{"id":22623,"date":"2023-03-02T16:53:27","date_gmt":"2023-03-02T15:53:27","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/?p=22623"},"modified":"2023-12-27T15:28:30","modified_gmt":"2023-12-27T14:28:30","slug":"conjuration-imbeciles-buoux","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/conjuration-imbeciles-buoux\/","title":{"rendered":"[RETOUR D\u2019EXPERIENCE] Un projet de 32 ans \u00e0 Buoux: peur et concentration"},"content":{"rendered":"

Nous voil\u00e0 encore \u00e0 Buoux. D\u00e9finitivement, cette falaise me colle \u00e0 la peau (voir cet article<\/a>). Encha\u00eener enfin une voie 32 ans apr\u00e8s la premi\u00e8re mont\u00e9e, cela n’est pas commun.<\/strong> Je me souviens \u00eatre mont\u00e9 dans la \u00ab\u00a0Conjuration des Imb\u00e9ciles\u00a0\u00bb en novembre 1991. Pourquoi je me souviens du mois et de l’ann\u00e9e? Car les fran\u00e7ais avaient remport\u00e9 la Coupe Davis ce weekend l\u00e0. La radio ne parlait que de cette victoire nationale durant le trajet du retour. J’\u00e9tais avec notre entraineur, Fred Charpentier, et quelques autres jeunes grimpeurs du club. Et oui, en 1991, nous avions un entraineur au CAF d’Annemasse, avec un groupe qui s’appelait ESCAL’JEUNES. Comme quoi les choses n’ont pas avanc\u00e9 si vite depuis? C’\u00e9tait novateur, certes. Mais d’autres clubs \u00e9taient \u00e9galement d\u00e9j\u00e0 structur\u00e9s de la sorte.
\nJe grimpais depuis un peu plus de 2 ans et mon niveau \u00e9tait de 7a \u00e0 vue, peut \u00eatre 7a+ ou 7b parfois. Le lien avec le tennis n’est pas la seule chose qui me lie \u00e0 cette voie et ce weekend. En effet, je me souviens tr\u00e8s bien du gros vol que je m’\u00e9tais pris lors de mon essai \u00e0 vue. Il faut dire que les points sont \u00e9loign\u00e9s d\u00e8s le 3\u00e8me, les crux bien obligatoires, et que nous ne devions pas \u00eatre des champions de l’assurage dynamique! Je m’\u00e9tais bien fait secou\u00e9 et cela m’a marqu\u00e9. J’avais encore tr\u00e8s peu d’exp\u00e9rience.<\/strong> A tel point que je ne me rappelle que tr\u00e8s peu des autres voies ou secteurs visit\u00e9s du weekend. Il me semble que nous avions aussi grimp\u00e9 au secteur \u00ab\u00a0Songe\u00a0\u00bb et de la \u00ab\u00a0Plage\u00a0\u00bb.<\/p>\n

\"stage<\/a>
Pas mal mon pied derri\u00e8re la corde, non?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Ce souvenir marquant et pas tr\u00e8s agr\u00e9able m’a demand\u00e9 un effort mental particulier pour pr\u00e9parer mon essai. Cette voie exigeante, patin\u00e9e, un peu engag\u00e9e, technique, complexe, ainsi que ce magnifique mur m’impressionnent depuis trois d\u00e9cennies.<\/strong> L’ann\u00e9e derni\u00e8re, j’avais mis les d\u00e9gaines depuis la voie de droite. Mais la pluie m’avait emp\u00each\u00e9 d’essayer (Sympa la mont\u00e9e en moulinette sous le d\u00e9luge pour r\u00e9cup\u00e9rer les paires! Encore un bon souvenir!).
\nLa semaine derni\u00e8re, j’ai \u00e0 nouveau plac\u00e9 les paires depuis la voie de droite puis j’ai fait une mont\u00e9e de rep\u00e9rage. Cela m’a permis d’ailleurs de trouver une m\u00e9thode incroyable et facile de mono-doigt avec l’auriculaire gauche. Je n’avais jamais fait \u00e7a!
\nAvant l’essai, j’\u00e9tais donc tr\u00e8s stress\u00e9 par ce 7b, sans que cela ne soit objectivement justifi\u00e9 (j’ai d\u00fb en enchainer des centaines). Cela \u00e9tait par contre justifiable, compl\u00e8tement justifiable par des facteurs humains et personnels. Malgr\u00e9 tout, ma routine de concentration a parfaitement fonctionn\u00e9 et j’ai march\u00e9 dans la voie. Je l’ai enchain\u00e9e sans forcer ni me fatiguer les avants-bras. J’ai grimp\u00e9 exactement comme je l’avais pr\u00e9vu. Le bonheur brut absolu!<\/strong><\/p>\n

Je voulais partager avec vous cette petite histoire car elle permet, je pense, de mettre en avant les points suivants:
\n– Quand on a peur, on n’a pas \u00e0 se justifier! La bienveillance avec soi-m\u00eame est indispensable.<\/strong>
\n– Une routine de concentration, juste avant de grimper, permet de se mettre dans le bon \u00e9tat mental \u00e0 presque tous les coups.<\/strong> La cr\u00e9er n’est pas toujours simple par contre. C’est \u00e0 faire avec m\u00e9thode et essais\/erreurs.
\n– Le plaisir n’est pas absolument li\u00e9 \u00e0 la difficult\u00e9 et \u00e0 la performance, mais \u00e0 la possibilit\u00e9 de savourer l’instant de grimpe pr\u00e9sent<\/strong>, que l’on finisse par tomber ou pas.<\/p>\n

Int\u00e9ress\u00e9 par un weekend \u00e0 Buoux? C’est par ici<\/a>.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Une voie de Buoux enchain\u00e9e 32 ans apr\u00e8s la premi\u00e8re mont\u00e9e. Pas commun non? Ce qui compte c’est le plaisir et l’instant pr\u00e9sent!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":22625,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"colormag_page_container_layout":"default_layout","colormag_page_sidebar_layout":"default_layout","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[6,4,58],"tags":[85,17,311,245,247,310,312],"class_list":["post-22623","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-entrainement-escalade","category-escalade","category-mes-sorties","tag-buoux","tag-escalade","tag-passion","tag-peur","tag-plaisir","tag-projet","tag-routine-de-concentration"],"yoast_head":"\n[RETOUR D\u2019EXPERIENCE] Voie projet 32 ans Buoux - Grimpisme<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Une voie de Buoux enchain\u00e9e 32 ans apr\u00e8s la premi\u00e8re mont\u00e9e. 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Je voulais le partager avec vous car finalement pourquoi grimpe-t-on?","rel":"","context":"Dans "Conseils entrainement escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Conseils entrainement escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/entrainement-escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"fred vionnet moniteur escalade buoux","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/IMG_0938.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/IMG_0938.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/IMG_0938.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/IMG_0938.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/IMG_0938.jpg?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/IMG_0938.jpg?resize=1400%2C800&ssl=1 4x"},"classes":[]},{"id":24914,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/fatigue-entrainement-escalade\/","url_meta":{"origin":22623,"position":2},"title":"[RETOUR D\u2019EXPERIENCE] Entrainement escalade: fatigue(s) mentale, ou physique?","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"23 mai 2024","format":false,"excerpt":"Lorsque qu'on suit un entrainement en escalade, il n'est pas toujours facile de d\u00e9terminer quelle(s) fatigue(s) on ressent, et quelles en sont les causes. 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