{"id":435,"date":"2014-03-12T09:46:48","date_gmt":"2014-03-12T08:46:48","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/?p=435"},"modified":"2014-03-12T10:09:18","modified_gmt":"2014-03-12T09:09:18","slug":"norme-uiaa-water-repellent","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/norme-uiaa-water-repellent\/","title":{"rendered":"New UIAA standard developed for water repellant ropesNorme UIAA WATER REPELLENT pour les cordes"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"UIAA<\/a><\/p>\n

A new standard for water repellent ropes<\/a> has been approved by the UIAA Safety Commission.
\nTo pass the test at a certified laboratory, the amount of absorbed water must not be greater than 5% of the rope\u2019s weight.<\/p>\n

Beal ropes<\/a> with Golden Dry treatment are the first to pass the exam, absorbing only 2% of their weight.
\nSo be carefull when choosing your next ice climbing or moutaineering rope!<\/p>\n

On the webshop we have 3 Beal ropes<\/> with Golden Dry treatment:
\n– Joker Unicore<\/a> 50 and 60 mtrs
\n– Iceline Unicore<\/a> 2×60 mtrs
\n– and of course the new Gully<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Contact us<\/a> if you need other items or need more informations.<\/p>\n

\"rope<\/a>\"UIAA<\/a><\/p>\n

Chaque fabricant propose certaines de ses cordes avec un traitement hydrophobe pour \u00e9viter qu’elles \u00ab\u00a0prennent l’eau\u00a0\u00bb, s’alourdissent, voir m\u00eame deviennent inutilisables lorsque \u00e7a reg\u00e8le. Ces cordes sont donc destin\u00e9es \u00e0 la pratique de l’alpinisme et de la cascade de glace. Ce sont des cordes haut de gamme avec un tarif g\u00e9n\u00e9ralement plus \u00e9lev\u00e9 en raison du traitement.
\nJusqu’\u00e0 pr\u00e9sent aucune norme ne permettait de connaitre et surtout comparer l’efficacit\u00e9 des divers traitements propos\u00e9s. L’UIAA vient d’instaurer la norme UIAA WATER REPELLENT<\/a> garantissant l’efficacit\u00e9 du traitement hydrophobe, et c’est une tr\u00e8s bonne chose.<\/p>\n

Voici un bref r\u00e9sum\u00e9 du test :
\n\u2022 Un \u00e9chantillon de corde est soumis \u00e0 une l\u00e9g\u00e8re abrasion sur toute
\nsa surface, \u00e9quivalente \u00e0 quelques jours d\u2019utilisation.
\n\u2022 Il est arros\u00e9 selon un protocole pr\u00e9cis pendant 15 minutes.
\n\u2022 La quantit\u00e9 d\u2019eau absorb\u00e9e ne doit pas d\u00e9passer 5% du poids de
\nl\u2019\u00e9chantillon.<\/p>\n

Les cordes Beal<\/a> sont les premi\u00e8res \u00e0 valider ce test gr\u00e2ce \u00e0 leur traitement Golden Dry<\/a>, avec moins de 2% absorption d’eau.
\nSur le magasin en ligne<\/a> nous vous proposons 3 cordes avec ce traitement:
\n– la Joker Unicore Golden Dry<\/a> en 50 et 60m
\n– le Ice Line Unicore Golden Dry<\/a> 2x60m
\n– et \u00e9videmment la nouvelle Gully<\/a> (test en cours).
\nD’autres cordes Beal<\/a> existent avec ce traitement, n’h\u00e9sitez pas \u00e0 me contacter pour passer commande ou d’autres pr\u00e9cisions.
\nEt surtout soyez vigilants dans vos prochains achats!<\/p>\n

