{"id":21616,"date":"2022-04-03T09:50:36","date_gmt":"2022-04-03T07:50:36","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/?p=21616"},"modified":"2022-04-24T18:53:02","modified_gmt":"2022-04-24T16:53:02","slug":"contest-competition-escalade","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/contest-competition-escalade\/","title":{"rendered":"[RETOUR D\u2019EXPERIENCE] Une comp\u00e9tition d&rsquo;escalade pour s&rsquo;entrainer et progresser"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>J&rsquo;aime participer quelques fois par saison \u00e0 une <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ffme.fr\/escalade\/competition\/calendrier-officiel-descalade\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">comp\u00e9tition<\/a>. Tout d&rsquo;abord \u00e7a me permet de revoir plein de copains et coll\u00e8gues. Ensuite cela me confronte \u00e0 toutes ces contraintes sp\u00e9cifiques d\u2019organisation, d\u2019\u00e9chauffement, d\u2019isolement, etc, auxquelles sont \u00e9galement confront\u00e9s <a href=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/coaching-escalade\/\">certains grimpeurs que je suis<\/a>. <br \/>\nMais surtout <strong>une comp\u00e9tition peut \u00eatre v\u00e9cue comme une super s\u00e9ance d\u2019entrainement compl\u00e8tement transf\u00e9rable \u00e0 la vraie grimpe en ext\u00e9rieur.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Je n\u2019ai jamais fait de comp\u00e9tition pour \u00eatre le meilleur. Cela n\u2019a jamais \u00e9t\u00e9 ma motivation profonde et premi\u00e8re. Quand j\u2019ai \u00e9t\u00e9 fort en comp\u00e9tition, c\u2019est que j\u2019\u00e9tais fort en falaise. J\u2019ai du mal \u00e0 comprendre l\u2019int\u00e9r\u00eat de vouloir \u00eatre le meilleur. J\u2019ai d\u2019ailleurs l\u2019impression que beaucoup de comp\u00e9titeurs se perdent dans cet objectif contre-productif si il n\u2019est pas d\u00e9clin\u00e9 en des objectifs plus personnels et contr\u00f4lables.<br \/>\nD\u00e9sormais, je pratique aussi \u00e0 une comp\u00e9tition pour m\u2019entrainer \u00e0 la grimpe sur le rocher. <strong>Quand tu mets en essai dans un bloc ou une voie dans ce contexte, les choses sont vraiment diff\u00e9rentes. Tu dois \u00eatre \u00e9chauff\u00e9 au bon moment, avoir lu le passage pour donner le meilleur de toi, optimiser ta confiance en toi (cela commence souvent la veille, voir m\u00eame avant), rester combatif, faire fi du regard des autres, etc. Tu as choisis d\u2019\u00eatre l\u00e0 et l\u2019int\u00e9r\u00eat est de faire au mieux \u00e0 cet instant pr\u00e9sent.<\/strong><br \/>\n<strong>Je trouve que cela se transf\u00e8re tr\u00e8s bien \u00e0 la pr\u00e9paration aux essais dans un projet, qu\u2019il soit apr\u00e8s travail ou \u00e0 vue.<\/strong> On pourrait parler \u00e9galement de l\u2019entrainement par le c\u00f4t\u00e9 physique. Par exemple, \u00e0 l\u2019open r\u00e9gional de Cruseilles hier, j\u2019ai quand m\u00eame fait huit longueurs avec trois gros combats.<\/p>\n<p>Alors n\u2019h\u00e9sitez pas, <strong>inscrivez-vous parfois \u00e0 une comp\u00e9tition locale, ou \u00e0 un contest organis\u00e9 dans l\u2019une des salles o\u00f9 vous vous entrainez r\u00e9guli\u00e8rement. Vous apprendrez beaucoup sur vous-m\u00eame. Cela sera compl\u00e8tement transf\u00e9rable \u00e0 vos essais dans vos projets sur le caillou.<\/strong> Et c\u2019est bien ce qui compte le plus !<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-1' class='gallery galleryid-21616 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-colormag-featured-image'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a title=\"entrainement competition escalade grimpisme\" href='https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/Capture-de\u0301cran-2022-04-03-a\u0300-09.03.38.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"450\" height=\"445\" src=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/Capture-de\u0301cran-2022-04-03-a\u0300-09.03.38.jpg\" class=\"attachment-colormag-featured-image size-colormag-featured-image\" alt=\"entrainement competition escalade grimpisme\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/Capture-de\u0301cran-2022-04-03-a\u0300-09.03.38.jpg 450w, https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/Capture-de\u0301cran-2022-04-03-a\u0300-09.03.38-300x297.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/Capture-de\u0301cran-2022-04-03-a\u0300-09.03.38-400x396.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a title=\"entrainement competition escalade grimpisme\" href='https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/810fe776-9733-4021-92bc-82f8aa5bad67.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"800\" height=\"445\" src=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/810fe776-9733-4021-92bc-82f8aa5bad67-800x445.jpg\" class=\"attachment-colormag-featured-image size-colormag-featured-image\" alt=\"entrainement competition escalade grimpisme\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a title=\"entrainement competition escalade grimpisme\" href='https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/IMG_0832.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"800\" height=\"445\" src=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/04\/IMG_0832-800x445.jpg\" class=\"attachment-colormag-featured-image size-colormag-featured-image\" alt=\"entrainement competition escalade grimpisme\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Inscrivez-vous parfois \u00e0 une comp\u00e9tition locale, ou \u00e0 un contest organis\u00e9 dans l\u2019une des salles o\u00f9 vous vous entrainez r\u00e9guli\u00e8rement. Vous apprendrez beaucoup sur vous-m\u00eame. Cela sera compl\u00e8tement transf\u00e9rable \u00e0 vos essais dans vos projets sur le caillou.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":21614,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"colormag_page_container_layout":"default_layout","colormag_page_sidebar_layout":"default_layout","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[6,4,58],"tags":[101,263,262,31,17,64],"class_list":["post-21616","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-entrainement-escalade","category-escalade","category-mes-sorties","tag-competition","tag-confiance-en-soi","tag-contest","tag-entrainement","tag-escalade","tag-preparation-mentale"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.5 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Une comp\u00e9tition escalade pour s&#039;entrainer et progresser - Grimpisme<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Vous apprendrez beaucoup sur vous-m\u00eame. 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Mais en ce mois de mai 2023, j'ai fait plusieurs erreurs conduisant \u00e0 un encha\u00eenement de blessures.","rel":"","context":"Dans &quot;Conseils entrainement escalade&quot;","block_context":{"text":"Conseils entrainement escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/entrainement-escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"blessure escalade","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/irm-1.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/irm-1.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/irm-1.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/irm-1.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":24914,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/fatigue-entrainement-escalade\/","url_meta":{"origin":21616,"position":1},"title":"[RETOUR D\u2019EXPERIENCE] Entrainement escalade: fatigue(s) mentale, ou physique?","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"23 mai 2024","format":false,"excerpt":"Lorsque qu'on suit un entrainement en escalade, il n'est pas toujours facile de d\u00e9terminer quelle(s) fatigue(s) on ressent, et quelles en sont les causes. Fatigu\u00e9 mentalement, physiquement? En force, en endurance? Ou finalement d\u00e9sentrain\u00e9? 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Sa victoire aux championnats de France 2022 de difficult\u00e9 m'a impressionn\u00e9. Comment Romaric a-t-il construit cette victoire ? 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