{"id":24508,"date":"2024-02-09T12:02:34","date_gmt":"2024-02-09T11:02:34","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/?p=24508"},"modified":"2024-05-23T15:02:34","modified_gmt":"2024-05-23T13:02:34","slug":"reeducation-poulie","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/reeducation-poulie\/","title":{"rendered":"[RETOUR D\u2019EXPERIENCE] Utiliser un capteur de force pour la r\u00e9\u00e9ducation d&rsquo;une poulie"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Vous avez peut-\u00eatre d\u00e9j\u00e0 lu <strong>cet <a href=\"https:\/\/aporteededoigts.com\/blessures-et-prevention-escalade-doigts-entrainement\/lesion-de-poulies-protocole-reeducation\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">excellent article sur aporteededoigts.com<\/a>, r\u00e9dig\u00e9 par le kin\u00e9sith\u00e9rapeute <a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/climbexercises_kinechambery\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Julien Remillieux<\/a>. Il concerne les blessures et la r\u00e9\u00e9ducation des poulies. <\/strong><br \/>\n<strong>Je voulais apporter mon exp\u00e9rience par rapport \u00e0 la phase de remodelage pr\u00e9sent\u00e9e dans l\u2019article. Une phase que j\u2019ai r\u00e9alis\u00e9e gr\u00e2ce au capteur de force <a href=\"https:\/\/tindeq.com\/?post_type=product\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Tindeq Progressor<\/a> durant l\u2019\u00e9t\u00e9 dernier<\/strong>. Elle faisait suite \u00e0 une rupture partielle de poulie \u00e0 l\u2019annulaire gauche que j&rsquo;ai b\u00eatement contract\u00e9e \u00e0 la fin mai 2023 (voir <a href=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/retour-experience-sans-blessure\/\">cet article<\/a>).<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h6><u> Le protocole que j\u2019ai utilis\u00e9<\/u><\/h6>\n<p><strong>Durant cette phase de remise en charge progressive, de remodelage, j\u2019ai r\u00e9alis\u00e9 des phases de \u201ctirage\u201d de 10\u201d avec 10\u201d de repos, 10 fois de suite, via la fonction \u201crepeaters\u201d du Tindeq. Je r\u00e9alisais souvent cet exercice 2 fois par jour. Parfois une seule fois. En commen\u00e7ant 10 jours apr\u00e8s la blessure (en gros, la phase 1 dans l&rsquo;article de Julien).<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Vous remarquerez que Julien pr\u00e9conise :<br \/>\n&#8211; (7s main gauche, 7s main droite, 7s de repos) x 5 \u00e0 10 r\u00e9p\u00e9titions<br \/>\n&#8211; 2 \u00e0 3 s\u00e9ries avec 5 min de repos<\/p>\n<p>Soyons plus pr\u00e9cis \u00e0 propos du terme \u201ctirage\u201d que j\u2019emploie dans ce contexte. Mon annulaire \u00e9tait en position arqu\u00e9e (voir la photo plus bas) et statique. J\u2019effectuais l\u2019effort de traction au niveau du coude. Souvent en position debout, parfois assis avec une sangle sous le pied. Et donc l\u2019ajustement de la force de tirage se faisait au niveau des muscles fl\u00e9chisseurs du coude.<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-1' class='gallery galleryid-24508 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-colormag-featured-image'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a title=\"IMG_2893\" href='https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/01\/IMG_2893.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"750\" height=\"445\" src=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/01\/IMG_2893-750x445.jpg\" class=\"attachment-colormag-featured-image size-colormag-featured-image\" alt=\"reeducation blessure poulie escalade grimpisme\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a title=\"IMG_2895\" href='https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/01\/IMG_2895.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"750\" height=\"445\" src=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/01\/IMG_2895-750x445.jpg\" class=\"attachment-colormag-featured-image size-colormag-featured-image\" alt=\"reeducation blessure poulie escalade grimpisme\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a title=\"Capture d_ecran . 2024-02-09 a 11.41.34\" href='https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/Capture-d_ecran-.-2024-02-09-a-11.41.34.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"750\" height=\"445\" src=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/Capture-d_ecran-.-2024-02-09-a-11.41.34-750x445.jpg\" class=\"attachment-colormag-featured-image size-colormag-featured-image\" alt=\"utilisation tindeq reeducation blessure poulie escalade\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<h6><u> L&rsquo;int\u00e9r\u00eat d\u2019un capteur connect\u00e9<\/u><\/h6>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/01\/Capture-decran-2024-01-11-a-18.31.58.