{"id":21312,"date":"2022-01-19T15:07:39","date_gmt":"2022-01-19T14:07:39","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/?p=21312"},"modified":"2022-08-16T16:08:08","modified_gmt":"2022-08-16T14:08:08","slug":"avis-livre-entrainement-beastmaking-ned-feehally","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/avis-livre-entrainement-beastmaking-ned-feehally\/","title":{"rendered":"Avis livre entrainement: BEASTMAKING de Ned Feehally"},"content":{"rendered":"

\u00ab\u202fBEASTMAKING \u2013 A finger first approach to becoming a better climber\u201d: voici un titre all\u00e9chant.<\/strong> Son auteur, Ned Feehally<\/a> est un fort bloqueur, un ancien comp\u00e9titeur, un coach, le copain de Shauna Coxsey<\/a>, et l\u2019un des cr\u00e9ateurs de la marque de poutre Beastmaker (beastmaker.co.uk<\/a>).\"beastmaking<\/a> <\/p>\n

La poutre reste (ou revient?) une pratique \u00e0 la mode. Peut \u00eatre est ce d\u00fb aux salles de bloc qui parfois abusent des blocs en \u00e9quilibre et\/ou coordination, \u00e0 l’effet r\u00e9seaux sociaux o\u00f9 l’on aime montrer ses biscottos, ou tout simplement au fait que la force doigt est l’un des facteurs primordiaux de la performance en escalade? Quelques en soient les raisons, voyons si ce livre semblant mettre en avant la force doigt et l’entrainement sur poutre tient ses promesses marketing.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\n
Ce que j’ai aim\u00e9 dans ce livre<\/u><\/h6>\n

La pr\u00e9sentation, la graphisme, la texture de la couverture sont agr\u00e9ables.\"beastmaking<\/a>
\nL’approche moderne de l’entra\u00eenement<\/strong> (on pourrait dire l’approche anglo-saxonne) qui est succinctement \u00e9voqu\u00e9e (nous y reviendrons).
\nDes th\u00e8mes originaux<\/strong> comme la g\u00e9n\u00e9tique et l’anatomie sont abord\u00e9s. C’est frais et \u00e7a ouvre l’esprit. Le chapitre ‘Quick session\u00a0\u00bb est particuli\u00e8rement int\u00e9ressant.
\nBeaucoup d’astuces, de cas concrets rendent le livre pratique, accessible.<\/strong> Certaines r\u00e9flexions montrent l’exp\u00e9rience et la passion de l’auteur.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\n
Ce que je n’ai pas aim\u00e9<\/u><\/h6>\n

Les th\u00e8mes sont nombreux mais superficiellement trait\u00e9s<\/strong>. Le chapitre \u00ab\u00a0Finger Board exercices\u00a0\u00bb d’ailleurs est une sacr\u00e9e blague par sa bri\u00e8vet\u00e9 et la contestabilit\u00e9 de ce qui est pr\u00e9sent\u00e9. Une phrase plus loin m’a particuli\u00e8rement choqu\u00e9: \u00ab\u00a0Tractions lest\u00e9es: c’est simple, lestes toi et tractes\u00a0\u00bb.<\/strong> L’auteur se rattrape dans les FAQ en donnant quelques billes utiles, mais cela ne rattrape pas les manques.<\/p>\n

Des sujets centraux sont tout simplement \u00e9lud\u00e9s dans le livre:<\/strong>
\n– Comment programmer?<\/strong> Quelles sont les grandes m\u00e9thodes?
\n– Faut-il se tester?<\/strong> Comment \u00e9valuer les progr\u00e8s ou au contraire les erreurs?
\n– La puissance<\/strong> n’est \u00e9voqu\u00e9e que par une mention lapidaire de la pliom\u00e9trie. Pourtant l’entrainement VBT (force-vitesse) est le prochain chantier de la pr\u00e9paration physique en escalade<\/strong>. Il est tant que cela sorte.
\n– Faut-il s’entrainer \u00e0 l’\u00e9chec<\/a> ou pas?<\/strong> C’est \u00e0 dire, faut-il r\u00e9ussir les exercices tout le temps, jamais ou parfois? Quelles influences sur la confiance, la fatigue engendr\u00e9e et le risque de blessure?<\/strong>
\n– L’approche des fili\u00e8res \u00e9nerg\u00e9tiques est pr\u00e9historique (ana\u00e9robie, a\u00e9robie, …), c’est scandaleux!<\/strong> Je ne sais plus si il ose parler d’acide lactique… je pr\u00e9f\u00e8re ne pas rev\u00e9rifier! Et pourtant le chapitre sur la r\u00e9si est vraiment \u00e0 lire.<\/p>\n

\n

Pour conclure, revenons au sujet principal. Ce livre parle-t-il de force doigt? La r\u00e9ponse est oui. Mais ce livre parle aussi d’entrainement au sens plus large, pour finalement tout survoler sans entrer r\u00e9ellement au coeur des sujets. Les astuces et cas concrets tr\u00e8s pr\u00e9cis sont int\u00e9ressants mais cela ne suffit pas<\/strong>. Et puis Shauna par ci, Shauna par l\u00e0, cela n’importe pas grand chose…
\nSi vous cherchez un livre r\u00e9ellement d\u00e9di\u00e9 \u00e0 l’entrainement de la force, doigt ou pas, vous serez probablement d\u00e9\u00e7u. C’est d’ailleurs un sujet qui remplirait facilement les 208 pages du livre<\/strong>. Voici donc \u00e0 nouveau un livre plut\u00f4t superficiel, m\u00eame si avec ceux de Eric H\u00f6rst (trainingforclimbing.com<\/a>), c’est l’un des meilleurs que j’ai pu avoir en main. On est largement au dessus des standards fran\u00e7ais de ce qui se fait actuellement, mais l\u00e0 encore si les ingr\u00e9dients sont donn\u00e9s… la recette tu vas la trouver par toi m\u00eame dans les outils g\u00e9n\u00e9raux de pr\u00e9paration physique. Parler d’entrainement quand on est coach, sans dire l’essentiel, c’est pour avoir plus de clients non?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Bref, achetez ce livre pour mettre le nez pour la premi\u00e8re fois dans l’entrainement, puis passez chez \u00e0 Port\u00e9e de Doigts (aporteededoigts.com<\/a>), lisez mes articles<\/a> (j’en ai pour plusieurs ann\u00e9es \u00e0 vous distiller ma m\u00e9thode\/vision), achetez les bons livres de pr\u00e9pa physiques et suivez les bonnes chaines Youtube<\/strong> (je peux donner des liens).<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Voyons si ce livre semblant mettre en avant la force doigt et l\u2019entrainement sur poutre tient ses promesses marketing.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":21311,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"colormag_page_container_layout":"default_layout","colormag_page_sidebar_layout":"default_layout","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[6,1,3],"tags":[254,255,31,17,258,150,256,257],"class_list":["post-21312","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-entrainement-escalade","category-news","category-tests-materiel","tag-avis","tag-beastmaking","tag-entrainement","tag-escalade","tag-force","tag-livre","tag-ned-feehally","tag-poutre"],"yoast_head":"\nAvis livre entrainement escalade BEASTMAKING - 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