{"id":3301,"date":"2014-09-10T15:15:51","date_gmt":"2014-09-10T14:15:51","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/?p=3301"},"modified":"2016-03-29T13:56:24","modified_gmt":"2016-03-29T12:56:24","slug":"nouvelle-voie-cascade-arpenaz-gland-bleu","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/nouvelle-voie-cascade-arpenaz-gland-bleu\/","title":{"rendered":"Nouvelle voie \u00e0 la cascade de l’Arpenaz"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"gland<\/a><\/p>\n

Herv\u00e9 Bouvard et Benjamin Maire ont ouvert du bas en juin et juillet 2014 \u00ab\u00a0Le Gland Bleu\u00a0\u00bb (170m\/7C+ max \/6C Oblig) \u00e0 la falaise de la cascade de l’Arpenaz<\/strong>.
\nSelon Benjamin: \u00ab\u00a0C’est vraiment une belle voie raide avec de l’ambiance sur un rocher compact avec beaucoup de plats, la lecture n’est pas \u00e9vidente. Le rocher est encore un peu sale mais encore quelques passages et ce sera nickel. La premi\u00e8re longueur est la plus dure avec 2 crux sur des plats en \u00e9paule. Les longueurs suivantes sont moins dures mais restent soutenues.\u00a0\u00bb<\/strong>
\nToutes les longueurs ont \u00e9t\u00e9 encha\u00een\u00e9es par les ouvreurs.
\nLes quelques personnes ayant essay\u00e9es la voie semblent d\u2019accord avec les cotations.<\/p>\n

Acc\u00e8s :<\/strong><\/u>
\nDe Sallanches :<\/u>
\nPrendre la route des lacs des Illettes, continuer tout droit apr\u00e8s le troisi\u00e8me lac en direction de la cascade d\u2019Arpennaz (Passer \u00e0 Luzier). Ne pas se garer au parking de la cascade mais continuer tout droit, passer un premier pont, continuer environ 500m et prendre \u00e0 droite juste avant le deuxi\u00e8me pont.
\nSe garer 200m plus haut (fin de la route).
\nDe Cluses :<\/u>
\nPrendre la nationale en direction de Sallanches, passer Magland, continuer direction Sallanches, 300m apr\u00e8s le radar fixe au niveau d\u2019Oex tourner \u00e0 gauche (juste apr\u00e8s le restaurant chez l\u2019Arlette), puis premi\u00e8re \u00e0 droite en direction de Luzier et des lacs des Illettes.
\nFaire environ 1 km et prendre la premi\u00e8re route \u00e0 gauche apr\u00e8s le premier pont.
\nSe garer 200m plus haut (fin de la route).
\n Approche :<\/u><\/strong>
\nContinuer sur le large sentier droit au-dessus du parking, puis environ 300 m apr\u00e8s le premier grand virage \u00e0 gauche prendre une sente (peu marqu\u00e9e, petit kairn) qui part en travers\u00e9e ascendante sur la droite.
\nSuivre la sente jusqu\u2019\u00e0 une vieille ruine, surplombant une grande barre rocheuse.
\nLonger la barre rocheuse (vague sente) jusqu\u2019\u00e0 une petite descente, situ\u00e9 en contrebas d\u2019une petite barre rocheuse qui surplombe le chemin.
\nDescendre vingt m\u00e8tres, prendre \u00e0 gauche une petite sente et traverser un petit couloir qui donne acc\u00e8s aux pentes raides menant au pied de la voie. Remonter au mieux.
\nDescente :<\/u><\/strong>
\nLa descente en rappel est possible mais mal commode, relais d\u00e9sax\u00e9, devers marqu\u00e9 et obligation de recliper quelques points.
\nIl vaut mieux descendre \u00e0 pied : en 45 min \/1 h, on rejoint la voiture avec deux rappels d\u2019environ 25 \/30 m\u00e8tres.
\nDu dernier relais, monter au mieux dans la foret, puis traverser \u00e0 gauche (on longe une barre en travers\u00e9e) vague sente peu marqu\u00e9e, jusqu\u2019\u00e0 venir buter sur un couloir raide d\u2019herbe et de pierre.
\nRester en bordure de for\u00eat dans les arbres (bonnes baskets conseill\u00e9es) et descendre en tirant \u00e0 droite pour retrouver un des arbres les plus bas \u00e0 droite (sangle en place)
\nFaire un rappel pour rejoindre un arbre isol\u00e9 20 m plus bas, encore un peu \u00e0 droite. De l\u2019arbre un dernier rappel nous emm\u00e8ne dans la for\u00eat, descendre droit (pas de sente, terrain raide) jusqu\u2019\u00e0 retrouver le chemin d\u2019approche, 200 m \u00e0 gauche de la ruine.
\nMat\u00e9riel :<\/u><\/strong>
\n14 d\u00e9gaines, casque conseill\u00e9, sac de hissage. Important : des sangles pour g\u00e9rer au mieux le tirage dans L3 (une corde \u00e0 double peut \u00eatre une solution pour la gestion du tirage), une bonne paire de baskets. <\/strong><\/p>\n