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignright wp-image-24474 size-medium\" src=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/01\/Capture-decran-2024-01-11-a-18.31.58-300x143.png\" alt=\"reeducation rupture poulie escalade tindeq\" width=\"300\" height=\"143\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/01\/Capture-decran-2024-01-11-a-18.31.58-300x143.png 300w, https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/01\/Capture-decran-2024-01-11-a-18.31.58-768x366.png 768w, https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/01\/Capture-decran-2024-01-11-a-18.31.58-400x191.png 400w, https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/01\/Capture-decran-2024-01-11-a-18.31.58.png 965w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a>Voil\u00e0 je pense ce qui est \u00e0 retenir de cet article.<strong> La technologie permet de travailler avec pr\u00e9cision et progressivit\u00e9. On est concr\u00e8tement impliqu\u00e9 dans le processus ce qui rend la frustration et l\u2019impatience beaucoup plus simples \u00e0 g\u00e9rer.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>J\u2019ai r\u00e9alis\u00e9 ces s\u00e9ances sans strappal. Je m\u2019appliquais \u00e0 ne pas ressentir une douleur au doigt de plus de 3\/10 (\u00e9videmment c\u2019est subjectif et personnel) durant l\u2019exercice. Si la douleur du doigt en le mobilisant simplement ou en arquant le bord de la table (&#8230;) devenait plus forte le lendemain, je faisais machine arri\u00e8re en diminuant la charge de 0,5kg ou 1kg.<\/strong> Le tout \u00e9tant not\u00e9 dans un tableau excel afin de ne pas faire de b\u00eatises.<br \/>\n<strong>Si la douleur pendant et apr\u00e8s l\u2019exercice restait stable, je conservais la m\u00eame charge.<\/strong> <br \/>\n<strong>Quand l\u2019exercice ne provoquait plus aucunes douleurs et\/ou semblait facile, j\u2019augmentais la charge de 0,5kg.<\/strong> Progressant ainsi par paliers, d\u00e9butant \u00e0 2kg pour finir \u00e0 4,5kg. Je suis ensuite pass\u00e9 \u00e0 des exercices \u00e0 4 doigts s\u2019apparentant de plus en plus \u00e0 de l\u2019entrainement classique.<br \/>\nEn parall\u00e8le, je m\u2019appliquais plusieurs automassages par jour. Avec ou sans huiles essentielles.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Neuf semaines apr\u00e8s la blessure, je pouvais grimper dans tous les styles de voie avec du strap, et m\u2019entrainer (avec le Tindeq ou sur une poutre) sans strap. Evidemment, je restais dans une phase de reprise, avec beaucoup de prudence. Mais le plus dur \u00e9tait fait.<\/strong><\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<p><strong>L\u2019utilisation d\u2019un capteur pr\u00e9cis (Tindeq, SmartBoard, ou autres) m\u2019a offert un \u00e9norme apport psychologique pour accepter, soigner et revenir de cette blessure. Je ne l\u2019ai pas ressentie comme une punition m\u2019imposant d\u2019\u00eatre fataliste, r\u00e9sign\u00e9 et attentiste. J\u2019ai \u00e9t\u00e9 un acteur efficace de ma gu\u00e9rison en m\u2019organisant simplement, en \u00e9coutant mon corps et en croisant ce ressenti avec des donn\u00e9es objectives.<\/strong> M\u00eame si \u00e9videmment, le mieux est de ne pas se blesser aux doigts (voir cet <a href=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/blessure-doigt\/\">article<\/a>).<\/p>\n<p>Pr\u00e9cisons qu&rsquo;en cas de blessure, ou m\u00eame douleur, il faut imp\u00e9rativement consulter pour avoir un diagnostique m\u00e9dicale pr\u00e9cis, pour ensuite \u00eatre accompagn\u00e9&#8230; Ce que je n&rsquo;ai pas fait car ma poulie n&rsquo;a pas claqu\u00e9, que j&rsquo;avais mon dos \u00e0 g\u00e9rer, et que je me blessais trop souvent aux poulies quand j&rsquo;\u00e9tais plus jeune et moins exp\u00e9riment\u00e9. Je connaissais la musique mais j&rsquo;ai d\u00e9sormais plus d&rsquo;instruments! Alors \u00e7a me fait plaisir de partager cela avec vous. <strong>N&rsquo;h\u00e9sitez pas si vous avez des questions.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>Cette nouvelle technologie est-elle indispensable pour un grimpeur qui s\u2019entraine ? Je dirais que de nous jours, oui.<\/strong> Et je ne parle pas que de retour de blessure. Mais on y reviendra, car \u00e9norm\u00e9ment de choses sont \u00e0 \u00e9crire et inventer sur ce sujet.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Mon exp\u00e9rience par rapport \u00e0 la phase de remodelage d&rsquo;une poulie \u00e0 l&rsquo;aide d&rsquo;un Tindeq. Un vrai plus qui change la donne.