{"id":22430,"date":"2022-12-22T13:54:11","date_gmt":"2022-12-22T12:54:11","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/?p=22430"},"modified":"2024-07-29T12:39:19","modified_gmt":"2024-07-29T10:39:19","slug":"grimper-selon-forme-jour","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/grimper-selon-forme-jour\/","title":{"rendered":"Grimper selon la forme du jour"},"content":{"rendered":"

On a beau avoir la planification la plus complexe et compl\u00e8te possible, la batterie d\u2019exercices la plus exhaustive qui soit, on encore passez sa vie sur Youtube, on ne devient pas devin pour autant. Chaque s\u00e9ance doit \u00eatre r\u00e9alis\u00e9e ou modifi\u00e9e en fonction de l\u2019\u00e9tat de forme du jour.<\/strong><\/p>\n

C\u2019est \u00e9galement valable si votre pratique est plus ax\u00e9e sur le loisir. Surtout quand il faut concilier la vie professionnelle, familiale, l\u2019\u00e2ge, etc.<\/p>\n

\n
Pourquoi s\u2019entrainer selon la forme du jour ?<\/strong><\/u><\/h5>\n

Certains, trop nombreux, sont encore de la vieille \u00e9cole du \u201cno pain no gain\u201d, c\u2019est \u00e0 dire s\u2019entrainer \u00e0 la dure coute que coute, peu importe la forme du jour. L\u2019id\u00e9e \u00e9tant d\u2019accumuler de la fatigue. On sait d\u00e9sormais que c\u2019est inefficace, contre-productif et voir m\u00eame dangereux (blessures, fatigues chroniques, d\u00e9motivation, …)<\/strong>. J\u2019ai d\u00e9j\u00e0 \u00e9crit un article \u00e0 ce sujet (voir ce lien<\/a>). <\/p>\n

L\u2019entrainement ne doit pas \u00eatre vu comme une accumulation de fatigue, mais au contraire comme un art de la gestion de la r\u00e9cup\u00e9ration.<\/strong> Et pourtant, je suis t\u00e9moin tr\u00e8s tr\u00e8s fr\u00e9quemment de grimpeurs fatigu\u00e9s qui se martyrisent en s\u2019imposant une s\u00e9ance dure m\u00eame s\u2019ils ne tiennent pas les prises en fin d\u2019\u00e9chauffement.<\/strong> <\/p>\n

Chaque s\u00e9ance doit \u00eatre pens\u00e9e en fonction du temps de r\u00e9cup\u00e9ration estim\u00e9 apr\u00e8s celle-ci. Cela ne peut pas \u00eatre fait sans tenir compte de l\u2019\u00e9ventuelle fatigue du jour.<\/strong> <\/p>\n

Heureusement cette probl\u00e9matique cruciale de l\u2019entrainement a aussi son versant ensoleill\u00e9 : les s\u00e9ances o\u00f9 l\u2019on se sent plus fort ! L\u00e0 aussi, il peut \u00eatre int\u00e9ressant d\u2019adapter la s\u00e9ance sur le vif pour maximiser les progr\u00e8s.<\/p>\n

Comment estimer son niveau de forme ? <\/strong><\/u><\/h5>\n

Voici comme je fonctionne. C\u2019est \u00e9videmment contestable ! Mais j\u2019utilise ce syst\u00e8me simple depuis 3 ans et j\u2019en suis satisfait.<\/p>\n

Niveau 0 :<\/u><\/strong>
\nMalade, bless\u00e9… Pas de grimpe ! <\/strong>
\n Niveau 1 : <\/u><\/strong>
\nFatigu\u00e9 et\/ou une petite douleur qui n\u2019est pas g\u00eanante et ne s\u2019aggrave pas. <\/strong>
\n Niveau 2 : <\/u><\/strong>
\nNiveau de forme habituel. <\/strong>
\n Niveau 3: <\/u><\/strong>
\nTu p\u00e8tes le feu !<\/strong><\/p>\n

