{"id":27024,"date":"2025-03-28T14:29:02","date_gmt":"2025-03-28T13:29:02","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/?p=27024"},"modified":"2025-06-02T09:13:09","modified_gmt":"2025-06-02T07:13:09","slug":"preparation-physique-escalade-junk-volume","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/preparation-physique-escalade-junk-volume\/","title":{"rendered":"Pr\u00e9paration physique escalade : quand faire du \u201cjunk volume\u201d?"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>L\u2019id\u00e9e de cet article m\u2019est venue apr\u00e8s avoir \u00e9cout\u00e9 cet excellent podcast du coll\u00e8gue <a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/leo_pasek\/\">Leo Pasek<\/a>. Le voici ci-dessous. Si la pr\u00e9paration physique escalade vous int\u00e9resse, je vous conseille vivement de l\u2019\u00e9couter. <strong>Leo parle de charge d\u2019entrainement, de surentrainement, et \u00e9galement de \u201cjunk volume\u201d. Et c\u2019est sur ce dernier terme que je vais revenir dans cet article.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"YouTube video player\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/pqaqbJQMZP4?si=DEPK0Ybi3A3l4FUX\" width=\"560\" height=\"315\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p>Comme le dit L\u00e9o, <strong>le junk volume est contre-productif. Par contre, il ne pause pas de probl\u00e8me s\u2019il est ponctuel. Je dirais m\u00eame qu\u2019il est b\u00e9n\u00e9fique d\u2019en faire r\u00e9guli\u00e8rement de mani\u00e8re r\u00e9fl\u00e9chie.<\/strong> Avant de r\u00e9pondre aux questions \u201cquand&nbsp; ?\u201d et \u201cpourquoi ?\u201d, revenons sur la d\u00e9finition de ce terme.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h4><u>Que ce que le \u201cjunk volume\u201d ?<\/u><\/h4>\n<p>La plupart des coachs d&rsquo;escalade actuels ont une approche moderne de l\u2019entra\u00eenement (sinon m\u00e9fies toi &#8230;). L\u2019un des piliers de cette modernit\u00e9 est de <strong>rechercher la progression tout en \u00e9vitant un maximum l\u2019accumulation de fatigue. Cette derni\u00e8re est dangereuse (blessures, surentra\u00eenement, d\u00e9motivation) et ne convient vraiment pas \u00e0 tout le monde<\/strong> (voir <a href=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/entrainement-fatigue\/\">cet article<\/a>).<br \/>\n<strong>Eviter l\u2019accumulation de fatigue entre les s\u00e9ances est le graal d\u2019une programmation d\u2019entra\u00eenement r\u00e9ussie. Les progr\u00e8s n\u2019en seront que plus marqu\u00e9s apr\u00e8s une p\u00e9riode de d\u00e9charge et\/ou d\u2019affutage. Cela passe en premier lieu par des s\u00e9ances dont la charge d\u2019entra\u00eenement (la dur\u00e9e multipli\u00e9e par l\u2019intensit\u00e9 ressentie, ou RPE) est optimale. Et pour cela il faut savoir s\u2019arr\u00eater, parfois avant que la s\u00e9ance ne soit compl\u00e8te, lorsque l\u2019on ne parvient plus \u00e0 maintenir l\u2019intensit\u00e9 pr\u00e9vue.<\/strong> Que ce soit en bloc ou en voie. <br \/>\nL\u2019erreur serait par exemple de continuer \u00e0 grimper dans des blocs en 6a car je ne bouge plus dans les blocs en 6c. Ou encore de passer \u00e0 des triplettes de voies en 6b car je ne parviens plus \u00e0 encha\u00eener mes s\u00e9ries dans les 7a.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Mais il ne faut pas tomber dans l\u2019exc\u00e8s. Chaque m\u00e9thode a ses limites. Une bonne s\u00e9ance de barbare, qui te d\u00e9truit, a bien des vertus. Il faut savoir en faire une de temps en temps.<\/strong> Voici quelques exemples dans les vid\u00e9os plus bas.<\/p>\n<p><iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"YouTube video player\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/xRjMvulnRso?si=XYORvzr4a57T5ePy\" width=\"560\" height=\"315\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe> <iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"YouTube video player\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/Hh6Y9IQCLQw?si=_RJjFXMBK6b7Lqcv\" width=\"560\" height=\"315\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p><iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"YouTube video player\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/l_FMArd_Zk0?si=OeifzeJANwVN81Qg\" width=\"560\" height=\"315\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<h4><u>Pourquoi faire des s\u00e9ances \u00e9puisantes ? <\/u><\/h4>\n<p>On parle de limites. <strong>Une s\u00e9ance longue, difficile, \u00e9puisante, va te permettre de conna\u00eetre tes limites, de t\u2019en approcher, et de les repousser.