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":24539,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"colormag_page_container_layout":"default_layout","colormag_page_sidebar_layout":"default_layout","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[6,4,58],"tags":[259,31,17,313,337,338],"class_list":["post-24508","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-entrainement-escalade","category-escalade","category-mes-sorties","tag-blessure","tag-entrainement","tag-escalade","tag-poulie","tag-reeducation","tag-tindeq"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.5 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Utiliser capteur de force pour r\u00e9\u00e9ducation d&#039;une poulie - Grimpisme<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Mon exp\u00e9rience par rapport \u00e0 la phase de remodelage d&#039;une poulie \u00e0 l&#039;aide d&#039;un Tindeq. Un vrai plus qui change la donne.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/reeducation-poulie\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Utiliser capteur de force pour r\u00e9\u00e9ducation d&#039;une poulie - Grimpisme\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Mon exp\u00e9rience par rapport \u00e0 la phase de remodelage d&#039;une poulie \u00e0 l&#039;aide d&#039;un Tindeq. Un vrai plus qui change la donne.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/reeducation-poulie\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"L&#039;Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\/moniteur escalade\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/grimpisme\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:author\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/fredCaillouXvionnet\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2024-02-09T11:02:34+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2024-05-23T13:02:34+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/01\/IMG_2893.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"750\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"1000\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Fred Vionnet\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"\u00c9crit par\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Fred Vionnet\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Dur\u00e9e de lecture estim\u00e9e\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"4 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/reeducation-poulie\\\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/reeducation-poulie\\\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Fred Vionnet\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/e0e0520aa48cfda56ae5406c2fe2caeb\"},\"headline\":\"[RETOUR D\u2019EXPERIENCE] Utiliser un capteur de force pour la r\u00e9\u00e9ducation d&rsquo;une poulie\",\"datePublished\":\"2024-02-09T11:02:34+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2024-05-23T13:02:34+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/reeducation-poulie\\\/\"},\"wordCount\":752,\"commentCount\":0,\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/#organization\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/reeducation-poulie\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2024\\\/01\\\/IMG_2893.jpg\",\"keywords\":[\"blessure\",\"entrainement\",\"escalade\",\"poulie\",\"reeducation\",\"tindeq\"],\"articleSection\":[\"Conseils entrainement escalade\",\"Escalade\",\"Mes sorties - retours d'exp\u00e9rience\"],\"inLanguage\":\"fr-FR\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"CommentAction\",\"name\":\"Comment\",\"target\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/reeducation-poulie\\\/#respond\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/reeducation-poulie\\\/\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/reeducation-poulie\\\/\",\"name\":\"Utiliser capteur de force pour r\u00e9\u00e9ducation d'une poulie - Grimpisme\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/#website\"},\"primaryImageOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/reeducation-poulie\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/reeducation-poulie\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2024\\\/01\\\/IMG_2893.jpg\",\"datePublished\":\"2024-02-09T11:02:34+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2024-05-23T13:02:34+00:00\",\"description\":\"Mon exp\u00e9rience par rapport \u00e0 la phase de remodelage d'une poulie \u00e0 l'aide d'un Tindeq. Un vrai plus qui change la donne.\",\"breadcrumb\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/reeducation-poulie\\\/#breadcrumb\"},\"inLanguage\":\"fr-FR\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"ReadAction\",\"target\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/reeducation-poulie\\\/\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"ImageObject\",\"inLanguage\":\"fr-FR\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/reeducation-poulie\\\/#primaryimage\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2024\\\/01\\\/IMG_2893.jpg\",\"contentUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2024\\\/01\\\/IMG_2893.jpg\",\"width\":750,\"height\":1000,\"caption\":\"reeducation blessure poulie escalade grimpisme\"},{\"@type\":\"BreadcrumbList\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/reeducation-poulie\\\/#breadcrumb\",\"itemListElement\":[{\"@type\":\"ListItem\",\"position\":1,\"name\":\"Accueil\",\"item\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/\"},{\"@type\":\"ListItem\",\"position\":2,\"name\":\"[RETOUR D\u2019EXPERIENCE] Utiliser un capteur de force pour la r\u00e9\u00e9ducation d&rsquo;une poulie\"}]},{\"@type\":\"WebSite\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/#website\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/\",\"name\":\"L&#039;Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\\\/moniteur escalade\",\"description\":\"Coaching et entrainement escalade. Buoux, C\u00e9\u00fcse et Fontainebleau.