Ce niveau de forme est \u00e0 estimer en fin d\u2019\u00e9chauffement.<\/strong> S\u2019il le faut, apr\u00e8s un \u00e9chauffement plus long que pr\u00e9vu. J\u2019ai bien \u00e9crit estimer, car je consid\u00e8re qu\u2019un grimpeur, avec un minimum de v\u00e9cu dans sa pratique, peut parvenir \u00e0 d\u00e9terminer son niveau de forme du jour par rapport \u00e0 ses sensations. Des sensations principalement dans la tenue de prises et la fatigabilit\u00e9 de ses avant-bras.
\nUn test de suspensions sur une poutre, ou de tractions, on encore un passage dans une voie, un circuit ou un bloc connu, fonctionnent \u00e9galement tr\u00e8s bien si le grimpeur a besoin de rep\u00e8res plus nets. <\/p>\n

J\u2019aime aussi utiliser le crit\u00e8re \u201cenvie de grimper\u201d, l\u00e0 aussi sur une \u00e9chelle de 0 \u00e0 3. Fatigue psychologique et fatigue du corps sont souvent corr\u00e9l\u00e9s m\u00eame s\u2019ils ne suivent pas forc\u00e9ment la m\u00eame temporalit\u00e9. <\/p>\n

Vous remarquerez que je n\u2019utilise pas de demi-niveaux<\/strong>. Cela limite le risque de pouvoir se mentir et de biaiser le filtre. Sois-tu es en forme, sois-tu ne l\u2019es pas !<\/strong><\/p>\n

Adapter la s\u00e9ance et les suivantes <\/strong><\/u><\/h5>\n

Une fois qu\u2019on a une id\u00e9e de son niveau de forme du jour, qu\u2019en fait-on?<\/p>\n

Niveau 0 :<\/u> <\/strong>
\nPas de grimpe !<\/strong>
\n Niveau 1 : <\/u> <\/strong>
\nUne s\u00e9ance facile est indispensable.<\/strong> L\u2019id\u00e9al sera de faire des voies faciles, par s\u00e9ries de 2 ou 3 \u00e0 la suite si vous \u00eates en indoor. C\u2019est l\u2019occasion de se focaliser sur la respiration (voir ici<\/a>), le rel\u00e2chement et la pr\u00e9cision. Sans se fatiguer les avant-bras.
\nSi vous \u00eates sur un secteur de bloc, ou dans une salle de bloc, enchainez un maximum de blocs faciles. L\u00e0 aussi c\u2019est l\u2019occasion de travailler la respiration, le rel\u00e2chement et la pr\u00e9cision. Toujours sans se fatiguer les avant-bras.
\n Niveau 2 : <\/u> <\/strong>
\nOn reste sur ce qui \u00e9tait pr\u00e9vu.<\/strong>
\n Niveau 3: <\/u><\/strong>
\nC\u2019est paradoxalement la situation la plus d\u00e9licate \u00e0 g\u00e9rer!
\nSi vous aviez pr\u00e9vu une s\u00e9ance facile, cela peut \u00eatre enthousiasmant d\u2019aller grimper \u00e0 son niveau max ou supra-max.<\/strong> C’est l’occasion de pousser les limites!
\nCela peut \u00eatre \u00e9galement l\u2019occasion r\u00eav\u00e9e de durcir la s\u00e9ance pr\u00e9vue en faisant plus dur ou en augmentant la quantit\u00e9. Evitez d\u2019augmenter les 2 param\u00e8tres en m\u00eame temps !<\/strong><\/p>\n

J\u2019ai \u00e9galement pour habitude de consid\u00e9rer qu\u2019\u00e0 partir de 2 s\u00e9ances au niveau de forme 1, il faut:<\/strong>
\n– se poser des questions sur ce qui a \u00e9t\u00e9 fait pr\u00e9c\u00e9demment<\/strong>
\n– adapter la suite en privil\u00e9giant la r\u00e9cup\u00e9ration. <\/strong>
\nC\u2019est un point vraiment IMPORTANT dans ma m\u00e9thode de travail.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\n

