{"id":21218,"date":"2021-11-02T17:12:45","date_gmt":"2021-11-02T16:12:45","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/?p=21218"},"modified":"2023-03-02T16:54:44","modified_gmt":"2023-03-02T15:54:44","slug":"experience-mental-plaisir-concentration","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/experience-mental-plaisir-concentration\/","title":{"rendered":"[RETOUR D’EXPERIENCE] Mental = le plaisir pour se concentrer"},"content":{"rendered":"

Voici une nouvelle rubrique d’articles, en test. Il s’agit de vous rapporter des situations concr\u00e8tes et ponctuelles de pratique de l’escalade ou d’entrainement<\/a>. Des situations qui m’ont interpell\u00e9, qui m’ont aid\u00e9 \u00e0 progresser dans ma grimpe et mon travail.<\/strong> J’esp\u00e8re que cela vous int\u00e9ressera.<\/p>\n

Pour cette premi\u00e8re, parlons du plaisir d’\u00eatre simplement l\u00e0 pour se concentrer et grimper librement<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

\"escalade<\/a><\/p>\n

Le plaisir pour \u00eatre dans l’instant pr\u00e9sent<\/strong><\/u><\/h6>\n

Voil\u00e0 une dizaine de jours que nous sommes en vacances dans le sud de la Dr\u00f4me, grimpant souvent \u00e0 Saint L\u00e9ger-du-Ventoux. Je n’ai repris l’entrainement que depuis la fin ao\u00fbt. Malgr\u00e9 un niveau physique encore tr\u00e8s moyen, surtout en r\u00e9si, j’ai r\u00e9ussi \u00e0 bien grimper. Les cotations ne sont pas tr\u00e8s \u00e9lev\u00e9es mais le plaisir, les sensations, le rel\u00e2chement, la confiance sont pr\u00e9sents. Je grimpe lib\u00e9r\u00e9 et je n’h\u00e9site pas \u00e0 m’engager. <\/p>\n

Aujourd’hui c’est le dernier jour pour nous. Nous sommes vraiment fatigu\u00e9s. Les vacances scolaires viennent de commencer et il y a pas mal de monde \u00e0 la falaise. L’ambiance est semblable \u00e0 celle d’un salle d’escalade un jour de mauvais temps: personne ne dit bonjour, les gens sont pr\u00eats \u00e0 te marcher dessus pour avoir LEUR voie d’\u00e9chauffement.
\nBref, je ne suis pas de bonne humeur. Je g\u00e8re mal ma fatigue associ\u00e9e \u00e0 cette ambiance glauque. J’ai les avant-bras explos\u00e9s d\u00e8s la troisi\u00e8me prise moyenne. En redescendant de ce long 7a+ de la face ouest, o\u00f9 je me fais bloquer \u00e0 vue au milieu de la section dure sous le relais, j’ai presque une crampe au biceps gauche.<\/strong> <\/p>\n

Comme un idiot j’ai laiss\u00e9 les d\u00e9gaines pour mettre un essai. Je remonte donc \u00e0 contre-coeur dans la voie. Je suis au repos complet apr\u00e8s les vingt m\u00e8tres d’approche en 6b… et je me demande bien ce que je fous l\u00e0. J’ai d\u00e9j\u00e0 encha\u00een\u00e9 des centaines de voies de ce niveau. Je sais qui si je veux avoir une chance de r\u00e9ussir, je vais devoir \u00eatre efficace, et m\u00eame prendre quelques \u00ab\u00a0risques\u00a0\u00bb. Etant donn\u00e9 mon \u00e9tat de fatigue, je sais \u00e9galement que je vais devoir changer mes m\u00e9thodes sur deux mouvements, sans savoir vraiment comment<\/strong>:
\n – Pour prendre ce bon trou main gauche permettant de clipper, j’ai fait un gros mouvement physique. il va falloir trouver une nouvelle prise pour faire un mouvement suppl\u00e9mentaire, ou prendre une interm\u00e9diaire.
\n– A la sortie de la section dure, avant les trois m\u00e8tres faciles sous le relais, je vais devoir trouver une nouvelle prise de pied gauche pour attraper la r\u00e9glette. J’ai mis mon pied gauche trop haut sur une prise trop plate lors de la premi\u00e8re mont\u00e9e. Etant donn\u00e9 le peu d’\u00e9nergie qu’il me reste dans le moteur, il faut je me place diff\u00e9remment. <\/p>\n

Je suis donc \u00e0 ce repos complet et je me demande pourquoi j’ai laiss\u00e9 les d\u00e9gaines. Et d’un coup la r\u00e9ponse me vient comme une \u00e9vidence: \u00ab\u00a0je suis l\u00e0, je fais \u00e7a parce ce que j’aime \u00e7a et que je l’ai choisi!\u00a0\u00bb. A partir de cet instant, tout se remet en place. Je pars et j’enchaine en grognant pour utiliser le peu de physique qu’il me reste. Avec fluidit\u00e9, intuition et sans distractions. C’est jouissif, peu importe la cotation.<\/strong> <\/p>\n

Dans ma routine de concentration avant un essai, j’appelle , entre autre, ce plaisir d’\u00eatre l\u00e0. A ce repos il m’est revenu, et tout s’est remis en place!<\/strong><\/p>\n

Le plaisir, pour l’entrainement mais aussi la performance<\/u><\/h6>\n

\nOn entend souvent que le plus important est le plaisir. Essayons d’\u00eatre un peu plus pr\u00e9cis:<\/p>\n

– Le plaisir dans l’entrainement, sur la dur\u00e9e pour entretenir la motivation. Il faut \u00e9viter la monotonie, varier les contenus, s’autoriser les erreurs et m\u00e9nager des p\u00e9riodes de d\u00e9compression.<\/strong><\/p>\n

– Le plaisir dans les moments cl\u00e9s, c’est \u00e0 dire avant un essai, que ce soit \u00e0 vue ou dans un projet, ou m\u00eame une comp\u00e9tition. L’enjeu n’est que ce qu’on en fait. Alors, quand le stress ou les pens\u00e9es n\u00e9gatives vous assaillent avant de serrer les deux premi\u00e8res prises, gardez ou appelez ce plaisir si il s’est \u00e9loign\u00e9. Apr\u00e8s tout la grimpe est votre passion, vous vous entrainez pour \u00e7a, r\u00e9servez des vacances pour \u00e7a, alors PROFITEZ! Plaisir et grimpe dans une voie ou \u00e0 bloc tr\u00e8s difficiles ne sont pas antinomiques, m\u00eame si les prises sont toutes petites et les spits trop loins.<\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

L\u2019enjeu n\u2019est que ce qu\u2019on en fait. Alors, quand le stress ou les pens\u00e9es n\u00e9gatives vous assaillent avant de serrer les deux premi\u00e8res prises, gardez ou appelez ce plaisir si il s\u2019est \u00e9loign\u00e9. Apr\u00e8s tout la grimpe est votre passion, vous vous entrainez pour \u00e7a, r\u00e9servez des vacances pour \u00e7a, alors PROFITEZ!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":21205,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"colormag_page_container_layout":"default_layout","colormag_page_sidebar_layout":"default_layout","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[6,4,58],"tags":[244,31,17,246,248,245,247,64],"class_list":["post-21218","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-entrainement-escalade","category-escalade","category-mes-sorties","tag-concentration","tag-entrainement","tag-escalade","tag-fatigue","tag-instant-present","tag-peur","tag-plaisir","tag-preparation-mentale"],"yoast_head":"\nEscalade et mental: le plaisir pour se concentrer - 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