\",\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/#organization\"},\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"SearchAction\",\"target\":{\"@type\":\"EntryPoint\",\"urlTemplate\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/?s={search_term_string}\"},\"query-input\":{\"@type\":\"PropertyValueSpecification\",\"valueRequired\":true,\"valueName\":\"search_term_string\"}}],\"inLanguage\":\"fr-FR\"},{\"@type\":\"Organization\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/#organization\",\"name\":\"L&#039;Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\\\/moniteur escalade\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/\",\"logo\":{\"@type\":\"ImageObject\",\"inLanguage\":\"fr-FR\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/logo\\\/image\\\/\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2026\\\/04\\\/logo-wp-AL-avril-2026-1.jpg\",\"contentUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2026\\\/04\\\/logo-wp-AL-avril-2026-1.jpg\",\"width\":1955,\"height\":902,\"caption\":\"L&#039;Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\\\/moniteur escalade\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/logo\\\/image\\\/\"},\"sameAs\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/www.facebook.com\\\/grimpisme\\\/\",\"https:\\\/\\\/www.instagram.com\\\/grimpisme\\\/\",\"https:\\\/\\\/www.linkedin.com\\\/in\\\/fred-vionnet-6284b96a\\\/\",\"https:\\\/\\\/fr.pinterest.com\\\/grimpisme\\\/\",\"https:\\\/\\\/www.youtube.com\\\/@grimpisme\"]},{\"@type\":\"Person\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/e0e0520aa48cfda56ae5406c2fe2caeb\",\"name\":\"Fred Vionnet\",\"image\":{\"@type\":\"ImageObject\",\"inLanguage\":\"fr-FR\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/secure.gravatar.com\\\/avatar\\\/a2f6c5fc695da895033dcd95afaa6aeda795d5122ab3a22a03e24aab7f3d96a6?s=96&d=blank&r=g\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/secure.gravatar.com\\\/avatar\\\/a2f6c5fc695da895033dcd95afaa6aeda795d5122ab3a22a03e24aab7f3d96a6?s=96&d=blank&r=g\",\"contentUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/secure.gravatar.com\\\/avatar\\\/a2f6c5fc695da895033dcd95afaa6aeda795d5122ab3a22a03e24aab7f3d96a6?s=96&d=blank&r=g\",\"caption\":\"Fred Vionnet\"},\"description\":\"Coach escalade en Haute Savoie. Pas contre une grande voie non plus. Mais on va \u00e0 C\u00e9\u00fcse, Fontainebleau, Buoux ou encore les Gorges du Verdon quand vous voulez.\",\"sameAs\":[\"http:\\\/\\\/www.grimpisme.com\",\"https:\\\/\\\/www.facebook.com\\\/fredCaillouXvionnet\",\"https:\\\/\\\/www.linkedin.com\\\/profile\\\/preview?vpa=pub&locale=fr_FR\",\"https:\\\/\\\/fr.pinterest.com\\\/grimpisme\\\/\",\"https:\\\/\\\/www.youtube.com\\\/user\\\/grimpisme\",\"https:\\\/\\\/soundcloud.com\\\/fredvionnet\"],\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/author\\\/fred\\\/\"}]}<\/script>\n<!-- \/ Yoast SEO plugin. -->","yoast_head_json":{"title":"Utiliser capteur de force pour r\u00e9\u00e9ducation d'une poulie - Grimpisme","description":"Mon exp\u00e9rience par rapport \u00e0 la phase de remodelage d'une poulie \u00e0 l'aide d'un Tindeq. Un vrai plus qui change la donne.","robots":{"index":"index","follow":"follow","max-snippet":"max-snippet:-1","max-image-preview":"max-image-preview:large","max-video-preview":"max-video-preview:-1"},"canonical":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/reeducation-poulie\/","og_locale":"fr_FR","og_type":"article","og_title":"Utiliser capteur de force pour r\u00e9\u00e9ducation d'une poulie - Grimpisme","og_description":"Mon exp\u00e9rience par rapport \u00e0 la phase de remodelage d'une poulie \u00e0 l'aide d'un Tindeq. Un vrai plus qui change la donne.","og_url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/reeducation-poulie\/","og_site_name":"L&#039;Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\/moniteur escalade","article_publisher":"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/grimpisme\/","article_author":"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/fredCaillouXvionnet","article_published_time":"2024-02-09T11:02:34+00:00","article_modified_time":"2024-05-23T13:02:34+00:00","og_image":[{"width":750,"height":1000,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/01\/IMG_2893.jpg","type":"image\/jpeg"}],"author":"Fred