{"id":3195,"date":"2014-09-03T14:51:22","date_gmt":"2014-09-03T13:51:22","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/?p=3195"},"modified":"2014-09-03T16:28:12","modified_gmt":"2014-09-03T15:28:12","slug":"squatteur-lune-traversee-perrons","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/squatteur-lune-traversee-perrons\/","title":{"rendered":"Squatteur de Lune + Perrons traverseSquatteur de Lune + travers\u00e9e des Perrons"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"traversee<\/a><\/p>\n

Fantastic and long day climbing \u00ab\u00a0Squatteur de Lune\u00a0\u00bb (370m, TD+)<\/a> and finishing with travers\u00e9e des Perrons. It was definitly worth climbing \u00ab\u00a0Squatteur\u00a0\u00bb with heavy backpacks.<\/p>\n

ngg_shortcode_0_placeholder\"traversee<\/a><\/p>\n

Voil\u00e0 l’\u00e9t\u00e9 indien est arriv\u00e9 apr\u00e8s un weekend particuli\u00e8rement arros\u00e9 pour nous (pourtant il a peu plus effectivement…). Rien de tel qu’une tr\u00e8s longue journ\u00e9e m\u00ealant marche, grimpe et alpinisme pour drainer le foie, c’est bien meilleur que le radis noir!
\nNous sommes mont\u00e9s dormir au barrage d’Emosson lundi soir pour profiter d’un superbe coucher de soleil sur le massif du Mont Blanc. Le lendemain matin on a commenc\u00e9 par la magnifique voie \u00ab\u00a0Squatteur de Lune\u00a0\u00bb aux Perrons<\/a>, ouverte (entre autre) par un vieux pote guide, Reynald Bourdier (www.flowride.fr<\/a>). Quand je dis vieux, c’est \u00e9videmment plus par rapport \u00e0 son \u00e2ge qu’\u00e0 la long\u00e9vit\u00e9 de notre amiti\u00e9.
\nCette voie vaut vraiment le d\u00e9tour, plus tu montes plus c’est raide, surtout l’avant derni\u00e8re longueur que j’ai trouv\u00e9e dure pour du 6b, avec un mouvement pas facile dans une fissure un peu large et \u00e9vas\u00e9e pour peu de prises de pied gauche. Selon moi toutes les longueurs sont belles, sur un gneiss pas forc\u00e9ment facile \u00e0 d\u00e9chiffrer. C’est pas du calcaire, c’est pas du granit, il faut trouver les prises et le sens dans lequel tirer dessus, bien ouvrir les yeux pour trouver le prochain spit qui peut \u00eatre un peu loin parfois.
\nNormalement la voie se descend en rappel. On s’est pourtant compliqu\u00e9 la vie en grimpant avec nos sacs soit 2-3 Camalots, les chaussures d’approche, les b\u00e2tons t\u00e9lescopiques, toute la bouffe et compagnie. Ca nous a tir\u00e9 sur les bras mais du sommet de la Pointe Vouilloz ont a ensuite encap\u00e9 sur la fin de la travers\u00e9e des Perrons (vers l’Est). Cette course d’alpinisme classique est vraiment hyper esth\u00e9tique. Certains passages sont tr\u00e8s a\u00e9riens, sur du bon caillou, dans une ambiance de fin de journ\u00e9e terrible avec les gnoles nous tournant autour. Un grand moment de montagne, m\u00eame si j’ai peu fait de photos car il ne fallait pas s’endormir pour une descente bien sauvage entre terrain \u00e0 chamois et pierriers avant de tomber enfin sur un vrai chemin de randonn\u00e9e \u00e0 la nuit noire. J’adore me promener, libre, de nuit \u00e0 la frontale dans des coins paum\u00e9s comme \u00e7a. Rien \u00e0 faire d’arriver tard \u00e0 la voiture, bien rinc\u00e9, sachant que le journ\u00e9e de boulot du lendemain va \u00eatre longue.<\/p>\n