J\u2019aurais pu intituler cet article \u201cs\u2019entrainer selon la forme du jour\u201d, car d\u00e8s qu\u2019on s\u2019organise, on s\u2019entraine. On ne pratique plus simplement. Ce qui est tr\u00e8s bien et ne doit pas faire peur. Cela ne veut pas dire, bien au contraire, qu\u2019on doit laisser le plaisir de c\u00f4t\u00e9. Cela signifie simplement qu\u2019on d\u00e9finit des objectifs, une organisation de sa pratique pour les atteindre, et surtout qu\u2019on adapte chaque s\u00e9ance pr\u00e9vue au contexte et \u00e0 la forme du jour. Tout \u00e7a pour profiter au mieux de sa passion.<\/p>\n

Alors \u00e9coutez-vous au jour le jour. Notez vos s\u00e9ances (on en reparlera). Apprenez \u00e0 vous connaitre. Grimpez pour vous, pas pour les autres ni pour l\u2019image que vous souhaiteriez leur envoyer. Vous progresserez et vous \u00e9panouirez via ce mode de vie qui est plus qu\u2019un sport.<\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

On a beau avoir la planification la plus complexe et compl\u00e8te possible, la batterie d\u2019exercices la plus exhaustive qui soit, passez sa vie sur Youtube, on ne devient pas devin pour autant. Chaque s\u00e9ance doit \u00eatre r\u00e9alis\u00e9e ou modifi\u00e9e en fonction de l\u2019\u00e9tat de forme du jour.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":22432,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"colormag_page_container_layout":"default_layout","colormag_page_sidebar_layout":"default_layout","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[6,4],"tags":[31,17,246,304,303],"class_list":["post-22430","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-entrainement-escalade","category-escalade","tag-entrainement","tag-escalade","tag-fatigue","tag-forme-du-jour","tag-niveau-de-forme"],"yoast_head":"\nGrimper selon la forme du jour - Grimpisme, entrainement escalade<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Malgr\u00e9 la planification la plus compl\u00e8te possible, chaque doit \u00eatre r\u00e9alis\u00e9e ou modifi\u00e9e en fonction de l\u2019\u00e9tat de forme du jour.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/grimper-selon-forme-jour\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Grimper selon la forme du jour - Grimpisme, entrainement escalade\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Malgr\u00e9 la planification la plus compl\u00e8te possible, chaque doit \u00eatre r\u00e9alis\u00e9e ou modifi\u00e9e en fonction de l\u2019\u00e9tat de forme du jour.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/grimper-selon-forme-jour\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\/moniteur escalade\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/grimpisme\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:author\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/fredCaillouXvionnet\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2022-12-22T12:54:11+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2024-07-29T10:39:19+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/P1030521.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"1500\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"1125\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Fred Vionnet\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"\u00c9crit par\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Fred Vionnet\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Dur\u00e9e de lecture estim\u00e9e\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"5 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/grimper-selon-forme-jour\\\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/grimper-selon-forme-jour\\\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Fred Vionnet\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/e0e0520aa48cfda56ae5406c2fe2caeb\"},\"headline\":\"Grimper selon la forme du jour\",\"datePublished\":\"2022-12-22T12:54:11+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2024-07-29T10:39:19+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/grimper-selon-forme-jour\\\/\"},\"wordCount\":963,\"commentCount\":0,\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/#organization\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/grimper-selon-forme-jour\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2022\\\/12\\\/P1030521.jpg\",\"keywords\":[\"entrainement\",\"escalade\",\"fatigue\",\"forme du jour\",\"niveau de forme\"],\"articleSection\":[\"Conseils entrainement escalade\",\"Escalade\"],\"inLanguage\":\"fr-FR\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"CommentAction\",\"name\":\"Comment\",\"target\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/grimper-selon-forme-jour\\\/#respond\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/grimper-selon-forme-jour\\\/\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/grimper-selon-forme-jour\\\/\",\"name\":\"Grimper selon la forme du jour - Grimpisme, entrainement escalade\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/#website\"},\"primaryImageOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/grimper-selon-forme-jour\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/grimper-selon-forme-jour\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2022\\\/12\\\/P1030521.jpg\",\"datePublished\":\"2022-12-22T12:54:11+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2024-07-29T10:39:19+00:00\",\"description\":\"Malgr\u00e9 la planification la plus compl\u00e8te possible, chaque doit \u00eatre r\u00e9alis\u00e9e ou modifi\u00e9e en fonction de l\u2019\u00e9tat de forme du jour.