{"id":19085,"date":"2020-05-04T11:41:32","date_gmt":"2020-05-04T09:41:32","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/?p=19085"},"modified":"2020-08-11T15:34:42","modified_gmt":"2020-08-11T13:34:42","slug":"ameliorer-recuperation-entrainement","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/ameliorer-recuperation-entrainement\/","title":{"rendered":"Des pistes pour am\u00e9liorer sa r\u00e9cup\u00e9ration"},"content":{"rendered":"

Voici le compte-rendu du livre , \u00ab Am\u00e9liorer sa r\u00e9cup\u00e9ration en sport \u00bb<\/a>, \u00e9dit\u00e9 par l\u2019INSEP en 2013. Cet ouvrage synth\u00e9tise les travaux d\u2019\u00e9tude sur diff\u00e9rents protocoles de r\u00e9cup\u00e9ration de l\u2019effort sportif. Cela passe par le sommeil, l\u2019hydratation, les \u00e9tirements<\/a>, et \u00e9galement par des protocoles plus sp\u00e9cifiques comme les v\u00eatements de compression ou les applications locales de chaud\/froid.<\/strong>
\nJe maudis particuli\u00e8rement ce confinement sanito-autoritaire, sans pour autant gaspiller le temps libre qu\u2019il m\u2019a d\u00e9gag\u00e9 (quelle fiert\u00e9 de sauver des vies !). Alors voici quelques-unes des nombreuses informations que j\u2019en ai retir\u00e9. Toujours rester positif<\/a>\u2026 <\/p>\n

\"livre<\/a><\/p>\n

\n
R\u00e9cup\u00e9ration et affutage avant une comp\u00e9tition<\/u><\/h6>\n

Avant le pic de forme, une p\u00e9riode de 2 semaines avec une forte baisse du volume mais une intensit\u00e9 maintenue est n\u00e9cessaire. Le volume peut augmenter \u00e0 nouveau sur les 2 ou 3 derniers jours, pour atteindre un pic encore plus marqu\u00e9. En d\u2019autres termes, durant les 2 semaines avant le weekend \u00e0 Buoux ou \u00e0 Fontainebleau, on grimpe beaucoup moins, mais toujours dans des choses dures.<\/strong><\/p>\n

La r\u00e9cup\u00e9ration active<\/u><\/h6>\n

Voil\u00e0 une nouvelle fois une remise en cause de la notion brute de r\u00e9cup\u00e9ration active.<\/strong> Selon les auteurs, un entrainement a\u00e9robie \u00e0 basse intensit\u00e9 n\u2019acc\u00e9l\u00e8re pas la r\u00e9cup\u00e9ration au-del\u00e0 d\u2019un p\u00e9riode de 20 ou 30 minutes. Le repos passif et les boissons dites de r\u00e9cup\u00e9ration sont tout aussi efficaces.
\nIl faut donc prendre une r\u00e9cup\u00e9ration active comme un entrainement \u00e0 faible intensit\u00e9, et rien d\u2019autre. <\/strong>Par contre, ce protocole aurait une efficacit\u00e9 plus marqu\u00e9e sur une p\u00e9riode courte. Allez marcher doucement 15 minutes avant de remettre un essai peut donc \u00eatre efficace. M\u00eame chose pour un petit \u00ab tour de home trainer \u00bb avant le prochain tour de comp\u00e9tition. Pour \u00eatre plus clair, en faisant tourner doucement les jambes, on permet aux avants bras de d\u00e9gonfler plus rapidement avant de pouvoir regrimper sur la m\u00eame s\u00e9ance.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Les aspects psychologiques de la r\u00e9cup\u00e9ration<\/u><\/h6>\n

Mal r\u00e9cup\u00e9rer et s\u2019entrainer fatigu\u00e9 sont les pr\u00e9curseurs de la d\u00e9motivation et ensuite du burn out.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Les \u00e9tirements<\/u><\/h6>\n