Vionnet","twitter_card":"summary_large_image","twitter_misc":{"\u00c9crit par":"Fred Vionnet","Dur\u00e9e de lecture estim\u00e9e":"4 minutes"},"schema":{"@context":"https:\/\/schema.org","@graph":[{"@type":"Article","@id":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/reeducation-poulie\/#article","isPartOf":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/reeducation-poulie\/"},"author":{"name":"Fred Vionnet","@id":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/#\/schema\/person\/e0e0520aa48cfda56ae5406c2fe2caeb"},"headline":"[RETOUR D\u2019EXPERIENCE] Utiliser un capteur de force pour la r\u00e9\u00e9ducation d&rsquo;une poulie","datePublished":"2024-02-09T11:02:34+00:00","dateModified":"2024-05-23T13:02:34+00:00","mainEntityOfPage":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/reeducation-poulie\/"},"wordCount":752,"commentCount":0,"publisher":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/#organization"},"image":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/reeducation-poulie\/#primaryimage"},"thumbnailUrl":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/01\/IMG_2893.jpg","keywords":["blessure","entrainement","escalade","poulie","reeducation","tindeq"],"articleSection":["Conseils entrainement escalade","Escalade","Mes sorties - retours d'exp\u00e9rience"],"inLanguage":"fr-FR","potentialAction":[{"@type":"CommentAction","name":"Comment","target":["https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/reeducation-poulie\/#respond"]}]},{"@type":"WebPage","@id":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/reeducation-poulie\/","url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/reeducation-poulie\/","name":"Utiliser capteur de force pour r\u00e9\u00e9ducation d'une poulie - Grimpisme","isPartOf":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/#website"},"primaryImageOfPage":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/reeducation-poulie\/#primaryimage"},"image":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/reeducation-poulie\/#primaryimage"},"thumbnailUrl":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/01\/IMG_2893.jpg","datePublished":"2024-02-09T11:02:34+00:00","dateModified":"2024-05-23T13:02:34+00:00","description":"Mon exp\u00e9rience par rapport \u00e0 la phase de remodelage d'une poulie \u00e0 l'aide d'un Tindeq. Un vrai plus qui change la donne.","breadcrumb":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/reeducation-poulie\/#breadcrumb"},"inLanguage":"fr-FR","potentialAction":[{"@type":"ReadAction","target":["https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/reeducation-poulie\/"]}]},{"@type":"ImageObject","inLanguage":"fr-FR","@id":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/reeducation-poulie\/#primaryimage","url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/01\/IMG_2893.jpg","contentUrl":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/01\/IMG_2893.jpg","width":750,"height":1000,"caption":"reeducation blessure poulie escalade grimpisme"},{"@type":"BreadcrumbList","@id":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/reeducation-poulie\/#breadcrumb","itemListElement":[{"@type":"ListItem","position":1,"name":"Accueil","item":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/"},{"@type":"ListItem","position":2,"name":"[RETOUR D\u2019EXPERIENCE] Utiliser un capteur de force pour la r\u00e9\u00e9ducation d&rsquo;une poulie"}]},{"@type":"WebSite","@id":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/#website","url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/","name":"L&#039;Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\/moniteur escalade","description":"Coaching et entrainement escalade. Buoux, C\u00e9\u00fcse et Fontainebleau.","publisher":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/#organization"},"potentialAction":[{"@type":"SearchAction","target":{"@type":"EntryPoint","urlTemplate":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/?s={search_term_string}"},"query-input":{"@type":"PropertyValueSpecification","valueRequired":true,"valueName":"search_term_string"}}],"inLanguage":"fr-FR"},{"@type":"Organization","@id":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/#organization","name":"L&#039;Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\/moniteur escalade","url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/","logo":{"@type":"ImageObject","inLanguage":"fr-FR","@id":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/#\/schema\/logo\/image\/","url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/logo-wp-AL-avril-2026-1.jpg","contentUrl":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/logo-wp-AL-avril-2026-1.jpg","width":1955,"height":902,"caption":"L&#039;Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\/moniteur