nPour L8 *, 6a, 10 m \u00e0 droite de l’arbre, gravir un di\u00e8dre fractur\u00e9 (petits friends, un piton au milieu de la longueur)
\nL9 **** 7a+, 50 m : longueur exceptionnelle, fissure puis mur, 7a+ de conti. Coinceurs utiles pour renforcer les spits (!). Relais dans l’axe, rep\u00e9rer 5 m \u00e0 gauche le relais de rappel.
\nL10 ** 30 m : apr\u00e8s une travers\u00e9e sur une vire de 10 m, petite longueur \u00e0 doigt uniquement sur spits, 7a+ ou 7b.
\nL11 *** : 40 m, d\u00e9part physique, 6b+ puis tr\u00e8s belle dalle en 5c, relais sous la vire dans l’axe.
\nL12 ** : 40 m, vires puis vers la gauche, murs raides uniquement sur spits.\u00a0\u00bb<\/p>\n

\"grande<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u00ab Le non-sens et la joie \u00bb – Cascioni \u2013 Corsica – 250 m \u2013 8a max \u2013 7b oblig.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"colormag_page_container_layout":"default_layout","colormag_page_sidebar_layout":"default_layout","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[4,1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-741","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-escalade","category-news"],"yoast_head":"\nNew multi pitch in Corsica by Arnaud Petit en Jeff ArnoldiNouvelle grande voie en Corse par A.Petit et J.Arnoldi – L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - 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