{"id":4009,"date":"2014-11-27T10:37:06","date_gmt":"2014-11-27T09:37:06","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/?p=4009"},"modified":"2014-11-27T15:10:56","modified_gmt":"2014-11-27T14:10:56","slug":"test-corde-gully-beal","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/test-corde-gully-beal\/","title":{"rendered":"Test de la corde Gully Beal"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"test_corde_gully_beal<\/a><\/p>\n

Voil\u00e0 un peu plus d’un an que la corde Gully B\u00e9al est sortie et que nous l’utilisons. Le recul est maintenant suffisant pour publier un test apr\u00e8s une utilisation r\u00e9guli\u00e8re (voir la liste des courses effectu\u00e9es avec la Gully plus bas). Et oui chez Grimpisme on ne teste pas le matos sur 2 jours comme chez les concurrents !<\/strong><\/p>\n

Selon son fabricant, \u00ab avec seulement 36 g au m\u00e8tre, la GULLY 7.3 est la corde \u00e0 double la plus l\u00e9g\u00e8re du march\u00e9. Elle est \u00e9galement certifi\u00e9e comme corde jumel\u00e9e. Son extr\u00eame l\u00e9g\u00e8ret\u00e9 et sa force de choc tr\u00e8s basse font de la GULLY 7.3 la corde incontournable pour la glace, l’alpinisme et les terrains d’aventure les plus exigeants. Comme toutes les cordes \u00e0 double fines de la gamme BEAL, la GULLY 7.3 b\u00e9n\u00e9ficie de la technologie Unicore et du surcro\u00eet de s\u00e9curit\u00e9 qu’elle apporte.\u00bb C’est donc une corde extr\u00eamement fluide et l\u00e9g\u00e8re, qui b\u00e9n\u00e9ficie du traitement hydrophobe Golden Dry.<\/p>\n

Je propose donc cette corde \u00e0 la vente depuis 1 ann\u00e9e environ (voir la fiche technique sur le magasin en ligne<\/a>) et je n’ai eu pour le moment qu’un seul retour d’un client guide m\u00e9content, la trouvant fragile et reprochant le manque de durabilit\u00e9 du traitement Golden Dry. Voici nos impressions, compl\u00e9t\u00e9es par celles des copains et des clients de Grimpisme.<\/p>\n

Les plus : <\/u>
\nSans aucuns doutes la l\u00e9g\u00e8ret\u00e9 et la fluidit\u00e9 pour l’assurage, les mousquetonnages et le portage<\/strong> dans le sac.<\/p>\n

Pour l’assurage : <\/u>
\nAvec un Piu\u20192, un ATC Guide ou un Reverso pas de soucis pour assurer un premier ou un (ou 2) second de cord\u00e9e.
\nPour la descente en rappel par contre il vaut mieux avoir le descendeur en bout de longe et l\u2019auto-bloquant en dessous<\/strong>, sinon la corde file vite et sans gants \u00e7a chauffe. Le Master pro de Grivel peut \u00eatre une bonne solution avec ses diff\u00e9rentes options de freinage (voir la fiche technique<\/a>).<\/p>\n

Les moins : <\/u>
\nUne petite fragilit\u00e9 de la gaine est \u00e0 signaler (voir photo ci-dessous) mais de mon exp\u00e9rience, avec la technologie Unicore d\u00e9ja test\u00e9e sur les Diablo et la Joker, une gaine dans cet \u00e9tat tient encore la route un bon moment<\/strong>. Il faut dire aussi que nous avons beaucoup utilis\u00e9 la Gully dans des conditions \u00ab rustiques \u00bb, c’est \u00e0 dire en progression \u00e0 corde tendu sur du terrain montagne, sur des ar\u00eates, en la passant derri\u00e8re des becquets avec du granit bien rugueux et anguleux.
\nD’ailleurs dans ce type de terrain o\u00f9 nous utilisions souvent un brin de 60 m\u00e8tres \u00e0 double, ce serait pratique que le milieu des brins soit marqu\u00e9. Il est vrai qu’on peut le faire soi-m\u00eame avec un marqueur de corde (voir la fiche technique<\/a>).<\/p>\n

\"corde<\/a><\/p>\n

En conclusion : <\/u>
\nLa Gully est une corde haut de gamme tr\u00e8s agr\u00e9able pour assurer, grimper… et le portage aussi ! Sa fluidit\u00e9 et sa l\u00e9g\u00e8ret\u00e9 sont incomparables et vous les appr\u00e9cierez sans aucuns doutes. Sa r\u00e9sistance \u00e0 l\u2019usure est tr\u00e8s bonne malgr\u00e9 son petit diam\u00e8tre et l\u2019assurage n\u2019est finalement pas plus d\u00e9licat qu\u2019avec une corde du type Iceline. Pour une utilisation typ\u00e9e montagne et les petits budgets je conseille tout de m\u00eame la Cobra.
\n<\/strong><\/p>\n

