{"id":19799,"date":"2020-09-17T18:28:46","date_gmt":"2020-09-17T16:28:46","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/?p=19799"},"modified":"2026-03-05T15:42:55","modified_gmt":"2026-03-05T14:42:55","slug":"zone-confort","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/zone-confort\/","title":{"rendered":"Escalade, faut-il vraiment sortir de sa zone de confort?"},"content":{"rendered":"

Les expressions caricaturales \u00e0 la mode ne s\u2019appliquent pas toujours bien au monde de l\u2019escalade. Si on prend par exemple la trop fameuse \u00ab\u00a0trop de force tue la force\u00a0\u00bb et ses multiples variantes, il y a un fond de v\u00e9rit\u00e9 qui peut aider. Par contre, je ne supporte pas l\u2019utilisation \u00e0 toutes les sauces de cette id\u00e9e qu\u2019il faut \u00ab sortir de sa zone de confort \u00bb<\/a> pour progresser en escalade.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"escalade<\/a>Imagines, tu fais du 6b r\u00e9guli\u00e8rement, tu as une grimpe plut\u00f4t physique, tu n\u2019aimes pas voler, tu te crispes d\u00e8s que la cotation est un petit peu plus \u00e9lev\u00e9e et n\u2019ose pas lancer ces derniers mouvements qui te feraient enfin encha\u00eener ce magnifique 6c. Ce petit pas en dalle sous le relais n\u2019est pourtant pas dur. N\u00e9anmoins tu ne parviens pas \u00e0 rester concentr\u00e9 en arrivant fatigu\u00e9 l\u00e0-haut, et \u00e0 chaque fois tu perds le fil, d\u00e9sescaladant 3 mouvements pour te faire bloquer, avant m\u00eame de l\u2019avoir engag\u00e9. Tu d\u00e9testes ce pas car il te fait peur. C’est presque pire \u00e0 chaque essai.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Ton pote plus exp\u00e9riment\u00e9 et plus fort que toi sais que tu as cette voie dans les bras. Il veut bien faire : \u00ab Tu dois sortir de ta zone de confort pour le croiter ce projet. C\u2019est tout dans la t\u00eate ! M\u00eame si tu me le demandes, je ne te bloquerai pas avant le pas, je balancerai m\u00eame 3 m\u00e8tres de mou. \u00bb<\/strong><\/p>\n

Comment allez-vous vous comporter dans ce cas ? Si vous \u00eates suffisamment exp\u00e9riment\u00e9, que vous avez assez de recul sur vos failles dans la gestion de vos \u00e9motions, et d\u2019outils pour y faire face, cette m\u00e9thode commando peut fonctionner. Parfois un bon coup de pied aux fesses peut faire du bien, mais seulement si on est arm\u00e9 pour r\u00e9agir ad\u00e9quatement.
\nDans la majorit\u00e9 des cas, cette m\u00e9thode ne fonctionnera pas car elle joue sur des leviers n\u00e9gatifs : \u00ab Si je sors de ma zone de confort, cela veut donc dire que je vais entrer dans la zone de la peur, voir de la panique ? \u00bb.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Pourtant, c\u2019est bien l\u2019inverse que l\u2019on recherche. Rester concentr\u00e9, garder la confiance et ne pas se laisser (totalement) envahir par des pens\u00e9es n\u00e9gatives. Il faut donc ETENDRE SA ZONE DE CONFORT ET NE PAS CHERCHER A EN SORTIR, en \u00e9voluant dans SA zone d’apprentissage. C’est un travail \u00e0 r\u00e9aliser avec m\u00e9thode et patience, comme les athl\u00e8tes interview\u00e9s dans le livre \u00ab\u00a0Vaincre ses peurs\u00a0\u00bb<\/a> l’expliquent. Pour cela, une aide ext\u00e9rieure est souvent indispensable.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Prenons quelques cas concrets, des situations classiques de blocage que rencontrent beaucoup de grimpeurs.<\/p>\n

Ce pas en dalle qui te bloque sous le relais<\/u><\/h6>\n

Il s’agit de la situation typique \u00e9voqu\u00e9e plus haut. Une solution peut \u00eatre de faire, de refaire encore ce pas, d’abord en moulinette puis en t\u00eate en repartant du spit en dessous. Dans votre t\u00eate, dites vous que vous \u00eates dans l\u2019encha\u00eenement, que vous partez du bas.
\nDepuis le sol, avant de mettre un essai, on visualise la r\u00e9ussite. On la visualise \u00e0 nouveau en arrivant au pas.<\/p>\n

Le r\u00e9tablissement d’un bloc qui fait peur<\/u><\/h6>\n

Plut\u00f4t que de faire face \u00e0 un blocage mental et de sauter encore de ce r\u00e9ta, il faut mieux l\u00e0 aussi se faciliter la t\u00e2che pour ensuite \u00eatre au niveau. Cela peut se faire par exemple en utilisant la corde pour l’apprendre et le ma\u00eetriser (bloc en ext\u00e9rieur).
\nUtiliser au d\u00e9but une prise en plus, o\u00f9 reproduire le m\u00eame style de mouvement moins dur ou plus bas peut aussi tr\u00e8s bien fonctionner (bloc indoor).<\/p>\n