escalade"},"image":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/#\/schema\/logo\/image\/"},"sameAs":["https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/grimpisme\/","https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/grimpisme\/","https:\/\/www.linkedin.com\/in\/fred-vionnet-6284b96a\/","https:\/\/fr.pinterest.com\/grimpisme\/","https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/@grimpisme"]},{"@type":"Person","@id":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/#\/schema\/person\/e0e0520aa48cfda56ae5406c2fe2caeb","name":"Fred Vionnet","image":{"@type":"ImageObject","inLanguage":"fr-FR","@id":"https:\/\/secure.gravatar.com\/avatar\/a2f6c5fc695da895033dcd95afaa6aeda795d5122ab3a22a03e24aab7f3d96a6?s=96&d=blank&r=g","url":"https:\/\/secure.gravatar.com\/avatar\/a2f6c5fc695da895033dcd95afaa6aeda795d5122ab3a22a03e24aab7f3d96a6?s=96&d=blank&r=g","contentUrl":"https:\/\/secure.gravatar.com\/avatar\/a2f6c5fc695da895033dcd95afaa6aeda795d5122ab3a22a03e24aab7f3d96a6?s=96&d=blank&r=g","caption":"Fred Vionnet"},"description":"Coach escalade en Haute Savoie. Pas contre une grande voie non plus. Mais on va \u00e0 C\u00e9\u00fcse, Fontainebleau, Buoux ou encore les Gorges du Verdon quand vous voulez.","sameAs":["http:\/\/www.grimpisme.com","https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/fredCaillouXvionnet","https:\/\/www.linkedin.com\/profile\/preview?vpa=pub&locale=fr_FR","https:\/\/fr.pinterest.com\/grimpisme\/","https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/user\/grimpisme","https:\/\/soundcloud.com\/fredvionnet"],"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/author\/fred\/"}]}},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/01\/IMG_2893.jpg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p68Rw6-6ni","jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":1503,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/video-dave-graham-reeducation\/","url_meta":{"origin":24508,"position":0},"title":"VIDEO: Dave Graham recovering from pulley injury&#8230;VIDEO: Dave Graham en r\u00e9\u00e9ducation","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"5 mai 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"... climbing 8b! Dave Graham - Te Cuelgas Guey 8B from Trangoworld on Vimeo.Dave Graham se remet d'un blessure \u00e0 une poulie contract\u00e9e cet hiver au Mexique en grimpant sur des plats. Mais c'est 8b bloc quand m\u00eame, avec une utilisation des pointes de pieds qu'il ma\u00eetrise \u00e0 merveille. Dave\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans &quot;Escalade&quot;","block_context":{"text":"Escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"taghia maroc florence pinet","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/DSC_0115-300x225.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":24914,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/fatigue-entrainement-escalade\/","url_meta":{"origin":24508,"position":1},"title":"[RETOUR D\u2019EXPERIENCE] Entrainement escalade: fatigue(s) mentale, ou physique?","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"23 mai 2024","format":false,"excerpt":"Lorsque qu'on suit un entrainement en escalade, il n'est pas toujours facile de d\u00e9terminer quelle(s) fatigue(s) on ressent, et quelles en sont les causes. Fatigu\u00e9 mentalement, physiquement? En force, en endurance? Ou finalement d\u00e9sentrain\u00e9? Complexe tout \u00e7a!","rel":"","context":"Dans &quot;Conseils entrainement escalade&quot;","block_context":{"text":"Conseils entrainement escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/entrainement-escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"escalade climbing buoux","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/fred-buoux-2.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/fred-buoux-2.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/fred-buoux-2.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/fred-buoux-2.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/fred-buoux-2.jpg?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":26338,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/entrainement-force-doigt-emil-abrahamsson\/","url_meta":{"origin":24508,"position":2},"title":"Entra\u00eenement force doigt : faut-il utiliser la m\u00e9thode des \u201c10 minutes\u201d d\u2019Emil Abrahamsson?","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"8 d\u00e9cembre 2024","format":false,"excerpt":"Aviez-vous suivi le coup de buzz r\u00e9ussi par le grimpeur su\u00e9dois Emil Abrahamsson en 2021, avec son fameux entra\u00eenement en force doigt des \"10 minutes\" ? Revenons-y car il r\u00e9apparait dans l\u2019actualit\u00e9 et le marketing. Que vaut cette m\u00e9thode ? Faut-il l\u2019utiliser ? L'adapter?","rel":"","context":"Dans &quot;A la une&quot;","block_context":{"text":"A la une","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/highlitghs\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"methode 10 minutes emil abrahamsson entrainement escalade grimpisme","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/IMG_4161.