Liste des courses r\u00e9alis\u00e9es avec notre corde Gully 2x60m (j’en ai peut \u00eatre oubli\u00e9es) :<\/u>
\n\u2013\tla Martine, Ponteil, Hautes Alpes (voir le compte rendu<\/a>)
\n\u2013\tWoody Wood Pecker, Sappey, 74 (voir le compte rendu<\/a>)
\n\u2013\tA Capella, Sappey, 74 (voir le compte rendu<\/a>)
\n\u2013\tBr\u00e8che Puiseux, massif du Mont Blanc, Chamonix (voir le compte rendu<\/a>)
\n\u2013\tPilier SW des Petits Charmoz, massif du Mont Blanc, Chamonix (voir le compte rendu<\/a>)
\n\u2013\tVoie Maryl\u00e8ne, pointe Lachenal, massif du Mont Blanc, Chamonix (voir le compte rendu<\/a>)
\n\u2013\tTravers\u00e9e des Ecandies, Val d’Arpette, massif du Mont Blanc (voir le compte rendu<\/a>)
\n\u2013\tPlaisirs d’Automne, Val d’Arpette, massif du Mont Blanc (voir le compte rendu<\/a>)
\n\u2013\tSquatter de Lune-travers\u00e9e des Perrons, Vallorcine, 74 (voir le compte rendu<\/a>)
\n\u2013\tBrandy, pointe Lachenal, massif du Mont Blanc, Chamonix (voir le compte rendu<\/a>)
\n\u2013\tIndiana Jaune, Maladi\u00e8re, Haute Savoie (voir le compte rendu<\/a>)
\n\u2013\tDent du F\u00e9nestral, Emosson, Suisse (voir le compte rendu<\/a>)
\n\u2013\tDid au couloir Whymper \u00e0 l’Aiguille Verte, massif du Mont Blanc, Chamonix
\n\u2013\tGuigui pour 2 sorties de goulotte \u00e0 Ch\u00e2teau Renard, Queyras, Hautes Alpes
\n\u2013\tGuigui et R\u00e9mi pour 2 jours de goulotte versant nord Roche Faurio.<\/p>\n

ngg_shortcode_0_placeholder<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Voil\u00e0 un peu plus d’un an que la corde Gully B\u00e9al est sortie et que nous l’utilisons. Le recul est<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"colormag_page_container_layout":"default_layout","colormag_page_sidebar_layout":"default_layout","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[3],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-4009","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-tests-materiel"],"yoast_head":"\nTest de la corde Gully Beal – L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\/moniteur escalade<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/test-corde-gully-beal\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Test de la corde Gully Beal – L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\/moniteur escalade\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Voil\u00e0 un peu plus d’un an que la corde Gully B\u00e9al est sortie et que nous l’utilisons. 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To pass the test at a certified laboratory, the amount of absorbed water must not be greater than 5% of the rope\u2019s weight. Beal ropes with Golden Dry treatment are the first to pass the\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "News et actu"","block_context":{"text":"News et actu","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/news\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"UIAA WATER REPELLENT rope test","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/03\/cp_beal_uiaa_water_repellent_lr.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":11607,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/test-corde-beal-diablo\/","url_meta":{"origin":4009,"position":1},"title":"Test corde Beal DIABLO","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"14 septembre 2011","format":false,"excerpt":"Voil\u00e0 enfin le test de la nouvelle corde Diablo de B\u00e9al. J'aurais aim\u00e9 le sortir plus t\u00f4t mais le temps pour grimper et tester convenablement m'a manqu\u00e9 derni\u00e8rement. Le proc\u00e9d\u00e9 Unicore est appliqu\u00e9 \u00e0 cette corde, alors qu'il \u00e9tait jusqu'\u00e0 pr\u00e9sent r\u00e9serv\u00e9 aux cordes semi-statiques. L'\u00e2me et la gaine restent\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures"","block_context":{"text":"Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/tests-materiel\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]},{"id":11671,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/test-corde-joker-unicore-beal\/","url_meta":{"origin":4009,"position":2},"title":"Test corde Joker Unicore Beal","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"11 juin 2013","format":false,"excerpt":"Je grimpe avec la nouvelle corde Joker Beal depuis f\u00e9vrier dernier, lors de ma petite semaine autour de Siurana avec Ben Moon and co. Cette nouvelle version de la Joker b\u00e9n\u00e9ficie d\u00e9sormais de la technologie Unicore, que j\u2019avais d\u00e9j\u00e0 pu essayer et appr\u00e9cier sur la corde Diablo (voir le test).\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures"","block_context":{"text":"Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/tests-materiel\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"corde escalade joker beal unicore","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/blog-v1\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/06\/test_joker-300x168.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":2285,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/a-capella-sapey\/","url_meta":{"origin":4009,"position":3},"title":"A Capella, SapeyA Capella, Sapey","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"23 juin 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"A Capella, a very nice slaby route on Pointe de Dran, Sapey. Dimanche apr\u00e8s-midi nous sommes mont\u00e9s faire A Capella \u00e0 la Pointe de Dran (Sappey). On a commenc\u00e9 \u00e0 grimper vers 14h, il faisait bien chaud pour la marche d'approche mais c'\u00e9tait supportable pour la grimpe. N\u00e9anmoins partir 2h\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"P1040796","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/06\/P1040796-225x300.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":3430,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/corde-beal-opera\/","url_meta":{"origin":4009,"position":4},"title":"New Beal Opera ropeNouvelle corde Beal Opera 8.5","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"24 septembre 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"The new 8.5 Beal Opera rope, only 48 grammes per meter, the lightest single rope, is available on the webshop! We had chance to get an Opera for personnal use 3 weeks ago. It looks very resistant and Grigri\u00b2 works perfectly with it. Final test will come in several weeks\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"corde escalade beal","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/09\/P1150670-194x300.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":11685,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/martine-ponteil\/","url_meta":{"origin":4009,"position":5},"title":"La Martine juste avant la neige, Ponteil","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"10 novembre 2013","format":false,"excerpt":"Nous avons profit\u00e9 des quelques heures de r\u00e9pit entre 2 perturbations et l'arriv\u00e9e de la neige pour une rapide ascension de la Martine au Ponteil. Jolie voie de 5 longueurs, c'est donc rapidement envoy\u00e9, surtout que la descente en 2 rappels est efficace. 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