\"corde<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

A new standard for water repellent ropes has been approved by the UIAA Safety Commission. To pass the test at<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"colormag_page_container_layout":"default_layout","colormag_page_sidebar_layout":"default_layout","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-435","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-news"],"yoast_head":"\nNew UIAA standard developed for water repellant ropesNorme UIAA WATER REPELLENT pour les cordes – L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\/moniteur escalade<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/norme-uiaa-water-repellent\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"New UIAA standard developed for water repellant ropesNorme UIAA WATER REPELLENT pour les cordes – L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\/moniteur escalade\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"A new standard for water repellent ropes has been approved by the UIAA Safety Commission. 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Pas contre une grande voie non plus. Mais on va \u00e0 C\u00e9\u00fcse, Fontainebleau, Buoux ou encore les Gorges du Verdon quand vous voulez.","sameAs":["http:\/\/www.grimpisme.com","https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/fredCaillouXvionnet","https:\/\/www.linkedin.com\/profile\/preview?vpa=pub&locale=fr_FR","https:\/\/fr.pinterest.com\/grimpisme\/","https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/user\/grimpisme","https:\/\/soundcloud.com\/fredvionnet"],"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/author\/fred\/"}]}},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p68Rw6-71","jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":4009,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/test-corde-gully-beal\/","url_meta":{"origin":435,"position":0},"title":"Test de la corde Gully Beal","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"27 novembre 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"Voil\u00e0 un peu plus d'un an que la corde Gully B\u00e9al est sortie et que nous l'utilisons. Le recul est maintenant suffisant pour publier un test apr\u00e8s une utilisation r\u00e9guli\u00e8re (voir la liste des courses effectu\u00e9es avec la Gully plus bas). Et oui chez Grimpisme on ne teste pas le\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures"","block_context":{"text":"Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/tests-materiel\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"test_corde_gully_beal (2)","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/test_corde_gully_beal-2-300x225.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":2196,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/nouveautes-snap-beal\/","url_meta":{"origin":435,"position":1},"title":"BEAL and SNAP new stuffNouveaut\u00e9s SNAP et BEAL","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"15 juin 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"Snap rope Tarp. SuperTanker chalkbag SNAP. Instinct harness Beal. La b\u00e2che SNAP, toute simple et pas ch\u00e8re. Le sac \u00e0 magn\u00e9sie SuperTanker qui peut s'utiliser comme une chalkball. Le nouveau baudrier Instinct Beal.","rel":"","context":"Dans "News et actu"","block_context":{"text":"News et actu","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/news\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"bache corde escalade snap","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/06\/P1040709-300x225.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":732,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/beal-nouveautes-2014\/","url_meta":{"origin":435,"position":2},"title":"Beal 2014 new stuffBeal nouveaut\u00e9s 2014","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"25 mars 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"Beal sent me new stuff I have to test soon... hard life! In the web shop, only Mirage harness is available for the moment. The rest is coming soon. Beal m'a envoy\u00e9 pas mal de mat\u00e9riel 2014 \u00e0 tester en falaise ce printemps. Impatient... Pour le shop cela va arriver\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "News et actu"","block_context":{"text":"News et actu","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/news\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"beal rock climbing gear 2014","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/P1030394-300x225.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":3430,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/corde-beal-opera\/","url_meta":{"origin":435,"position":3},"title":"New Beal Opera ropeNouvelle corde Beal Opera 8.5","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"24 septembre 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"The new 8.5 Beal Opera rope, only 48 grammes per meter, the lightest single rope, is available on the webshop! We had chance to get an Opera for personnal use 3 weeks ago. It looks very resistant and Grigri\u00b2 works perfectly with it. Final test will come in several weeks\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"corde escalade beal","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/09\/P1150670-194x300.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":1854,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/nouvelles-degaines-be-free-beal\/","url_meta":{"origin":435,"position":4},"title":"New quickdraws Be Free BealNouvelles d\u00e9gaines Be Free Beal","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"19 mai 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"Beal sent me for testing the new Be free quickdraws. The main innovation is in the Be One carabiner and its geometrical features influencing the rope's performance. Here are a few photos of Sam in his first 7c+ in Fressini\u00e8res (first try), Jack in a nice 6b at the same\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"nouvelle degaine be free beal","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/P1040188.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/P1040188.jpg?resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/P1040188.jpg?resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/P1040188.jpg?resize=700%2C400 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":7562,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/nouveau-baudrier-phantom-beal\/","url_meta":{"origin":435,"position":5},"title":"Nouveau baudrier Phantom Beal","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"7 f\u00e9vrier 2016","format":false,"excerpt":"J'ai la chance de grimper depuis quelques semaines d\u00e9j\u00e0 avec le nouveau baudrier Phantom Beal (et pas Fantom, la r\u00e9forme de l'orthographe n'est pas encore pass\u00e9e par l\u00e0, on se d\u00e9tend...). Ce harnais est particuli\u00e8rement d\u00e9di\u00e9 \u00e0 la grimpe sportive (voir la fiche technique). Confort, aisance dans les mouvements, l\u00e9g\u00e8ret\u00e9\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"baudrier escalade phantom beal","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/02\/P1080179-300x225.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/435","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=435"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/435\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":445,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/435\/revisions\/445"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=435"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=435"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=435"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}