<\/strong> <strong>Apprendre sur toi pour progresser.<\/strong><\/p>\n<h6><u>Progresser techniquement<\/u><\/h6>\n<p><strong>Quand on grimpe fatigu\u00e9, et que l\u2019on veut faire du mieux possible dans les voies ou blocs choisis, il va falloir mieux grimper. Etre plus pr\u00e9cis et coordonn\u00e9 dans ses d\u00e9placements, s\u2019appliquer, ajuster, ce qui veut dire progresser techniquement.<\/strong> La fatigue musculaire va t\u2019imposer de mieux grimper. Surtout si tu r\u00e9p\u00e8tes plusieurs fois les m\u00eames mouvements en cherchant une meilleure efficacit\u00e9.<br \/>\n<strong>Tu seras ainsi un meilleur grimpeur quand tu auras retrouv\u00e9 tes capacit\u00e9s physiques.<\/strong><\/p>\n<h6><u>Conna\u00eetre ses limites et progresser mentalement<\/u><\/h6>\n<p><strong>Quand on pense \u00eatre au bout, il en reste souvent encore un peu dans le r\u00e9servoir. La premi\u00e8re limite est mentale pour la majorit\u00e9 des grimpeurs. Savoir remettre un dernier essai, malgr\u00e9 la fatigue ressentie (avant et pendant la grimpe), tout en cherchant \u00e0 maintenir l\u2019envie, la confiance, et la combativit\u00e9, est une qualit\u00e9 pr\u00e9cieuse. C\u2019est m\u00eame selon moi essentiel pour la r\u00e9sistance, qui est \u00e9videmment une capacit\u00e9 physique mais surtout mentale. Continuer \u00e0 bien grimper, \u00e0 s\u2019engager malgr\u00e9 le mal aux avant-bras.<\/strong> D\u2019ailleurs ce dernier essai est souvent le bon. C\u2019est la t\u00eate qui a fait la diff\u00e9rence !<\/p>\n<p>De plus, <strong>cette capacit\u00e9 \u00e0 accepter et g\u00e9rer la fatigue, la douleur, permet de plus grimper en terme de quantit\u00e9. Plus grimper, c\u2019est aussi plus profiter. Ce qui est int\u00e9ressant sur un weekend ou un trip de grimpe.<\/strong><\/p>\n<h6><u>Quand faire des s\u00e9ances \u00e9puisantes ?<\/u><\/h6>\n<p>Pour se permettre de place une s\u00e9ance \u00e9puisante dans ton programme, deux conditions sont \u00e0 respecter imp\u00e9rativement :<br \/>\n<strong>&#8211; Etre en forme ET entra\u00een\u00e9 dans le type d\u2019effort que tu vas beaucoup r\u00e9p\u00e9ter.<\/strong><br \/>\n<strong>&#8211; Avoir pr\u00e9vu suffisamment de temps apr\u00e8s cette s\u00e9ance pour r\u00e9cup\u00e9rer et revenir \u00e0 ton niveau normal ou mieux, \u00e0 un meilleur niveau.<\/strong><br \/>\nSinon, abstiens-toi!<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<p><strong>Repousser ses limites, sans les d\u00e9passer, encore faut-il les connaitre et les accepter. Voil\u00e0 l\u2019utilit\u00e9 des \u201cgrosses s\u00e9ances\u201d comme on les appelle souvent. Un outil \u00e0 utiliser avec parcimonie car il peut \u00eatre dangereux.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>La confusion est tr\u00e8s souvent fa\u00eete entre pr\u00e9paration physique et entrainement. Elle est m\u00eame de plus en plus fr\u00e9quente sur Instagram. <strong>La pr\u00e9paration physique te rend plus fort. L\u2019entrainement te rend meilleur grimpeur. Et le lien entre les deux n\u2019est pas automatique. Les grosses s\u00e9ances fatigantes sont l\u2019un des outils permettant de faire le lien entre les deux. Si on les utilise \u00e0 bon escient.<\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Le junk volume est contre-productif. Par contre, il ne pause pas de probl\u00e8me s\u2019il est ponctuel. Je dirais m\u00eame qu\u2019il est b\u00e9n\u00e9fique d\u2019en faire r\u00e9guli\u00e8rement de mani\u00e8re r\u00e9fl\u00e9chie.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":26911,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"colormag_page_container_layout":"default_layout","colormag_page_sidebar_layout":"default_layout","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[23,6,9,4],"tags":[31,17,246,308,64,68],"class_list":["post-27024","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-highlitghs","category-entrainement-escalade","category-coup-de-gueule","category-escalade","tag-entrainement","tag-escalade","tag-fatigue","tag-mental","tag-preparation-mentale","tag-preparation-physique"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.3 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Pr\u00e9paration physique escalade : \u00e9viter le junk volume? - Grimpisme<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Quand et pourquoi faire du junk volume dans la programmation de son entra\u00eenement en escalade ? 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Pas si complexe mais qui demande quelques connaissances th\u00e9oriques et surtout beaucoup d\u2019exp\u00e9rience. 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