{"id":2001,"date":"2014-05-26T16:48:55","date_gmt":"2014-05-26T15:48:55","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/?p=2001"},"modified":"2020-06-17T13:33:38","modified_gmt":"2020-06-17T11:33:38","slug":"woody-wood-pecker-sapey","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/woody-wood-pecker-sapey\/","title":{"rendered":"Les cannelures de Woody Wood Pecker, Sapey"},"content":{"rendered":"

La derni\u00e8re fois que j’ai grimp\u00e9 au Sapey c’\u00e9tait dans le B\u00fbcheron<\/a> avec Yann et on s’\u00e9tait bien r\u00e9gal\u00e9. Cette fois nous avons grimp\u00e9 plus \u00e0 droite avec Mathilde, \u00e0 la pointe de Dran, un secteur d\u00e9di\u00e9 au dalles et cannelures.Nous avons choisi Woody Wood Pecker<\/a>, pour faire de la grimpe tranquillou en 6a+ max.
\nJe n’ai pas beaucoup grimp\u00e9 cette ann\u00e9e mais j’ai quand m\u00eame fait du 7b\/c \u00e0 C\u00e9\u00fcse, la falaise exigeante r\u00e9f\u00e9rence. Pourtant ma ch\u00e8re compagne a pu se permettre de me lancer un \u00ab\u00a0t’es BE non?\u00a0\u00bb lorsque j’h\u00e9sitais \u00e0 m’engager dans le run out entre les 2 premiers points de L1 (6a+). Elle devrait savoir que je suis BE de bloc encord\u00e9!<\/p>\n

Sinon la voie est magnifique, il faut grimper entre les points avec des passages en cannelures o\u00f9 il faut \u00e9carter les pieds et pousser fort dessus. Le style de grimpe o\u00f9 tu peux te mettre terreur ou marcher suivant la confiance emmagasin\u00e9e. L4 et L5 sont les plus belles \u00e0 mon go\u00fbt. L4 pour ses grandes cannelures, elles sont tellement creus\u00e9es que par moment tu grimpes comme sur des colos, et \u00e0 d’autres tu compresses comme en gr\u00e8s, d\u00e9ment. L5 offre une travers\u00e9e en friction imbourrinable puis 2 surplombs \u00e0 bonnes prises pour se venger.
\nAvec 2 brins de 60m nous sommes descendus en 3 rappels dans la voie, juste avant la pluie qui nous rafra\u00eechira durant la marche du retour, et savonnera les premi\u00e8res pentes herbeuses…<\/p>\n