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/IMG_4161.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/IMG_4161.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/IMG_4161.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":24352,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/test-plateforme-entralpi\/","url_meta":{"origin":24508,"position":3},"title":"Test de la plateforme de force Entralpi","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"27 d\u00e9cembre 2023","format":false,"excerpt":"Voici donc un bilan tr\u00e8s n\u00e9gatif. Investir dans une plateforme Entralpi n\u2019a plus aucun sens actuellement avec l\u2019arriv\u00e9e dans notre milieu de capteurs de force et de poutres connect\u00e9es. Entralpi aura \u00e9t\u00e9 un pr\u00e9curseur, mais pas plus.","rel":"","context":"Dans &quot;Conseils entrainement escalade&quot;","block_context":{"text":"Conseils entrainement escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/entrainement-escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"entrainement escalade fred vionnet grimpisme","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/entralpi2.jpeg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/entralpi2.jpeg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/entralpi2.jpeg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/entralpi2.jpeg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":24410,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/avis-livre-entrainer-scientifiquement-escalade\/","url_meta":{"origin":24508,"position":4},"title":"Avis sur le livre \u201cS&rsquo;entra\u00eener scientifiquement pour l&rsquo;escalade\u201d de Sergio Consuegra","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"26 octobre 2024","format":false,"excerpt":"Vous l\u2019avez compris d\u2019embl\u00e9e, je suis emball\u00e9 par le livre \u201cS'entra\u00eener scientifiquement pour l'escalade\u201d de Sergio Consuegra. L\u2019avis que je vais vous exposer sera donc exigeant et pointu, autant que l\u2019est ce livre !","rel":"","context":"Dans &quot;Conseils entrainement escalade&quot;","block_context":{"text":"Conseils entrainement escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/entrainement-escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"livre entrainement scientifique escalade consuegra","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/s-entrainer-scientifiquement-pour-l-escalade.png?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/s-entrainer-scientifiquement-pour-l-escalade.png?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/s-entrainer-scientifiquement-pour-l-escalade.png?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/s-entrainer-scientifiquement-pour-l-escalade.png?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":18140,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/quand-comment-finir-seance-entrainement\/","url_meta":{"origin":24508,"position":5},"title":"Quand et comment finir une s\u00e9ance d&rsquo;entrainement en escalade?","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"3 octobre 2019","format":false,"excerpt":"En observant les grimpeurs dans les salles de plastique, je pense qu'il tr\u00e8s utile de parler de la fin d\u2019une s\u00e9ance d\u2019entrainement. Avec des erreurs \u00e0 \u00e9viter.","rel":"","context":"Dans &quot;Conseils entrainement escalade&quot;","block_context":{"text":"Conseils entrainement escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/entrainement-escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"entrainement escalade","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/entrainement-escalade.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/entrainement-escalade.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/entrainement-escalade.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/entrainement-escalade.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/24508","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=24508"}],"version-history":[{"count":25,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/24508\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":24639,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/24508\/revisions\/24639"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/24539"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=24508"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=24508"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=24508"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}