{"id":24016,"date":"2023-11-03T10:52:23","date_gmt":"2023-11-03T09:52:23","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/?p=24016"},"modified":"2024-02-14T09:11:31","modified_gmt":"2024-02-14T08:11:31","slug":"journee-negative","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/journee-negative\/","title":{"rendered":"[RETOUR D\u2019EXPERIENCE] Une journ\u00e9e 100% n\u00e9gative"},"content":{"rendered":"

Nous sommes le 15 ao\u00fbt. Je me remets tr\u00e8s doucement de ma blessure (voir cet article<\/a>) et mon niveau de grimpe est tr\u00e8s bas. Un niveau clairement plus suffisant pour mon \u00e9go et mon travail d\u2019entra\u00eeneur.<\/strong> Je suis dans le 6c, 7a peut \u00eatre sur un coup de chance, pas plus. M\u00eame si je sens que le vent tourne doucement, la journ\u00e9e ne va pas tr\u00e8s bien commencer. Une journ\u00e9e n\u00e9gative ? Cela d\u00e9pend comment on prend les choses.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\n

Nous avons d\u00e9j\u00e0 refait quelques grandes voies dans les semaines pr\u00e9c\u00e9dentes. Et je suis bien content d\u2019avoir encha\u00een\u00e9 toutes les longueurs de la \u201clibellule et le papillon\u201d au Rochers de Leschaux (voir ce lien<\/a>) quelques jours auparavant.
\nDeux jours avant cette journ\u00e9e, nous avons r\u00e9alis\u00e9 la magique travers\u00e9e Tenneverge-Ruan. J\u2019\u00e9tais en tr\u00e8s grande forme, mais ce 2 jours de balade en terrain pourri m\u2019ont bien vid\u00e9. Je suis tr\u00e8s fatigu\u00e9, et je dors mal. Le stress de cette aventure est encore pr\u00e9sent dans mon corps et ma t\u00eate. Malgr\u00e9 cela, nous d\u00e9cidons d\u2019aller faire \u201cSalla’m aleikoum\u201d au Rocher de la Salla. Il fait une chaleur de macroniste et il faut partir tr\u00e8s t\u00f4t.<\/p>\n

La marche d\u2019approche se passe bien. Quant \u00e0 la grimpe, c\u2019est une autre histoire. Je suis incapable de me concentrer. Impossible d\u2019\u00eatre dans l\u2019instant pr\u00e9sent, je suis litt\u00e9ralement bouff\u00e9 par la crispation, la fatigue, et les pens\u00e9es n\u00e9gatives.<\/strong> Je grimpe mal, mais je grimpe n\u00e9anmoins la premi\u00e8re partie en r\u00e9versible. Pour le d\u00e9but de la deuxi\u00e8me partie de la voie, cela va en peu mieux. Je sais g\u00e9rer ces journ\u00e9es compliqu\u00e9es ou la confiance en soi est d\u00e9faillante. Je ne suis pas pr\u00e9parateur mental, mais j\u2019ai \u00e9t\u00e9 form\u00e9 sur l\u2019utilisation des bases de la pr\u00e9paration mentale. J\u2019ai co-\u00e9crit un livre sur le sujet, et j\u2019ose m\u00eame proposer une formation intitul\u00e9e \u201cmental, confiance, et peur de la chute\u201d (voir ce lien<\/a>) !!!<\/strong> Et pourtant \u2026<\/p>\n

\"escalade<\/a>
Kirsten se fait plaisir. Pas moi !<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Je pars dans la longueur en 6c+, et je suis sur-tendu. Je ne prends aucun plaisir, c\u2019est une horreur. Je d\u00e9sescalade en r\u00e9cup\u00e9rant les d\u00e9gaines. Kirsten h\u00e9site \u00e0 essayer la longueur puis nous d\u00e9cidons finalement de redescendre. C\u2019est bizarre, cette d\u00e9cision me fait un bien fou<\/strong> et je change presque d\u2019avis ! Puis s\u2019enchainent les rappels, la marche, le passage par Annecy et la soir\u00e9e en famille. Je me sens de mieux en mieux, d\u2019heure en heure.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Avoir enfin ACCEPT\u00c9 que je n\u2019\u00e9tais pas en \u00e9tat de grimper, pas en \u00e9tat physique ni psychologique, a d\u00e9j\u00e0 r\u00e9gl\u00e9 une grande partie du probl\u00e8me.<\/strong> Encore faut-il l\u2019avoir pleinement r\u00e9alis\u00e9 avant de l\u2019accepter !
\nLa spirale positive se remet en place :
\n– reconstruire la confiance<\/strong>
\n– un physique qui remonte progressivement.<\/p>\n

\n
\"escalade<\/a>
En pleine forme apr\u00e8s des mois de gal\u00e8re!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

En d\u00e9but de s\u00e9ance, poser vous ces deux questions :<\/strong>
\n– Quel est mon \u00e9tat de forme (physique) aujourd’hui (voir ce lien<\/a>)?<\/strong>
\n– Est ce que j’ai envie de grimper?<\/strong>
\nPuis organisez votre s\u00e9ance en fonctions des r\u00e9ponses<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

J\u2019\u00e9cris ces lignes apr\u00e8s les vacances de la Toussaint Des vacances durant lesquelles nous nous sommes r\u00e9gal\u00e9s \u00e0 Buoux et Saint L\u00e9ger du Ventoux. J\u2019ai m\u00eame enchain\u00e9 2 voies en 7c. C\u2019est reparti, lundi je m\u2019entraine !
\nEt depuis, je ma\u00eetrise beaucoup mieux la visualisation positive<\/strong>.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Avoir enfin ACCEPT\u00c9 que je n\u2019\u00e9tais pas en \u00e9tat de grimper, pas en \u00e9tat physique ni psychologique, a d\u00e9j\u00e0 r\u00e9gl\u00e9 une grande partie du probl\u00e8me. Encore faut-il l\u2019avoir pleinement r\u00e9alis\u00e9 avant de l\u2019accepter ! La spirale positive se remet en place.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":23449,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"colormag_page_container_layout":"default_layout","colormag_page_sidebar_layout":"default_layout","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[6,4,58],"tags":[326,327,17,105,328,64],"class_list":["post-24016","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-entrainement-escalade","category-escalade","category-mes-sorties","tag-acceptation","tag-confiance","tag-escalade","tag-grande-voie","tag-journee-negative","tag-preparation-mentale"],"yoast_head":"\n[RETOUR D\u2019EXPERIENCE] Journ\u00e9e 100% n\u00e9gative ? 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