{"id":4788,"date":"2015-03-31T23:00:07","date_gmt":"2015-03-31T22:00:07","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/?p=4788"},"modified":"2016-03-29T13:53:18","modified_gmt":"2016-03-29T12:53:18","slug":"nouveau-topo-les-plus-beaux-blocs-encordes-de-france","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/nouveau-topo-les-plus-beaux-blocs-encordes-de-france\/","title":{"rendered":"Nouveau topo: Les plus beaux blocs encord\u00e9s de France"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"topo<\/a><\/p>\n

D\u00e8s mes d\u00e9buts en escalade j’ai toujours eu une pr\u00e9f\u00e9rence pour les voies courtes, il faut dire qu’\u00e0 l’\u00e9poque les crashpads n’existaient pas et que les spots de bloc en Haute Savoie ne sont pas d\u00e9ments \u00e0 se rouler par terre. Je me souviens encore avec \u00e9moi de mon premier 7c, la \u00ab\u00a0Couenne au Piaf\u00a0\u00bb et ses 7 mouvements o\u00f9 j’avais r\u00e9ussi \u00e0 tomber explos\u00e9 au 5\u00e8me avant l’essai victorieux, les doigts rouges comme des merguez et le souffle court comme une truite dans un bac \u00e0 sable.
\nD’ailleurs \u00e0 cette lointaine \u00e9poque les voies dures de r\u00e9f\u00e9rence comme \u00ab\u00a0Le Minimum\u00a0\u00bb ou \u00ab\u00a0Hubble\u00a0\u00bb ne permettaient pas le d\u00e9layage. Mais \u00e7a c’\u00e9tait avant, avant que la conti n’impose son inf\u00e2me dictature sur la grimpe de haut niveau comme sur la grimpe grand public. Je viens de passer l’hiver \u00e0 supporter les regards m\u00e9prisant des athl\u00e8tes affut\u00e9s me regardant encha\u00eener p\u00e9niblement les 7a dans le gros toit \u00e0 MBE, d\u00e9sesp\u00e9rant dans l’attente de ce nouveau pan qui ne vient pas, alors c’est pour vous dire si j’en sais quelque chose de cette inf\u00e2me dictature!<\/p>\n

Bref je m’\u00e9gare… Malgr\u00e9 ces discriminations \u00e9gratignant mon ego durant toutes ces ann\u00e9es, j’ai continu\u00e9 \u00e0 fr\u00e9quenter assid\u00fbment les bouses de coin de falaise, entre ronces, papiers toilette et ruptures de poulies. J’en ai m\u00eame \u00e9quip\u00e9 quelques unes, comme \u00ab\u00a0MicroToomat\u00a0\u00bb \u00e0 R\u00e9otier (voir la vid\u00e9o<\/a>), ou encore \u00ab\u00a0Lissss comme une baignoire\u00a0\u00bb au Rif d’Oriol que Tony Lamiche \u00e0 lib\u00e9r\u00e9 l’\u00e9t\u00e9 dernier (enfin \u00e7a c’\u00e9tait avant qu’il se lance corps et \u00e2me dans le snowblade de rando<\/a>).<\/p>\n

Petit \u00e0 petit l’id\u00e9e de synth\u00e9tiser l’oeuvre d’une vie germa dans mon esprit et la cr\u00e9ation d’un topo s’imposa comme une \u00e9vidence. Voil\u00e0 je l\u00e2che le morceau, Grimpisme Editions est sur le point de publier son premier topo, \u00ab\u00a0Les plus beaux blocs encord\u00e9s de France de 2 \u00e0 8 mouvements\u00a0\u00bb, qui sera disponible le 15 avril. Pour l’occasion j’ai d’ailleurs RAIEactiv\u00e9 la boutique en ligne et vous pouvez d\u00e9j\u00e0 r\u00e9server votre exemplaire en suivant ce lien<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Je n’en dis pas plus mais sachez que 104 voies sont d\u00e9crites et qu’une application pour smartphones est en pr\u00e9paration avec un choix multi-crit\u00e8res (temp\u00e9rature id\u00e9ale pour la croix, nombre de mousquetonnages, doigts \u00e0 strapper, m\u00e9thodes, cris et insultes les plus adapt\u00e9es avec un historique des ascensions, …).
\nSuspens…<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