<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Herv\u00e9 Bouvard et Benjamin Maire ont ouvert du bas en juin et juillet 2014 \u00ab\u00a0Le Gland Bleu\u00a0\u00bb (170m\/7C+ max \/6C<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"colormag_page_container_layout":"default_layout","colormag_page_sidebar_layout":"default_layout","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[4,1,13],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3301","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-escalade","category-news","category-topos"],"yoast_head":"\nNouvelle voie \u00e0 la cascade de l'Arpenaz – L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - 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Mais on va \u00e0 C\u00e9\u00fcse, Fontainebleau, Buoux ou encore les Gorges du Verdon quand vous voulez.","sameAs":["http:\/\/www.grimpisme.com","https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/fredCaillouXvionnet","https:\/\/www.linkedin.com\/profile\/preview?vpa=pub&locale=fr_FR","https:\/\/fr.pinterest.com\/grimpisme\/","https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/user\/grimpisme","https:\/\/soundcloud.com\/fredvionnet"],"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/author\/fred\/"}]}},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p68Rw6-Rf","jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":16090,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/cap-canaille-calanques-stage-escalade\/","url_meta":{"origin":3301,"position":0},"title":"Cap Canaille, Calanques et Venasque, avril 2018","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"3 mai 2018","format":false,"excerpt":"Apr\u00e8s les premi\u00e8res aventures de l\u2019ann\u00e9e derni\u00e8re au Sal\u00e8ve, \u00e0 la dalle du Tuet ou encore \u00e0 Orpierre, nous sommes partis pour 5 jours dans les Calanques et \u00e0 Cap Canaille. Voici les compte-rendu de nos journ\u00e9es de grimpe.","rel":"","context":"Dans "Mes sorties - retours d'exp\u00e9rience"","block_context":{"text":"Mes sorties - retours d'exp\u00e9rience","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/mes-sorties\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"cap canaille stage escalade calanques","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/04\/canaille.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/04\/canaille.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/04\/canaille.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/04\/canaille.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":3100,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/15-longueurs-plaisirs-automne-six-carro\/","url_meta":{"origin":3301,"position":1},"title":"15 pitches on \u00ab\u00a0Plaisirs d’Automne\u00a0\u00bb15 longueurs de Plaisirs d’Automne","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"25 ao\u00fbt 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"15 beautiful pitches on \"Les Plaisirs d'Automne\" (300m, TD). Apr\u00e8s le super journ\u00e9e de dimanche dernier aux Ecandies, nous sommes revenus dans le vallon d'Arpette pour \"Les Plaisirs d'Automne\" (300m, TD), une voie que nous avait conseill\u00e9 un sympathique grimpeur helv\u00e8te lors de la pause au sommet. Pour gagner du\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"plaisirs automne six carro","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/P1050121-2-300x225.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":16849,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/dalle-rosiere-voie-capricorne\/","url_meta":{"origin":3301,"position":2},"title":"Dalle de la Rosi\u00e8re, voie Capricorne","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"16 septembre 2018","format":false,"excerpt":"Quel bonheur que de d\u00e9couvrir enfin cette dalle de la Rosi\u00e8re, une falaise qui \u00e9tait pourtant \u00e0 la mode lors des mes d\u00e9but en escalade, et qui l'est depuis beaucoup moins. La qualit\u00e9 du rocher est exceptionnelle dans toutes les longueurs, avec des cannelures, parfois tr\u00e8s sculpt\u00e9es, parfois moins... des\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"escalade dalle rosiere","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/P1120503.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/P1120503.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/P1120503.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/P1120503.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/P1120503.jpg?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":15154,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/dalle-tuet-voie-lactee\/","url_meta":{"origin":3301,"position":3},"title":"Dalle du Tuet, la \u00ab\u00a0Voie lact\u00e9e\u00a0\u00bb","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"8 octobre 2017","format":false,"excerpt":"Nous continuons notre apprentissage de la grande voie avec les jeunes du \"Groupe Grandes voies\" du CAF 74. 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Cette fois ci le contexte est diff\u00e9rent. Si en 1999 j\u2019\u00e9tais venu avec un copain quelques jours apr\u00e8s avoir fini mon BE, cette fois je suis avec Corine et Patrick qui m\u2019ont engag\u00e9 pour 5 jours de grimpe.","rel":"","context":"Dans "Escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"escalade climbng wadi rum","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/11\/wadi-rum.jpeg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/11\/wadi-rum.jpeg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/11\/wadi-rum.jpeg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/11\/wadi-rum.jpeg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":15053,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/rabbia-nouvelle-voie-chartreuse\/","url_meta":{"origin":3301,"position":5},"title":"\u00ab\u00a0La Rabbia\u00a0\u00bb, nouvelle voie en Chartreuse","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"18 septembre 2017","format":false,"excerpt":"Marc Malvoti nous offre encore une nouvelle voie en Chartreuse, avec cette fois-ci \"la Rabbia\", toujours sur les Pitons de Rocheplane.","rel":"","context":"Dans "Escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"rabia nouvelle voie escalade chartreuse","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/rabia.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/rabia.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/rabia.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x"},"classes":[]}],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3301","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3301"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3301\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":3307,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3301\/revisions\/3307"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3301"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3301"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3301"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}