{"id":22528,"date":"2023-02-07T17:01:28","date_gmt":"2023-02-07T16:01:28","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/?p=22528"},"modified":"2023-03-02T16:55:20","modified_gmt":"2023-03-02T15:55:20","slug":"progression-force","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/progression-force\/","title":{"rendered":"[RETOUR D\u2019EXPERIENCE] 25% de gain de force en semi-arqu\u00e9 ?"},"content":{"rendered":"

J\u2019ai choisi un titre racoleur. C\u2019est un choix d\u00e9lib\u00e9r\u00e9, car j\u2019aimerais apporter un point de vue nuanc\u00e9 sur les promesses de progression rapide et facile.
\nOn est bien d\u2019accord, certains veulent trop vendre. Je d\u00e9teste cette nouvelle mentalit\u00e9 qui s\u2019est install\u00e9e dans notre milieu. M\u00eame s\u2019il est vrai que dans certains contextes, on peut progresser tr\u00e8s rapidement. Je m\u2019explique.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\n
Prise de force de 25% en semi-arqu\u00e9!<\/u><\/h6>\n

J\u2019ai identifi\u00e9 depuis 2 ans environ les soucis que rencontre ma compagne sur la pr\u00e9hension semi-arqu\u00e9. Nous reparlerons des pr\u00e9hensions et de leur maitrise prochainement (il y a beaucoup de choses dites et faites sur ce th\u00e8me qui me g\u00eanent). Elle la travaille souvent, que ce soit en grimpant, o\u00f9 avec des exercices de poutre, faciles, avec les pieds au sol. Les progr\u00e8s furent r\u00e9guliers, constants, mais pas fulgurants.
\nDurant les vacances de No\u00ebl, j\u2019ai d\u00e9cid\u00e9 de me pencher de mani\u00e8re plus organis\u00e9e sur ce probl\u00e8me. La m\u00e9t\u00e9o \u00e9tait souvent mauvaise. Nous voulions \u00e9viter de trop prendre la voiture. Le timing \u00e9tait id\u00e9al.
\nSur une p\u00e9riode de 20 jours, Kirsten a suivi 6 s\u00e9ances de poutre enti\u00e8rement ax\u00e9es sur le travail de la pr\u00e9hension semi-arqu\u00e9. Il s\u2019agissait d\u2019efforts de 20 seconde de tirage \u00e0 65% de sa force maximale, avec beaucoup de repos. Nous utilisions la plateforme de force Entralpi (entralpi.com<\/a>) pour ces s\u00e9ances. Ces s\u00e9ances \u00e9taient faciles<\/strong>, m\u00eame si j\u2019aurais pr\u00e9f\u00e9r\u00e9 les rendre encore plus facile en travaillant \u00e0 50% de la force maximale. Malheureusement, le backoffice d\u2019Entralpi ne donne pas assez de pr\u00e9cision dans l\u2019ajustement des intensit\u00e9s. Je pense d\u2019ailleurs passer sur Tindeq (voir ce lien<\/a>) rapidement.
\nFin janvier, malgr\u00e9 la forte fatigue qu\u2019elle ressentait lors d\u2019une s\u00e9ance de voie (trop de travail et de d\u00e9placements), il \u00e9tait \u00e9vident qu\u2019elle \u201cmarchait\u201d dans beaucoup de voies. Des voies qui lui auraient paus\u00e9 des probl\u00e8mes auparavant avec un tel \u00e9tat de fatigue. Nous \u00e9tions sur tous les deux certains que sa progression en force doigt \u00e9tait l\u2019explication. Et le test a confirm\u00e9 notre intuition : +25% de force maximum en semi-arqu\u00e9!<\/strong><\/p>\n