\",\"breadcrumb\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/grimper-selon-forme-jour\\\/#breadcrumb\"},\"inLanguage\":\"fr-FR\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"ReadAction\",\"target\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/grimper-selon-forme-jour\\\/\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"ImageObject\",\"inLanguage\":\"fr-FR\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/grimper-selon-forme-jour\\\/#primaryimage\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2022\\\/12\\\/P1030521.jpg\",\"contentUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2022\\\/12\\\/P1030521.jpg\",\"width\":1500,\"height\":1125,\"caption\":\"entrainement escalade ceuse\"},{\"@type\":\"BreadcrumbList\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/grimper-selon-forme-jour\\\/#breadcrumb\",\"itemListElement\":[{\"@type\":\"ListItem\",\"position\":1,\"name\":\"Accueil\",\"item\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/\"},{\"@type\":\"ListItem\",\"position\":2,\"name\":\"Grimper selon la forme du jour\"}]},{\"@type\":\"WebSite\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/#website\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/\",\"name\":\"L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\\\/moniteur escalade\",\"description\":\"Coaching et entrainement escalade. Buoux, C\u00e9\u00fcse et Fontainebleau.\",\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/#organization\"},\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"SearchAction\",\"target\":{\"@type\":\"EntryPoint\",\"urlTemplate\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/?s={search_term_string}\"},\"query-input\":{\"@type\":\"PropertyValueSpecification\",\"valueRequired\":true,\"valueName\":\"search_term_string\"}}],\"inLanguage\":\"fr-FR\"},{\"@type\":\"Organization\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/#organization\",\"name\":\"L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\\\/moniteur escalade\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/\",\"logo\":{\"@type\":\"ImageObject\",\"inLanguage\":\"fr-FR\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/logo\\\/image\\\/\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2026\\\/04\\\/logo-wp-AL-avril-2026-1.jpg\",\"contentUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2026\\\/04\\\/logo-wp-AL-avril-2026-1.jpg\",\"width\":1955,\"height\":902,\"caption\":\"L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\\\/moniteur escalade\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/logo\\\/image\\\/\"},\"sameAs\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/www.facebook.com\\\/grimpisme\\\/\",\"https:\\\/\\\/www.instagram.com\\\/grimpisme\\\/\",\"https:\\\/\\\/www.linkedin.com\\\/in\\\/fred-vionnet-6284b96a\\\/\",\"https:\\\/\\\/fr.pinterest.com\\\/grimpisme\\\/\",\"https:\\\/\\\/www.youtube.com\\\/@grimpisme\"]},{\"@type\":\"Person\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/e0e0520aa48cfda56ae5406c2fe2caeb\",\"name\":\"Fred Vionnet\",\"image\":{\"@type\":\"ImageObject\",\"inLanguage\":\"fr-FR\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/secure.gravatar.com\\\/avatar\\\/a2f6c5fc695da895033dcd95afaa6aeda795d5122ab3a22a03e24aab7f3d96a6?s=96&d=blank&r=g\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/secure.gravatar.com\\\/avatar\\\/a2f6c5fc695da895033dcd95afaa6aeda795d5122ab3a22a03e24aab7f3d96a6?s=96&d=blank&r=g\",\"contentUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/secure.gravatar.com\\\/avatar\\\/a2f6c5fc695da895033dcd95afaa6aeda795d5122ab3a22a03e24aab7f3d96a6?s=96&d=blank&r=g\",\"caption\":\"Fred Vionnet\"},\"description\":\"Coach escalade en Haute Savoie. Pas contre une grande voie non plus. Mais on va \u00e0 C\u00e9\u00fcse, Fontainebleau, Buoux ou encore les Gorges du Verdon quand vous voulez.\",\"sameAs\":[\"http:\\\/\\\/www.grimpisme.com\",\"https:\\\/\\\/www.facebook.com\\\/fredCaillouXvionnet\",\"https:\\\/\\\/www.linkedin.com\\\/profile\\\/preview?vpa=pub&locale=fr_FR\",\"https:\\\/\\\/fr.pinterest.com\\\/grimpisme\\\/\",\"https:\\\/\\\/www.youtube.com\\\/user\\\/grimpisme\",\"https:\\\/\\\/soundcloud.com\\\/fredvionnet\"],\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/author\\\/fred\\\/\"}]}<\/script>\n<!