{"id":20874,"date":"2021-05-12T16:52:17","date_gmt":"2021-05-12T14:52:17","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/?p=20874"},"modified":"2021-07-28T19:39:41","modified_gmt":"2021-07-28T17:39:41","slug":"reprendre-escalade-exterieur-apres-covid","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/reprendre-escalade-exterieur-apres-covid\/","title":{"rendered":"Reprendre la grimpe en ext\u00e9rieur apr\u00e8s la crise du COVID"},"content":{"rendered":"

Nous sommes tr\u00e8s nombreux \u00e0 avoir peu ou pas grimp\u00e9 durant les 6 derniers mois en raison des interdictions COVID. Ainsi, cette ann\u00e9e la reprise risque de s’av\u00e9rer plus compliqu\u00e9e que d’habitude. <\/strong>Il est n\u00e9anmoins grand temps de reprendre la grimpe en ext\u00e9rieur (la vraie, sur le rocher), mais sur de bonnes bases<\/strong>. <\/p>\n

Vous \u00eates peut \u00eatre dans l’un des deux cas de figures suivant:<\/u>
\n– Quasi pas de grimpe ni d’entrainement durant les derniers mois.
\n– Beaucoup d’entrainement physique durant l’hiver (gainage, renforcement musculaire, tractions, entrainements sur poutre, …), mais pas de grimpe.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Pour ma part, je suis dans le deuxi\u00e8me cas. De la force, du physique, mais dehors cela ne suffit pas. Voici quelques conseils pour que ce retour sur le rocher se passe du mieux possible.<\/strong> Certains seront applicables au bloc comme \u00e0 la falaise. Certains uniquement \u00e0 la falaise.<\/p>\n

\n
Patience<\/u><\/h6>\n

\nFaites beaucoup de voies (ou de blocs) faciles. Cela peut \u00eatre en t\u00eate comme en moulinette, peu importe, chacun son rythme de reprise.<\/strong> Ne c\u00e9dez pas \u00e0 la pression des coll\u00e8gues qui veulent vous faire sauter des \u00e9tapes alors que vous n’\u00eates pas pr\u00eat(e). La grimpe, surtout en ext\u00e9rieur, est avant tout une question de confiance et se sensations.<\/strong>
\nLorsque la forme semble revenir, comme c’est souvent le cas apr\u00e8s 4 ou 5 s\u00e9ances, ne vous empressez pas de monter dans les cotations.<\/strong> Ou alors le pic de forme risque d’\u00eatre \u00e9ph\u00e9m\u00e8re. Continuer \u00e0 privil\u00e9gier la quantit\u00e9 \u00e0 la cotation. C’est \u00eatre intelligent, et pas peureux.<\/strong> <\/p>\n

Technique<\/u><\/h6>\n

\nDonc faire beaucoup, dans le facile, mais le faire bien. Appliquez-vous \u00e0 grimper sur les pieds, et privil\u00e9giez les petits pas en vous concentrant sur l’utilisation de petites prises de pieds, voir tr\u00e8s petites.<\/strong> M\u00eame si cela vous parait exag\u00e9r\u00e9 par moment d’utiliser 3 prises de pieds plut\u00f4t qu’une, cela vous permettra de reprendre des sensations.
\nQuand les prises de pieds seront r\u00e9ellement toutes petites, et pas par choix, alors vous ne serez pas d\u00e9stabilis\u00e9(e)<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

Lecture<\/u><\/h6>\n

\nOn oublie les mauvaises habitudes du plastique et on ne grimpe pas t\u00eate baiss\u00e9e. Il faut \u00e0 tout prix \u00e9viter d’attraper une prise de main sans avoir pr\u00e9vu quoi faire ensuite.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Faire les choses dans l’ordre, des choses simples:<\/u>
\n-1- Je regarde les prises de mains possibles sur les prochains m\u00e8tres<\/strong>, et j’imagine les mouvements que je vais faire.
\n-2- Je d\u00e9cortique toutes les prises de pieds utilisables entre la hauteur de mes genoux et celle de mes yeux.<\/strong> Sans oublier de regarder \u00e0 gauche, \u00e0 droite, et devant les genoux (elles se cachent souvent l\u00e0 les coquines).
\n-3- Se lancer dans la s\u00e9quence de mouvement.\n<\/p>\n

Respiration<\/u><\/h6>\n

Et surtout, ce qui pourrait \u00eatre le petit 3 du chapitre pr\u00e9c\u00e9dent, on respire! On \u00e9vite un maximum la crispation. Si le pareur ou l’assureur peut vous le rappeler, c’est encore mieux.<\/strong> J’ai \u00e9crit un article<\/a> \u00e0 ce sujet en octobre dernier.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Quelques conseils pour que le retour sur le rocher se passer du mieux possible apr\u00e8s une longue interruption.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":20798,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"colormag_page_container_layout":"default_layout","colormag_page_sidebar_layout":"default_layout","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[6,4],"tags":[32,188,31,17,86,227,226],"class_list":["post-20874","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-entrainement-escalade","category-escalade","tag-bloc","tag-covid","tag-entrainement","tag-escalade","tag-falaise","tag-reprise","tag-rocher"],"yoast_head":"\nReprendre la grimpe en ext\u00e9rieur apr\u00e8s la crise du COVID - 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Nous prenons le temps de parler pr\u00e9cis\u00e9ment d'entra\u00eenement en escalade, de mon travail d'entraineur ou coach. Et je d\u00e9voile beaucoup d'informations sur ma m\u00e9thode d'entra\u00eenement.","rel":"","context":"Dans "Conseils entrainement escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Conseils entrainement escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/entrainement-escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"podcast entrainement escalade grimpe","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/ascension-grimpe.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":15533,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/notions-entrainement-physique-escalade\/","url_meta":{"origin":20874,"position":1},"title":"Quelques notions d’entrainement physique en escalade","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"14 mars 2018","format":false,"excerpt":"Voici une synth\u00e8se de quelques notions de base concernant l\u2019entrainement physique en escalade. Il faut toujours avoir en t\u00eate que le physique ne fait pas tout, loin de l\u00e0. Le meilleur grimpeur est rarement le grimpeur le plus fort. 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Un grand projet qui se concr\u00e9tise! 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