{"id":20732,"date":"2021-03-22T09:37:02","date_gmt":"2021-03-22T08:37:02","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/?p=20732"},"modified":"2021-10-11T17:12:18","modified_gmt":"2021-10-11T15:12:18","slug":"video-rats-sous-marins-baptiste-dherbilly","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/video-rats-sous-marins-baptiste-dherbilly\/","title":{"rendered":"Vid\u00e9o d&rsquo;un tr\u00e8s vieux projet: \u00ab\u00a0Les Rats Sous-marins\u00a0\u00bb (9a?) par Baptiste Dherbilly"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>J&rsquo;ai beaucoup grimp\u00e9 sur les falaises de la vall\u00e9e du Risse. Gr\u00e2ce \u00e0 l&rsquo;aide de l&rsquo;\u00e9quipeur de beaucoup de voies de cette vall\u00e9e (Bernard Giraud), j&rsquo;y avais m\u00eame \u00e9quip\u00e9 2 voies durant le d\u00e9but des ann\u00e9es 90. L&rsquo;une dans le superbe mur du Cruz: \u00ab\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.escalade-74.com\/enfifrine-enfifre-7cplus-8a\/\" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Enfifrine Enfifre<\/a>\u00ab\u00a0. L&rsquo;autre \u00e0 Bellosset: \u00ab\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.escalade-74.com\/les-chats-souterrains-8a\/\" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Les chats Sous-Terrains<\/a>\u00ab\u00a0.<\/p>\n<p>Ces 2 voies valent environ 8a. <strong>A droite des \u00ab\u00a0Chats\u00a0\u00bb, se trouve une tr\u00e8s belle ligne, un mur se prolongeant en pilier pour finir en dalle. J&rsquo;y avais mis quelques points de travail. les prises \u00e9taient juste o\u00f9 il fallait, mais la cotation serait au minimum de 8c sans aucuns doutes. Je me souviens vaguement les tenir \u00e0 peu pr\u00eat toutes, sans pour autant pouvoir bouger entre elles.<\/strong><br \/>\nPuis j&rsquo;ai tr\u00e8s peu grimp\u00e9 pendant de nombreuses ann\u00e9es, privil\u00e9giant la montagne, le ski et les voyages (soyons franc, l&rsquo;esprit du milieu comp\u00e9titif franco-fran\u00e7ais dans lequel j&rsquo;\u00e9voluais m&rsquo;avais d\u00e9gout\u00e9 de ce sport). <strong>Des copains (<a href=\"http:\/\/rockandwalk.fr\/\" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Steph Meillat<\/a> et David Bron) ont fini d&rsquo;\u00e9quiper la voie, le nom que j&rsquo;avais choisi est rest\u00e9 (je les remercie), et la cotation tr\u00e8s optimiste de 8b? fut propos\u00e9e.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/video-baptiste-dherbilly-salamandre\/\">Baptiste Dherbilly<\/a>, un coll\u00e8gue entraineur au club d&rsquo;Annecy <a href=\"https:\/\/www.rocevasion.com\/page\/509226-presentation-du-club\" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Roc Evasion<\/a>, hyper fort et monstrueusement passionn\u00e9, a sorti ce projet de l&rsquo;oubli en 2018, passant du temps \u00e0 brosser ce calcaire gris poussi\u00e9reux, et \u00e0 trouver les m\u00e9thodes. Les \u00ab\u00a0Rats Sous-Marins\u00a0\u00bb (voir sur <a href=\"https:\/\/www.escalade-74.com\/rats-sous-marins-9a\/\" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">escalade-74.com<\/a>) ont alors sorti leurs museaux des cartons!<\/p>\n<p>Le genevois <a href=\"https:\/\/www.lacrux.com\/fr\/mont%C3%A9e\/mathieu-holtz-scores-fred-nicole-classique-bain-de-sang\/\" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Mathieu Holzt<\/a> r\u00e9ussira le premier enchainement sur cette m\u00eame ann\u00e9e, proposant la cotation de 9a. Baptiste y parviendra l&rsquo;ann\u00e9e suivante.<br \/>\nPeu importe qui l&rsquo;a faite le premier, peu importe la cotation exacte &#8230;<\/strong> merci beaucoup Baptiste pour ces images. <strong>Je regrette un peu de ne pas avoir assist\u00e9 aux essais. Que les prochains pr\u00e9tendants me fassent signe svp!