-- \/ Yoast SEO plugin. -->","yoast_head_json":{"title":"Grimper selon la forme du jour - Grimpisme, entrainement escalade","description":"Malgr\u00e9 la planification la plus compl\u00e8te possible, chaque doit \u00eatre r\u00e9alis\u00e9e ou modifi\u00e9e en fonction de l\u2019\u00e9tat de forme du jour.","robots":{"index":"index","follow":"follow","max-snippet":"max-snippet:-1","max-image-preview":"max-image-preview:large","max-video-preview":"max-video-preview:-1"},"canonical":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/grimper-selon-forme-jour\/","og_locale":"fr_FR","og_type":"article","og_title":"Grimper selon la forme du jour - Grimpisme, entrainement escalade","og_description":"Malgr\u00e9 la planification la plus compl\u00e8te possible, chaque doit \u00eatre r\u00e9alis\u00e9e ou modifi\u00e9e en fonction de l\u2019\u00e9tat de forme du jour.","og_url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/grimper-selon-forme-jour\/","og_site_name":"L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\/moniteur escalade","article_publisher":"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/grimpisme\/","article_author":"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/fredCaillouXvionnet","article_published_time":"2022-12-22T12:54:11+00:00","article_modified_time":"2024-07-29T10:39:19+00:00","og_image":[{"width":1500,"height":1125,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/P1030521.jpg","type":"image\/jpeg"}],"author":"Fred Vionnet","twitter_card":"summary_large_image","twitter_misc":{"\u00c9crit par":"Fred Vionnet","Dur\u00e9e de lecture estim\u00e9e":"5 minutes"},"schema":{"@context":"https:\/\/schema.org","@graph":[{"@type":"Article","@id":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/grimper-selon-forme-jour\/#article","isPartOf":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/grimper-selon-forme-jour\/"},"author":{"name":"Fred Vionnet","@id":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/#\/schema\/person\/e0e0520aa48cfda56ae5406c2fe2caeb"},"headline":"Grimper selon la forme du jour","datePublished":"2022-12-22T12:54:11+00:00","dateModified":"2024-07-29T10:39:19+00:00","mainEntityOfPage":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/grimper-selon-forme-jour\/"},"wordCount":963,"commentCount":0,"publisher":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/#organization"},"image":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/grimper-selon-forme-jour\/#primaryimage"},"thumbnailUrl":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/P1030521.jpg","keywords":["entrainement","escalade","fatigue","forme du jour","niveau de forme"],"articleSection":["Conseils entrainement escalade","Escalade"],"inLanguage":"fr-FR","potentialAction":[{"@type":"CommentAction","name":"Comment","target":["https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/grimper-selon-forme-jour\/#respond"]}]},{"@type":"WebPage","@id":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/grimper-selon-forme-jour\/","url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/grimper-selon-forme-jour\/","name":"Grimper selon la forme du jour - Grimpisme, entrainement escalade","isPartOf":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/#website"},"primaryImageOfPage":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/grimper-selon-forme-jour\/#primaryimage"},"image":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/grimper-selon-forme-jour\/#primaryimage"},"thumbnailUrl":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/P1030521.jpg","datePublished":"2022-12-22T12:54:11+00:00","dateModified":"2024-07-29T10:39:19+00:00","description":"Malgr\u00e9 la planification la plus compl\u00e8te possible, chaque doit \u00eatre r\u00e9alis\u00e9e ou modifi\u00e9e en fonction de l\u2019\u00e9tat de forme du jour.","breadcrumb":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/grimper-selon-forme-jour\/#breadcrumb"},"inLanguage":"fr-FR","potentialAction":[{"@type":"ReadAction","target":["https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/grimper-selon-forme-jour\/"]}]},{"@type":"ImageObject","inLanguage":"fr-FR","@id":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/grimper-selon-forme-jour\/#primaryimage","url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/P1030521.jpg","contentUrl":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/P1030521.jpg","width":1500,"height":1125,"caption":"entrainement escalade ceuse"},{"@type":"BreadcrumbList","@id":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/grimper-selon-forme-jour\/#breadcrumb","itemListElement":[{"@type":"ListItem","position":1,"name":"Accueil","item":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/"},{"@type":"ListItem","position":2,"name":"Grimper selon la forme du jour"}]},{"@type":"WebSite","@id":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/#website","url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/","name":"L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\/moniteur escalade","description":"Coaching et entrainement escalade. Buoux, C\u00e9\u00fcse et