D\u00e8s mes d\u00e9buts en escalade j’ai toujours eu une pr\u00e9f\u00e9rence pour les voies courtes, il faut dire qu’\u00e0 l’\u00e9poque les<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"colormag_page_container_layout":"default_layout","colormag_page_sidebar_layout":"default_layout","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[1,13],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-4788","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-news","category-topos"],"yoast_head":"\nNouveau topo: Les plus beaux blocs encord\u00e9s de France – L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - 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Pas contre une grande voie non plus. Mais on va \u00e0 C\u00e9\u00fcse, Fontainebleau, Buoux ou encore les Gorges du Verdon quand vous voulez.","sameAs":["http:\/\/www.grimpisme.com","https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/fredCaillouXvionnet","https:\/\/www.linkedin.com\/profile\/preview?vpa=pub&locale=fr_FR","https:\/\/fr.pinterest.com\/grimpisme\/","https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/user\/grimpisme","https:\/\/soundcloud.com\/fredvionnet"],"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/author\/fred\/"}]}},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p68Rw6-1fe","jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":3887,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/falaises_majorque\/","url_meta":{"origin":4788,"position":0},"title":"Grimpe sur les falaises de Majorque","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"24 novembre 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"De retour d'une semaine \u00e0 Majorque avec une m\u00e9t\u00e9o bien moyenne, je vous propose un passage en revue des quelques spots visit\u00e9s et des infos pratiques. Cela pourra je l'esp\u00e8re vous aider \u00e0 pr\u00e9parer votre trip de grimpe sur cette belle \u00eele, en compl\u00e9ment de cet article du blog de\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "News et actu"","block_context":{"text":"News et actu","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/news\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/ngg_featured\/P1050525.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/ngg_featured\/P1050525.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/ngg_featured\/P1050525.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/ngg_featured\/P1050525.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":20874,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/reprendre-escalade-exterieur-apres-covid\/","url_meta":{"origin":4788,"position":1},"title":"Reprendre la grimpe en ext\u00e9rieur apr\u00e8s la crise du COVID","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"12 mai 2021","format":false,"excerpt":"Quelques conseils pour que le retour sur le rocher se passer du mieux possible apr\u00e8s une longue interruption.","rel":"","context":"Dans "Conseils entrainement escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Conseils entrainement escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/entrainement-escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"escalade mieussy anthon haute savoie","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/P1020973.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/P1020973.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/P1020973.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/P1020973.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/P1020973.jpg?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/P1020973.jpg?resize=1400%2C800&ssl=1 4x"},"classes":[]},{"id":16090,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/cap-canaille-calanques-stage-escalade\/","url_meta":{"origin":4788,"position":2},"title":"Cap Canaille, Calanques et Venasque, avril 2018","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"3 mai 2018","format":false,"excerpt":"Apr\u00e8s les premi\u00e8res aventures de l\u2019ann\u00e9e derni\u00e8re au Sal\u00e8ve, \u00e0 la dalle du Tuet ou encore \u00e0 Orpierre, nous sommes partis pour 5 jours dans les Calanques et \u00e0 Cap Canaille. Voici les compte-rendu de nos journ\u00e9es de grimpe.","rel":"","context":"Dans "Mes sorties - retours d'exp\u00e9rience"","block_context":{"text":"Mes sorties - retours d'exp\u00e9rience","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/mes-sorties\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"cap canaille stage escalade calanques","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/04\/canaille.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/04\/canaille.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/04\/canaille.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/04\/canaille.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":19085,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/ameliorer-recuperation-entrainement\/","url_meta":{"origin":4788,"position":3},"title":"Des pistes pour am\u00e9liorer sa r\u00e9cup\u00e9ration","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"4 mai 2020","format":false,"excerpt":"Cet ouvrage synth\u00e9tise les travaux d\u2019\u00e9tude sur diff\u00e9rents protocoles de r\u00e9cup\u00e9ration de l\u2019effort sportif. Cela passe par le sommeil, l\u2019hydratation, les \u00e9tirements, et \u00e9galement par des protocoles plus sp\u00e9cifiques.","rel":"","context":"Dans "Conseils entrainement escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Conseils entrainement escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/entrainement-escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"livre entrainement recuperation","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/04\/94397308_10158594609119101_610179995083472896_n-1.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/04\/94397308_10158594609119101_610179995083472896_n-1.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/04\/94397308_10158594609119101_610179995083472896_n-1.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x"},"classes":[]},{"id":4747,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/test-chaussons-hiangle-fiveten\/","url_meta":{"origin":4788,"position":4},"title":"Test chaussons Hiangle FiveTen","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"30 mars 2015","format":false,"excerpt":"Les chaussons Hiangle Fiveten (voir la fiche produit sur le site du fabricant) sont arriv\u00e9s en France au d\u00e9but de l\u2019automne 2014. J\u2019ai pu grimper avec la m\u00eame paire durant 7 mois sur mur, pan et falaise. Ils commencent \u00e0 \u00eatre trou\u00e9s, il est temps de partager avec vous mon\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures"","block_context":{"text":"Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/tests-materiel\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"test chausson escalade hiangle fiveten","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/caro_sinno_fiveten_hiangle-300x200.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":6382,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/datca-turquie\/","url_meta":{"origin":4788,"position":5},"title":"Grimpe \u00e0 Dat\u00e7a","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"9 octobre 2015","format":false,"excerpt":"Enfin je grimpe, je ne serre pas trop ces maudites colos, je coince un genou, je secoue les mains, je repars et \u00e7a avance sans forcer comme si je cherchais \u00e0 les d\u00e9coller du mur. Il fait beaucoup moins chaud, j'ai pas mal au dos, j'ai plus la cr\u00e8ve, je\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"escalade dat\u00e7a turquie","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/P1070260-225x300.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4788","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=4788"}],"version-history":[{"count":10,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4788\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":4799,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4788\/revisions\/4799"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=4788"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=4788"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=4788"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}