Mais pas d\u2019enflammade. Il s\u2019agit d\u2019une adaptation sp\u00e9cifique (un entrainement sp\u00e9cifique entraine in\u00e9vitablement une adaptation sp\u00e9cifique). Elle est provoqu\u00e9e et mesur\u00e9e via un protocole de tirage et non de suspension.<\/strong> Pour ceux que ce sujet int\u00e9resse, voir ce lien de trainingbeta.com<\/a> (solide ce Tyler Nelson!).
\nEt pourtant, cette adaptation a des r\u00e9percutions \u00e9videntes sur le niveau de grimpe de Kirsten. Malgr\u00e9 des exercices r\u00e9alis\u00e9s \u00e0 une faible intensit\u00e9, sans accumulation de fatigue.<\/strong> Si le niveau de force maximale augmente, cela est permis en grande partie \u00e0 un apprentissage de la position des doigts, de la coordination inter-musculaire, d’un d\u00e9but de renforcement des structures, etc. Les param\u00e8tres habituels que nous travaillons, de force musculaire et de recrutement, ne sont pas les seuls responsables de cette rapide progression (si \u00e7a vous int\u00e9resse, voir ce lien<\/a>). Il reste encore beaucoup de travail \u00e0 r\u00e9aliser en s’appuyant sur cette premi\u00e8re base.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"entrainement<\/a>
Entrainement monodoigt avec la plateforme Entralpi. 50% de la force maximale, s\u00e9ries de 20″.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\n

Ma conclusion \u00e0 ce rapide retour d\u2019exp\u00e9rience est la suivante. Lorsque que vous avez d\u00e9termin\u00e9 un point faible dans votre grimpe, il faut \u00e9videmment s\u2019en occuper. Cela doit se faire de mani\u00e8re douce, progressive et intelligente<\/strong> (voir cet article sur la zone de confort<\/a>). Il faut laisser le temps au corps de s\u2019adapter, d\u2019assimiler la nouveaut\u00e9 et ainsi \u00e9viter la blessure. Il faut \u00e9galement laisser le temps \u00e0 la \u201ct\u00eate \u201cd\u2019apprendre, et de d\u00e9velopper la confiance.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Si je ne suis pas bon en dalle, je ne vais pas n\u2019essayer que des pieds mains horribles sur des rasoirs jusqu\u2019\u00e0 en pleurer. Je vais plut\u00f4t grimper des circuits de bloc abordables en dalle en me concentrant sur mes sensations. Je vais chercher \u00e0 apprendre et comprendre, \u00e0 me faire plaisir. Si je ne tiens pas les plats, je ne vais pas faire 3 s\u00e9ances d\u2019anneaux sur les pieds par semaine et me lester sur la poutre avec des suspensions de 5 secondes en allant jusqu\u2019\u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9chec<\/a>. Je vais opter pour une strat\u00e9gie plus intelligente et globale avec du renforcement musculaire \u00e9quilibr\u00e9, du travail technique associ\u00e9 \u00e0 une d\u00e9veloppement de la confiance en soi et du plaisir de grimper dans ce style de grimpe particulier<\/p>\n

Je commence par apprendre les bases en misant sur la quantit\u00e9, la facilit\u00e9 et la bienveillance envers moi-m\u00eame. La progression sera donc effectivement rapide au d\u00e9but car la marge de progression est grande. C\u2019est valorisant et cela apporte des progr\u00e8s p\u00e9rennes, assimil\u00e9s, stabilis\u00e9s, sur lesquels on peut ensuite construire. Sans vouloir sauter les \u00e9tapes. Ce qui est vite gagn\u00e9… se perd vite!
\nEt donc cela me semble \u00ab\u00a0limite\u201d d\u2019affirmer qu\u2019un vrai point faible peut \u00eatre effac\u00e9 en quelques semaines en sortant la carte bleue devant un \u00e9cran. Puis ensuite on n\u2019en parle plus! C\u2019est faux dans la plupart des cas.<\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Lorsque que vous avez d\u00e9termin\u00e9 un point faible dans votre grimpe, il faut \u00e9videmment s\u2019en occuper. Cela doit se faire de mani\u00e8re douce, progressive et intelligente.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":22524,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"colormag_page_container_layout":"default_layout","colormag_page_sidebar_layout":"default_layout","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[6,9,4,58],"tags":[309,31,17,258,308,83],"class_list":["post-22528","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-entrainement-escalade","category-coup-de-gueule","category-escalade","category-mes-sorties","tag-doigts","tag-entrainement","tag-escalade","tag-force","tag-mental","tag-progression"],"yoast_head":"\n+25% force doigt en semi-arqu\u00e9 ? 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Revenons-y car il r\u00e9apparait dans l\u2019actualit\u00e9 et le marketing. Que vaut cette m\u00e9thode ? Faut-il l\u2019utiliser ? 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Mais les facteurs de blessure sont souvent pluriels. 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Fatigu\u00e9 mentalement, physiquement? En force, en endurance? Ou finalement d\u00e9sentrain\u00e9? 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