<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><iframe loading=\"lazy\" width=\"560\" height=\"315\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/W7LJTZoLkVY\" title=\"YouTube video player\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe><\/p>\n<h6><u>Quelques mots de Mathieu:<\/u><\/h6>\n<p>\u00ab\u00a0C&rsquo;est une voie courte d&rsquo;environ 20m en l\u00e9ger d\u00e9vers. <strong>La principale difficult\u00e9 est de ne pas pouvoir mettre de la magn\u00e9sie sur 32 mouvements de r\u00e9si. La voie est toute naturelle et il faut avoir un bon assureur pour \u00e9viter la chute au sol \u00e0 cause d&rsquo;un mousquetonnage impossible qui t&rsquo;oblige \u00e0 engager.<\/strong><br \/>\nJ&rsquo;ai eu besoin de 10 jours et 25 runs pour la r\u00e9ussir.\u00a0\u00bb<\/p>\n<h6><u>Quelques mots de Baptiste:<\/u><\/h6>\n<p>\u00ab\u00a0Au printemps 2018, je d\u00e9couvre cette voie sur la falaise de Bellosset. Une vraie ligne oubli\u00e9e, seul indice sur le topo : 8b?<br \/>\n<strong>Je commence le d\u00e9chiffrage et malgr\u00e9 un rocher de face nord plut\u00f4t glissant et peu attrayant du sol, cette ligne s\u2019av\u00e8re \u00eatre une v\u00e9ritable p\u00e9pite \u00e0 la gestuelle vari\u00e9e !<br \/>\nJe passe une dizaine de s\u00e9ances pour d\u00e9chiffrer les m\u00e9thodes mais aussi les clippages. Ces derniers sont d\u00e9licats , difficile de l\u00e2cher une main dans toute la section en compression.<br \/>\nA l\u2019automne 2018, je parviens enfin \u00e0 trouver la solution pour des vrais essais.<br \/>\nJe pense alors pouvoir encha\u00eener cette voie, apr\u00e8s une trentaine de s\u00e9ances je me retrouve encore et toujours pendu dans le baudrier&#8230; Inlassablement rattrap\u00e9 par la gravit\u00e9 dans les derniers mouvements&#8230; La voie devient alors une vraie b\u00eate noire, je ne trouve pas de solution.<br \/>\nFinalement apr\u00e8s 1 ann\u00e9e de pause dans la voie  je reviens avec un \u0153il nouveau pour r\u00e9gler mes comptes. Je trouve un ultime r\u00e9glage dans mes m\u00e9thodes. Ce dernier s\u2019av\u00e8re salvateur . Apr\u00e8s une trentaine de s\u00e9ances et pas loin de 100 mont\u00e9es, j\u2019arrive enfin \u00e0 clipper le relais de cette voie \u00e0 l\u2019automne 2019. <\/strong><br \/>\nVraiment beaucoup d\u2019\u00e9motions indescriptibles que j\u2019ai voulu garder pour moi sans trop parler de cet encha\u00eenement. Je vous partage maintenant ces quelques images.<br \/>\nLa cotation de 9a a \u00e9t\u00e9 propos\u00e9 par Mathieu Holtz, auteur de la first ascent.<br \/>\nPersonnellement cette voie va bien au del\u00e0 de la cotation et je ne serai pas assez objectif pour annoncer quoi que ce soit. Avis aux r\u00e9p\u00e9titeurs !!!\u00a0\u00bb <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Une voie de Bellosset, o\u00f9 j&rsquo;avais plant\u00e9 des premiers spits dans les ann\u00e9es 1990, qui tombe enfin. Pour un possible 9a bien d\u00e9ment!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":20734,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"colormag_page_container_layout":"default_layout","colormag_page_sidebar_layout":"default_layout","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[4,7],"tags":[214,218,215,17,217,29],"class_list":["post-20732","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-escalade","category-videos","tag-9a","tag-baptise-dherbilly","tag-bellosset","tag-escalade","tag-haute-savoir","tag-video"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.5 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Vid\u00e9o &quot;Les Rats Sous-marins&quot; (9a?) par Baptiste Dherbilly - Grimpisme<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Une voie de Bellosset, o\u00f9 j&#039;avais plant\u00e9 des premiers spits dans les ann\u00e9es 1990, qui tombe enfin. 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