{"id":6702,"date":"2015-10-31T09:11:27","date_gmt":"2015-10-31T08:11:27","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/?p=6702"},"modified":"2015-11-01T20:12:59","modified_gmt":"2015-11-01T19:12:59","slug":"ama-dablam-nepal-style-alpin-lagunak-ridge","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/ama-dablam-nepal-style-alpin-lagunak-ridge\/","title":{"rendered":"Ama Dablam, N\u00e9pal: premi\u00e8re en style alpin de la Lagunak ridge"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"ama<\/a><\/p>\n

L’ar\u00eate sud-est de l’Ama Dablam (6856m, N\u00e9pal) a \u00e9t\u00e9 gravie pour la premi\u00e8re fois en 1985 par une exp\u00e9dition hispano-am\u00e9ricaine, en style himalayen avec l’utilisation de 800 m\u00e8tres de cordes fixes. C’est une ligne magnifique (1200m, 5, 5b) \u00e9galement d\u00e9nomm\u00e9e \u00ab\u00a0Lagunak ridge\u00a0\u00bb, sur une montagne souvent consid\u00e9r\u00e9e comme la plus belle du monde.<\/strong> Elle a \u00e9t\u00e9 r\u00e9p\u00e9t\u00e9e deux fois, en 1992 et 1995, \u00e0 chaque fois en style himalayen, alors que les tentatives en style alpin ont toutes \u00e9chou\u00e9es, la derni\u00e8re datant de 2005 par le couple slov\u00e8ne Tomaz Jakofcic et Tina di Batista.
\nMalgr\u00e9 un automne 2015 peu propice aux ascensions techniques dans l’Himalaya n\u00e9palais, Fleur Fouque, S\u00e9bastien Rougegr\u00e9, Fanny et Damien Tomasi ont r\u00e9ussi la premi\u00e8re ascension en style alpin de cet itin\u00e9raire, atteignant le sommet le 25 octobre \u00e0 10h30.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Damien Tomasi raconte:
\n\u00ab\u00a0Nous avons r\u00e9ussi l’ascension avec 3 bivouacs, l’un \u00e0 l’attaque de la voie, le deuxi\u00e8me \u00e0 6200m et le troisi\u00e8me \u00e0 6600 m\u00e8tres alors que l’itin\u00e9raire a rejoint la voie normale. Les conditions \u00e9taient globalement bonnes, malgr\u00e9 un deuxi\u00e8me bivouac \u00e9troit et inconfortable sous une chute de neige, et du vent fort pour le troisi\u00e8me.<\/strong>
\nLa Lagunak Ridge est vraiment une superbe voie, qui ressemble un peu \u00e0 la Brown-Patey \u00e0 l’Aiguille Verte. Nous avons v\u00e9cu une belle aventure, les deux cord\u00e9es ont grimp\u00e9 en r\u00e9versible et les filles n’ont rien l\u00e2ch\u00e9.
\nPar contre je suis scandalis\u00e9 par l’\u00e9tat de le voie normale par laquelle nous sommes redescendus. C’est un amoncellement de d\u00e9tritus, de cordes fixes pourries et mal amarr\u00e9es. Je trouve scandaleux que des agences occidentales puissent amener des clients l\u00e0 dessus!\u00a0\u00bb<\/strong><\/p>\n

Toute l’\u00e9quipe remercie ses partenaires: <\/u>
\nChamonix Experience, la Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix, Simond, Julbo, Peak Performance et Arc’teryx.<\/p>\nngg_shortcode_0_placeholder\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

L’ar\u00eate sud-est de l’Ama Dablam (6856m, N\u00e9pal) a \u00e9t\u00e9 gravie pour la premi\u00e8re fois en 1985 par une exp\u00e9dition hispano-am\u00e9ricaine,<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"colormag_page_container_layout":"default_layout","colormag_page_sidebar_layout":"default_layout","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[5,9,10,1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-6702","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-alpinisme","category-coup-de-gueule","category-environnement","category-news"],"yoast_head":"\nAma Dablam, N\u00e9pal: premi\u00e8re en style alpin de la Lagunak ridge – L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - 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Mais on va \u00e0 C\u00e9\u00fcse, Fontainebleau, Buoux ou encore les Gorges du Verdon quand vous voulez.","sameAs":["http:\/\/www.grimpisme.com","https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/fredCaillouXvionnet","https:\/\/www.linkedin.com\/profile\/preview?vpa=pub&locale=fr_FR","https:\/\/fr.pinterest.com\/grimpisme\/","https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/user\/grimpisme","https:\/\/soundcloud.com\/fredvionnet"],"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/author\/fred\/"}]}},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p68Rw6-1K6","jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":8133,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/video-gmhm-voie-harlin-eiger\/","url_meta":{"origin":6702,"position":0},"title":"Vid\u00e9o: le GMHM dans la voie Harlin \u00e0 l’Eiger","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"22 mars 2016","format":false,"excerpt":"Voici une vid\u00e9o du Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne tentant la premi\u00e8re ascension en style alpin de la voie Harlin dans la face nord de l'Eiger. Oui, vous avez bien lu, en style alpin (c'est \u00e0 dire sans cordes fixes ni camps d'altitude permettant les allers-retours), cela donne bien une\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "News et actu"","block_context":{"text":"News et actu","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/news\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]},{"id":13928,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/video-kevin-jorgeson-ben-rueck-west-face-of-sentinel\/","url_meta":{"origin":6702,"position":1},"title":"Vid\u00e9o: Kevin Jorgeson et Ben Rueck lib\u00e8rent \u00ab\u00a0West Face of Sentinel\u00a0\u00bb","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"11 avril 2017","format":false,"excerpt":"Kevin Jorgeson et Ben Rueck r\u00e9alisent en libre la premi\u00e8re ascension de \"West Face of Sentinel\". Ce big wall historique du Yosemite a \u00e9t\u00e9 gravi pour la premi\u00e8re fois en 1960 par Tom Frost et Yvon Chouinard.","rel":"","context":"Dans "Escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/Capture-d%E2%80%99e%CC%81cran-2017-04-11-a%CC%80-21.13.40.png?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/Capture-d%E2%80%99e%CC%81cran-2017-04-11-a%CC%80-21.13.40.png?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/Capture-d%E2%80%99e%CC%81cran-2017-04-11-a%CC%80-21.13.40.png?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/Capture-d%E2%80%99e%CC%81cran-2017-04-11-a%CC%80-21.13.40.png?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":19194,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/topo-belledonne-escalade\/","url_meta":{"origin":6702,"position":2},"title":"Nouveau Topoguide Belledonne Escalade, Edition 2020","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"4 juin 2020","format":false,"excerpt":"L\u2019id\u00e9e \u00e9tait de faire une compilation des voies les plus int\u00e9ressantes. 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