{"id":2312,"date":"2014-06-24T13:50:38","date_gmt":"2014-06-24T12:50:38","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/?p=2312"},"modified":"2017-09-16T16:35:36","modified_gmt":"2017-09-16T15:35:36","slug":"nouvelle-grande-voie-chartreuse-rampage","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/nouvelle-grande-voie-chartreuse-rampage\/","title":{"rendered":"Nouvelle grande voie en Chartreuse"},"content":{"rendered":"

Merci \u00e0 Christine Gachet pour partager les infos sur cette nouvelle voie qu’elle a ouverte au 2\u00e8me Pilier Nord du Pas de Rocheplane (Chartreuse<\/strong>) avec Marc Malvoti le 25 mai dernier. Le cheminement est original et la voie se nomme \u00ab\u00a0Chartreuse Rampage\u00a0\u00bb<\/strong>, j’attends vos impressions si vous allez la r\u00e9p\u00e9ter!
\n Vous pouvez t\u00e9l\u00e9charger le topo complet ici<\/a>, j’ai repris les m\u00eames infos ci-dessous.<\/p>\n

\"nouvelle<\/a><\/p>\n

Difficult\u00e9 : <\/u>
\n TD environ 150 m, 5c obligatoire, P1, 57 points relais compris (goujons inox \u00d810 mm double expansion et plaquettes fixe).
\n Encordement 50 m et 10 d\u00e9gaines.<\/p>\n

Rocher : <\/u>
\n calcaire Urgonien chartrousien !<\/p>\n

Approche (1h45, 700 m d\u00e9nivel\u00e9) : <\/u>
\n depuis le parking des pistes de Saint Hilaire, prendre le chemin du pas de Rocheplane. Suivre le chemin jusqu\u2019au pied de la petite barre (cote 1730 environ) puis le laisser \u00e0 gauche et traverser horizontalement jusqu\u2019\u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9paule (1 kairn). Suivre ensuite en l\u00e9g\u00e8re descendance la sente sur 200 m (9 points d\u2019assurage \u2013 balisage rouge) jusqu\u2019\u00e0 l\u2019aplomb du surplomb caract\u00e9ristique qui barre l\u2019acc\u00e8s \u00e0 la rampe. Remonter de 20 m jusqu\u2019au relais. La voie se d\u00e9roule ensuite sur la rampe.<\/p>\n

Descente : <\/u>
\n \u00e0 pied par le Pas de Rocheplane situ\u00e9 \u00e0 300 m environ de la sortie sur la gauche.<\/p>\n

Observation :<\/u>
\n gabarit limit\u00e9 \u00e0 environ 80 kg pour le passage dans le mini-chorum !! un peu de contorsion\u2026<\/strong><\/p>\n

L1 : 6c\/A0 puis 4<\/strong>
\n Partir en travers\u00e9e \u00e0 droite sous le surplomb. Rejoindre la rampe jusqu\u2019au relais (9 points).
\n L2 : 4 puis 6c+ \/ A0 morpho<\/strong>
\n Grande longueur. Possibilit\u00e9 de la scinder en 2 (relais interm\u00e9diaire).
\n Continuer la rampe jusqu\u2019au relais pr\u00e8s d\u2019un pin (10 points).
\n L3 : 4 puis 5+<\/strong>
\n Suivre la rampe jusqu\u2019\u00e0 un chorum (cavit\u00e9) de petite dimension (taille limit\u00e9e \u00e0 un gabarit maxi de
\n 80 kg). Relais \u00e0 la sortie (6 points)
\n L4 : 4<\/strong>
\n Travers\u00e9e par une petite vire plein gaz sur la gauche. Relais \u00e0 son extr\u00e9mit\u00e9 \u00e0 20 m (5 points).
\n L5 : 6a puis 6b+<\/strong>
\n Remonter un di\u00e8dre peu marqu\u00e9 jusqu\u2019au pin (relais \u2013 9 points).
\n L6 : 5<\/strong>
\n Franchir une fissure di\u00e8dre puis remonter une pente herbeuse jusqu\u2019au sommet (2 points).<\/p>\nngg_shortcode_0_placeholder\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Merci \u00e0 Christine Gachet pour partager les infos sur cette nouvelle voie qu\u2019elle a ouverte au 2\u00e8me Pilier Nord du Pas de Rocheplane (Chartreuse) avec Marc Malvoti le 25 mai dernier. Le cheminement est original, j\u2019attends vos impressions si vous allez la r\u00e9p\u00e9ter!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":15049,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"colormag_page_container_layout":"default_layout","colormag_page_sidebar_layout":"default_layout","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[4,1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2312","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-escalade","category-news"],"yoast_head":"\n"Chartreuse Rampage", nouvelle voie escalade en Chartreuse - Grimpisme<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Merci \u00e0 Christine Gachet pour partager les infos sur cette nouvelle voie qu\u2019elle a ouverte au 2\u00e8me Pilier Nord du Pas de Rocheplane (Chartreuse) avec Marc Malvoti.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/nouvelle-grande-voie-chartreuse-rampage\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\""Chartreuse Rampage", nouvelle voie escalade en Chartreuse - Grimpisme\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Merci \u00e0 Christine Gachet pour partager les infos sur cette nouvelle voie qu\u2019elle a ouverte au 2\u00e8me Pilier Nord du Pas de Rocheplane (Chartreuse) avec Marc Malvoti.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/nouvelle-grande-voie-chartreuse-rampage\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - 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Je voulais le partager avec vous car finalement pourquoi grimpe-t-on?","rel":"","context":"Dans "Conseils entrainement escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Conseils entrainement escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/entrainement-escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"fred vionnet moniteur escalade buoux","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/IMG_0938.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/IMG_0938.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/IMG_0938.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/IMG_0938.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/IMG_0938.jpg?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/IMG_0938.jpg?resize=1400%2C800&ssl=1 4x"},"classes":[]},{"id":11601,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/nouvelle-voie-entraygues\/","url_meta":{"origin":2312,"position":4},"title":"La rotule?","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"6 juillet 2011","format":false,"excerpt":"Nous avons pass\u00e9 un super weekend \u00e0 Entraygues (pour changer) avec une bande de petits jeunes grenoblois (et autres) bien \u00e9nerv\u00e9s, du genre \u00e0 faire des tractions d'un bras pour se chauffer. 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