Fontainebleau.","publisher":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/#organization"},"potentialAction":[{"@type":"SearchAction","target":{"@type":"EntryPoint","urlTemplate":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/?s={search_term_string}"},"query-input":{"@type":"PropertyValueSpecification","valueRequired":true,"valueName":"search_term_string"}}],"inLanguage":"fr-FR"},{"@type":"Organization","@id":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/#organization","name":"L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\/moniteur escalade","url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/","logo":{"@type":"ImageObject","inLanguage":"fr-FR","@id":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/#\/schema\/logo\/image\/","url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/logo-wp-AL-avril-2026-1.jpg","contentUrl":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/logo-wp-AL-avril-2026-1.jpg","width":1955,"height":902,"caption":"L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\/moniteur escalade"},"image":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/#\/schema\/logo\/image\/"},"sameAs":["https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/grimpisme\/","https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/grimpisme\/","https:\/\/www.linkedin.com\/in\/fred-vionnet-6284b96a\/","https:\/\/fr.pinterest.com\/grimpisme\/","https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/@grimpisme"]},{"@type":"Person","@id":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/#\/schema\/person\/e0e0520aa48cfda56ae5406c2fe2caeb","name":"Fred Vionnet","image":{"@type":"ImageObject","inLanguage":"fr-FR","@id":"https:\/\/secure.gravatar.com\/avatar\/a2f6c5fc695da895033dcd95afaa6aeda795d5122ab3a22a03e24aab7f3d96a6?s=96&d=blank&r=g","url":"https:\/\/secure.gravatar.com\/avatar\/a2f6c5fc695da895033dcd95afaa6aeda795d5122ab3a22a03e24aab7f3d96a6?s=96&d=blank&r=g","contentUrl":"https:\/\/secure.gravatar.com\/avatar\/a2f6c5fc695da895033dcd95afaa6aeda795d5122ab3a22a03e24aab7f3d96a6?s=96&d=blank&r=g","caption":"Fred Vionnet"},"description":"Coach escalade en Haute Savoie. Pas contre une grande voie non plus. Mais on va \u00e0 C\u00e9\u00fcse, Fontainebleau, Buoux ou encore les Gorges du Verdon quand vous voulez.","sameAs":["http:\/\/www.grimpisme.com","https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/fredCaillouXvionnet","https:\/\/www.linkedin.com\/profile\/preview?vpa=pub&locale=fr_FR","https:\/\/fr.pinterest.com\/grimpisme\/","https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/user\/grimpisme","https:\/\/soundcloud.com\/fredvionnet"],"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/author\/fred\/"}]}},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/P1030521.jpg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p68Rw6-5PM","jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":26814,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/objectifs-echauffement-escalade\/","url_meta":{"origin":22430,"position":0},"title":"TOUS les objectifs d\u2019un \u00e9chauffement en escalade","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"21 f\u00e9vrier 2025","format":false,"excerpt":"S'\u00e9chauffer en escalade. C'est aussi pour conna\u00eetre son \u00e9tat de forme physique et mental du jour. Et adapter le contenu de la s\u00e9ance si besoin.","rel":"","context":"Dans "Conseils entrainement escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Conseils entrainement escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/entrainement-escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"escalade bloc entrainement","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/12\/IMG_4299.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/12\/IMG_4299.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/12\/IMG_4299.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/12\/IMG_4299.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":24914,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/fatigue-entrainement-escalade\/","url_meta":{"origin":22430,"position":1},"title":"[RETOUR D\u2019EXPERIENCE] Entrainement escalade: fatigue(s) mentale, ou physique?","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"23 mai 2024","format":false,"excerpt":"Lorsque qu'on suit un entrainement en escalade, il n'est pas toujours facile de d\u00e9terminer quelle(s) fatigue(s) on ressent, et quelles en sont les causes. Fatigu\u00e9 mentalement, physiquement? En force, en endurance? Ou finalement d\u00e9sentrain\u00e9? Complexe tout \u00e7a!","rel":"","context":"Dans "Conseils entrainement escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Conseils entrainement escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/entrainement-escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"escalade climbing buoux","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/fred-buoux-2.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/fred-buoux-2.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/fred-buoux-2.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/fred-buoux-2.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/fred-buoux-2.jpg?