J’ai peur dans les voies en surplomb<\/u><\/h6>\n

La patience sera la cl\u00e9. Grimper des blocs et encore des blocs faciles en gros d\u00e9vers, puis des voies faciles. Ne pas chercher \u00e0 monter trop vite en cotation. Des conseils techniques aideront \u00e9videmment, m\u00eame il faut r\u00e9p\u00e9ter encore et encore.<\/p>\n

Autorisez-vous des \u00e9tapes pour atteindre vos objectifs. Tout est une question de m\u00e9thode, de dosage entre prudence et avanc\u00e9es. R\u00e9sistez \u00e0 la pression sociale qui veut vous jeter dans le grand bain alors que vous n’\u00eates pas pr\u00eat.<\/strong>
\nSoyez bienveillant avec les autres grimpeurs qui sont eux aussi face \u00e0 une voie, un bloc ou une habilit\u00e9 technique qui leur pose probl\u00e8me. Aidez les \u00e0 r\u00e9aliser des petits pas pour ensuite franchir le grand… quand le moment est venu.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u00ab\u00a0Il faut que tu sortes de ta zone de confort!\u00a0\u00bb Mais est-ce vraiment une bonne id\u00e9e? Voil\u00e0 une phrase toute faite contre-productive.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":19477,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"colormag_page_container_layout":"default_layout","colormag_page_sidebar_layout":"default_layout","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[6,9,4],"tags":[31,17,128,64,184],"class_list":["post-19799","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-entrainement-escalade","category-coup-de-gueule","category-escalade","tag-entrainement","tag-escalade","tag-peur-vol","tag-preparation-mentale","tag-zone-de-confort"],"yoast_head":"\nEscalade, faut-il vraiment sortir de sa zone de confort? – L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\/moniteur escalade<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\""Il faut que tu sortes de ta zone de confort!" 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Avec des erreurs \u00e0 \u00e9viter.","rel":"","context":"Dans "Conseils entrainement escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Conseils entrainement escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/entrainement-escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"entrainement escalade","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/entrainement-escalade.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/entrainement-escalade.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/entrainement-escalade.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/entrainement-escalade.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":17700,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/force-resi-conti-entrainement\/","url_meta":{"origin":19799,"position":1},"title":"Force, r\u00e9si et conti dans la m\u00eame s\u00e9ance?","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"4 f\u00e9vrier 2019","format":false,"excerpt":"Ces 3 vid\u00e9os pr\u00e9sentent 3 entrainement diff\u00e9rents: l\u2019un de force sur pan Gullich, l\u2019un de r\u00e9sistance sur pan, puis de continuit\u00e9 pour le dernier. 3 vid\u00e9os ok, mais 3 vid\u00e9os pour une seule et m\u00eame s\u00e9ance! Faut-il s\u2019entra\u00eener en force, r\u00e9si et conti sur la m\u00eame s\u00e9ance?","rel":"","context":"Dans "Conseils entrainement escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Conseils entrainement escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/entrainement-escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"relais vertical entrainement escalade","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/relais-vertical-entrainement-escalade.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/relais-vertical-entrainement-escalade.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/relais-vertical-entrainement-escalade.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/relais-vertical-entrainement-escalade.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":27745,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/avis-livre-escalade-training-secrets-planfication\/","url_meta":{"origin":19799,"position":2},"title":"Avis sur le livre \u00ab ESCALADE TRAINING: les secrets de la planification \u00bb","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"3 juillet 2025","format":false,"excerpt":"Mon avis sur ce livre consacr\u00e9 \u00e0 la planification de l'entrainement en escalade, par Kevin Arc et Herv\u00e9 Di Dom\u00e9nico. 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Cela doit se faire de mani\u00e8re douce, progressive et intelligente.","rel":"","context":"Dans "Conseils entrainement escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Conseils entrainement escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/entrainement-escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"entrainement escalade climbing training","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/IMG_1844.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/IMG_1844.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/IMG_1844.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/IMG_1844.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":24914,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/fatigue-entrainement-escalade\/","url_meta":{"origin":19799,"position":4},"title":"[RETOUR D\u2019EXPERIENCE] Entrainement escalade: fatigue(s) mentale, ou physique?","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"23 mai 2024","format":false,"excerpt":"Lorsque qu'on suit un entrainement en escalade, il n'est pas toujours facile de d\u00e9terminer quelle(s) fatigue(s) on ressent, et quelles en sont les causes. Fatigu\u00e9 mentalement, physiquement? En force, en endurance? Ou finalement d\u00e9sentrain\u00e9? 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