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La derni\u00e8re fois que j’ai grimp\u00e9 au Sapey c’\u00e9tait dans le B\u00fbcheron avec Yann et on s’\u00e9tait bien r\u00e9gal\u00e9. Cette<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"colormag_page_container_layout":"default_layout","colormag_page_sidebar_layout":"default_layout","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[4],"tags":[148,17,105,149,147],"class_list":["post-2001","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-escalade","tag-aravis","tag-escalade","tag-grande-voie","tag-haute-savoie","tag-sappey"],"yoast_head":"\nLes cannelures de Woody Wood Pecker, Sapey – L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\/moniteur escalade<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/woody-wood-pecker-sapey\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Les cannelures de Woody Wood Pecker, Sapey – L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\/moniteur escalade\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"La derni\u00e8re fois que j’ai grimp\u00e9 au Sapey c’\u00e9tait dans le B\u00fbcheron avec Yann et on s’\u00e9tait bien r\u00e9gal\u00e9. 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Dimanche apr\u00e8s-midi nous sommes mont\u00e9s faire A Capella \u00e0 la Pointe de Dran (Sappey). On a commenc\u00e9 \u00e0 grimper vers 14h, il faisait bien chaud pour la marche d'approche mais c'\u00e9tait supportable pour la grimpe. N\u00e9anmoins partir 2h\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"P1040796","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/06\/P1040796-225x300.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":14956,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/copacabana-tours-areu\/","url_meta":{"origin":2001,"position":1},"title":"Aglagla \u00e0 \u00ab\u00a0Copacabana\u00a0\u00bb, Tours d’Areu","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"21 ao\u00fbt 2017","format":false,"excerpt":"Nous voil\u00e0 au pied de \u201cCopacabana\u201d, \u00e0 la quatri\u00e8me Tour o\u00f9 j\u2019ai d\u00e9j\u00e0 grimp\u00e9 \u201cM\u00e9lusine\u201d et \u201cMagic Magellan\u201d, accueillis par les grands rapaces. Les nuages sont partis mais l\u2019air est frais, le soleil a d\u00e9j\u00e0 bien tourn\u00e9, et certaines attentes au relais sont frisquettes, surtout quand le sac de hissage\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Environnement"","block_context":{"text":"Environnement","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/environnement\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"escalade tours areu copacabana","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/08\/P1100699.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/08\/P1100699.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/08\/P1100699.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/08\/P1100699.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/08\/P1100699.jpg?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/08\/P1100699.jpg?resize=1400%2C800&ssl=1 4x"},"classes":[]},{"id":15154,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/dalle-tuet-voie-lactee\/","url_meta":{"origin":2001,"position":2},"title":"Dalle du Tuet, la \u00ab\u00a0Voie lact\u00e9e\u00a0\u00bb","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"8 octobre 2017","format":false,"excerpt":"Nous continuons notre apprentissage de la grande voie avec les jeunes du \"Groupe Grandes voies\" du CAF 74. La dalle du Tuet est une falaise id\u00e9ale.","rel":"","context":"Dans "Escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"escalade dalle tuet","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/P1110015.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/P1110015.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/P1110015.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/P1110015.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":17881,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/candidature-groupe-jeune-escalade-ffcam\/","url_meta":{"origin":2001,"position":3},"title":"Candidature Groupe jeune escalade FFCAM 74","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"8 avril 2019","format":false,"excerpt":"Je continue l\u2019encadrement du Groupe jeunes escalade du CD74 de la FFCAM. Cette fois ci le cursus de grimpe en grandes voies se d\u00e9roule sur une ann\u00e9e (et non deux), avec 10 journ\u00e9es de grimpe en ext\u00e9rieur.","rel":"","context":"Dans "Escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"free tibet escalade gorges verdon","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/DSC05545.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/DSC05545.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/DSC05545.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/10\/DSC05545.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":19559,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/petit-bargy-voies-trous-petiole\/","url_meta":{"origin":2001,"position":4},"title":"Petit Bargy, voies des Trous pas la \u00ab\u00a0variante \u00e0 P\u00e9tiole\u00a0\u00bb","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"21 juillet 2020","format":false,"excerpt":"Plus on monte et plus c'est beau, avec des cannelures au gruy\u00e8re, des trous. On d\u00e9passe rapidement les \u00e9quipeurs \u00e0 notre gauche. Ils ont l'air de bien s'amuser \u00e0 balancer des grosses mottes de mousse et de terreau dans le vide.","rel":"","context":"Dans "Alpinisme"","block_context":{"text":"Alpinisme","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/alpinisme\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"escalade petit bargy voie trous","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/P1020399.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/P1020399.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/P1020399.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/P1020399.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":25498,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/entrainement-grande-voie-escalade\/","url_meta":{"origin":2001,"position":5},"title":"S\u2019entra\u00eener en grande voie, pour la falaise et le bloc","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"29 juillet 2024","format":false,"excerpt":"La grimpe en grande voie, m\u00eame \u00e0 un niveau tr\u00e8s inf\u00e9rieur \u00e0 votre niveau max, est un excellent entra\u00eenement pour la falaise, et le bloc.","rel":"","context":"Dans "Conseils entrainement escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Conseils entrainement escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/entrainement-escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"escalade aiguillet lauzet grande voie","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/IMG_3554.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/IMG_3554.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/IMG_3554.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/IMG_3554.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2001","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2001"}],"version-history":[{"count":17,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2001\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":19246,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2001\/revisions\/19246"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2001"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2001"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2001"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}