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":11520,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/bi-doigt-et-bi-doigt\/","url_meta":{"origin":22430,"position":2},"title":"Bi-doigt et bi-doigt","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"10 janvier 2010","format":false,"excerpt":"Vu les temp\u00e9ratures actuelles, on n'a pas trop le choix actuellement, soit on s'enferme dans un salle pour bourriner, soit on mange des chocolats devant la t\u00e9l\u00e9. C'est l'occasion de s'entrainer sur la pr\u00e9hension bi-doigt que l'on peut fr\u00e9quemment dans les voies d\u00e8s le niveau 6. Plut\u00f4t que de tirer\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Conseils entrainement escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Conseils entrainement escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/entrainement-escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Bi-doigt en pr\u00e9hension classique (annulaire + majeur)","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/01\/bidoigt_normal-150x150.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":20943,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/menstruations-entrainement\/","url_meta":{"origin":22430,"position":3},"title":"Menstruations, escalade et entrainement","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"14 juin 2021","format":false,"excerpt":"Menstruations, et entrainements. Ces deux th\u00e8mes vont probablement devenir rapidement indissociables dans le monde sportif.","rel":"","context":"Dans "Conseils entrainement escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Conseils entrainement escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/entrainement-escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"escalade mortenaz","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/DJI_0036.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/DJI_0036.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/DJI_0036.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/DJI_0036.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/06\/DJI_0036.jpg?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":23637,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/retour-experience-sans-blessure\/","url_meta":{"origin":22430,"position":4},"title":"[RETOUR D’EXPERIENCE] 3,5 ans sans blessure…","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"3 octobre 2023","format":false,"excerpt":"Je ne m'\u00e9tais pas bless\u00e9 depuis d\u00e9cembre 2019. Mais en ce mois de mai 2023, j'ai fait plusieurs erreurs conduisant \u00e0 un encha\u00eenement de blessures.","rel":"","context":"Dans "Conseils entrainement escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Conseils entrainement escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/entrainement-escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"blessure escalade","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/irm-1.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/irm-1.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/irm-1.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/irm-1.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":19917,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/entrainement-fatigue\/","url_meta":{"origin":22430,"position":5},"title":"Faut-il s\u2019entra\u00eener malgr\u00e9 la fatigue?","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"14 mars 2021","format":false,"excerpt":"S'entrainer malgr\u00e9 la fatigue... pour \u00eatre encore plus fort. Voil\u00e0 une id\u00e9e encore bien ancr\u00e9e dans le milieu sportif. Mais est-ce r\u00e9ellement efficace?","rel":"","context":"Dans "Conseils entrainement escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Conseils entrainement escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/entrainement-escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"escalade entrainement coaching personnalis\u00e9","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/03\/image1-scaled-1.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/03\/image1-scaled-1.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/03\/image1-scaled-1.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/03\/image1-scaled-1.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/03\/image1-scaled-1.jpg?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/03\/image1-scaled-1.jpg?resize=1400%2C800&ssl=1 4x"},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/22430","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=22430"}],"version-history":[{"count":16,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/22430\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":22447,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/22430\/revisions\/22447"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/22432"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=22430"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=22430"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=22430"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}