ngg_shortcode_1_placeholder<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Fantastic and long day climbing \u00ab\u00a0Squatteur de Lune\u00a0\u00bb (370m, TD+) and finishing with travers\u00e9e des Perrons. It was definitly worth<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"colormag_page_container_layout":"default_layout","colormag_page_sidebar_layout":"default_layout","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[5,4],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3195","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-alpinisme","category-escalade"],"yoast_head":"\nSquatteur de Lune + Perrons traverseSquatteur de Lune + travers\u00e9e des Perrons – L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\/moniteur escalade<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/squatteur-lune-traversee-perrons\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Squatteur de Lune + Perrons traverseSquatteur de Lune + travers\u00e9e des Perrons – L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\/moniteur escalade\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Fantastic and long day climbing \u00ab\u00a0Squatteur de Lune\u00a0\u00bb (370m, TD+) and finishing with travers\u00e9e des Perrons. 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Pas contre une grande voie non plus. Mais on va \u00e0 C\u00e9\u00fcse, Fontainebleau, Buoux ou encore les Gorges du Verdon quand vous voulez.","sameAs":["http:\/\/www.grimpisme.com","https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/fredCaillouXvionnet","https:\/\/www.linkedin.com\/profile\/preview?vpa=pub&locale=fr_FR","https:\/\/fr.pinterest.com\/grimpisme\/","https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/user\/grimpisme","https:\/\/soundcloud.com\/fredvionnet"],"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/author\/fred\/"}]}},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p68Rw6-Px","jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":3582,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/test-chaussures-salomon-x-alp-crampons-g1-grivel\/","url_meta":{"origin":3195,"position":0},"title":"Test chaussures Salomon X-Alp + crampons G1 Grivel","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"9 octobre 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"C\u2019est vrai qu\u2019il y a peu de temps je fustigeais les tests mat\u00e9riels faits \u00e0 la vite sur le web. Dans cet article je vous propose pourtant un test des nouvelles chaussures Salomon X-Alp que je ne n\u2019utilise que depuis la fin ao\u00fbt (voir plus bas la liste des sorties\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"chaussure xalp salomon","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/10\/P1050252-2-300x200.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":5181,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/video-traversee-cerro-standhardt-cerro-torre\/","url_meta":{"origin":3195,"position":1},"title":"Vid\u00e9o: tentative sur la travers\u00e9e Cerro Standhardt-Cerro Torre par Thomas Huber","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"13 mai 2015","format":false,"excerpt":"Thomas Huber tente une nouvelle fois la travers\u00e9e du Cerro Standhardt au Cerro Torre avec Andi Schnarf et Tommy Aguilo, pour \u00e9chouer une nouvelle fois \u00e0 cause des conditions m\u00e9t\u00e9orologiques. Comme quoi la technologie ne r\u00e8gle pas tous les probl\u00e8mes, ouf! Cette travers\u00e9e a \u00e9t\u00e9 r\u00e9ussie pour la premi\u00e8re fois\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Alpinisme"","block_context":{"text":"Alpinisme","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/alpinisme\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]},{"id":5274,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/pointe-terrasse-ski-salomon-mtn\/","url_meta":{"origin":3195,"position":2},"title":"Cure-dents et fourchettes \u00e0 fondue en Terrasse","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"25 mai 2015","format":false,"excerpt":"La saison de ski de rando en moyenne montagne finit sa sordide agonie qui aurait dur\u00e9 plus longtemps que pr\u00e9vu gr\u00e2ce au retour du froid sur le mois de mai. Ca passe encore \u00e0 la Pointe de la Terrasse par Emosson mais il faut d\u00e9chausser deux fois sur le bas\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Ski de rando et freeride"","block_context":{"text":"Ski de rando et freeride","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/ski-freeride\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Qui se cache dans la Br\u00e8che des Perrons?","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/P1060599-300x225.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":12561,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/nouveau-topo-piola-aiguilles-rouges-2\/","url_meta":{"origin":3195,"position":3},"title":"Nouveau topo Piola: The Aiguilles Rouges 2","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"16 ao\u00fbt 2016","format":false,"excerpt":"Michel Piola vient de sortir la version anglaise de son topo d'escalade sur les Aiguilles Rouges et la vall\u00e9e de l'Eau Noire (Mesure, Praz Torrent, Vallon de B\u00e9rard, Tr\u00e9 Les Eaux, Perrons de Vallorcine, Barberine, ...). Mais comme l'explique Michel, il s'agit bien plus qu'une simple traduction de la version\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Coups de gueule"","block_context":{"text":"Coups de gueule","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/coup-de-gueule\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/piola1.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":4009,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/test-corde-gully-beal\/","url_meta":{"origin":3195,"position":4},"title":"Test de la corde Gully Beal","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"27 novembre 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"Voil\u00e0 un peu plus d'un an que la corde Gully B\u00e9al est sortie et que nous l'utilisons. Le recul est maintenant suffisant pour publier un test apr\u00e8s une utilisation r\u00e9guli\u00e8re (voir la liste des courses effectu\u00e9es avec la Gully plus bas). Et oui chez Grimpisme on ne teste pas le\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures"","block_context":{"text":"Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/tests-materiel\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"test_corde_gully_beal (2)","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/test_corde_gully_beal-2-300x225.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":16562,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/traversee-nonne\/","url_meta":{"origin":3195,"position":5},"title":"Travers\u00e9e de la Nonne, alpinisme massif du Mont Blanc","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"5 ao\u00fbt 2018","format":false,"excerpt":"Je vous conseille cette course, le granit est magnifique, que ce soit pour monter \u00e0 la Nonne ou pour ensuite traverser le mythique rasoir: une ar\u00eate en 3b, compacte et a\u00e9rienne, un moment de grimpisme rare et jouissif avec le bassin de de Tal\u00e8fre en toile de fond.","rel":"","context":"Dans "Alpinisme"","block_context":{"text":"Alpinisme","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/alpinisme\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"traversee nonne mont blanc","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/P1120375.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/P1120375.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/P1120375.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/P1120375.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/P1120375.jpg?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/P1120375.jpg?resize=1400%2C800&ssl=1 4x"},"classes":[]}],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3195","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3195"}],"version-history":[{"count":15,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3195\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":3245,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3195\/revisions\/3245"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3195"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3195"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3195"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}