\nLes \u00e9tirements avant un effort doivent \u00eatre doux et pas trop longs (maximum une minute par \u00e9tirement). Pour moi une minute c\u2019est d\u00e9j\u00e0 long !<\/strong>
\n
\nLes \u00e9tirements effectu\u00e9s en fin de s\u00e9ance ne permettent absolument pas d\u2019acc\u00e9l\u00e9rer la r\u00e9cup\u00e9ration. Ils peuvent \u00eatre r\u00e9alis\u00e9s mais de mani\u00e8re prudente, surtout apr\u00e8s une s\u00e9ance intense, et absolument \u00e9vit\u00e9s apr\u00e8s une s\u00e9ance d\u2019excentrique <\/strong>(d\u2019ailleurs il vaut mieux \u00e9viter les s\u00e9ances d\u2019excentrique<\/a> sans un suivi de mon point de vue). Leur efficacit\u00e9 n\u2019est que subjective (ce qui est d\u00e9j\u00e0 pas si mal ?) et ne se retrouve pas sur les mesures physiologiques.
\nLes \u00e9tirements provoquent des microtraumatismes sur les fibres musculaires. Si ils permettent effectivement d\u2019am\u00e9liorer la mobilit\u00e9 et la force, il faut les consid\u00e9rer comme des exercices d\u2019entrainement \u00e0 part enti\u00e8re. Et donc quand on fait une s\u00e9ance d\u2019\u00e9tirements, on s\u2019entraine et on ne fait rien d\u2019autre apr\u00e8s ni avant.<\/strong>\n<\/p>\n

L\u2019hydratation<\/u><\/h6>\n

\nLe corps ne sait pas faire de r\u00e9serves d\u2019eau. Boire 150\/300ml d\u2019eau avant l\u2019effort est suffisant. Le reste finira rapidement aux toilettes.
\nIl faut toujours absolument boire avant d\u2019avoir soif. Durant la s\u00e9ance, boire de l\u2019eau sal\u00e9e \u00e0 laquelle on ajoute du jus de citron permet de diminuer les pipis et de palier aux pertes en potassium. Si la s\u00e9ance est longue, on peut y ajouter du sucre (glucose) pour l\u2019apport \u00e9nerg\u00e9tique, mais surtout pour faciliter l\u2019absorption intestinale de l\u2019eau.<\/strong>
\nPour la r\u00e9cup\u00e9ration, apr\u00e8s l’effort, il faut ing\u00e9rer 150 \u00e0 200% des pertes, avec un grand volume d\u2019eau au d\u00e9but, puis en petites gorg\u00e9es r\u00e9guli\u00e8res. Les eaux min\u00e9rales gazeuses ont prouv\u00e9 leur efficacit\u00e9 ,mais la pollution engendr\u00e9e par les bouteilles plastiques du \u00ab monde d\u2019avant \u00bb rend cette consommation n\u00e9faste et obsol\u00e8te.<\/strong>\n<\/p>\n

La nutrition<\/u><\/h6>\n

\nNotre corps stocke les lipides, mais tr\u00e8s peu de glucides (le glycog\u00e8ne musculaire) et pas de prot\u00e9ines du tout.
\nApr\u00e8s une s\u00e9ance, il faut imp\u00e9rativement ing\u00e9rer le plus rapidement possible des prot\u00e9ines et des aliments \u00e0 indice glyc\u00e9mique \u00e9lev\u00e9 (des sucres rapides) pour que la r\u00e9cup\u00e9ration s\u2019enclenche imm\u00e9diatement. On oublie la bi\u00e8re apr\u00e8s la s\u00e9ance. Ou au pire on la compl\u00e8te avec un petit en-cas avant le repas.
\n\u00c9videmment, si la s\u00e9ance est longue (journ\u00e9e de grimpe), on mange durant la journ\u00e9e, toujours des prot\u00e9ines et des glucides.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Le sommeil<\/u><\/h6>\n

\nLe sommeil est l\u2019un des facteurs primordiaux de la r\u00e9cup\u00e9ration.<\/strong> C\u2019est toujours bon de le rappeler.
\nDe nombreux crit\u00e8res peuvent am\u00e9liorer la facilit\u00e9 \u00e0 s\u2019endormir et la qualit\u00e9 du sommeil :
\n–\t\u00e9viter les entrainements intenses apr\u00e8s 18h (pas simple suivant les horaires de travail)
\n–\tse coucher d\u00e8s les premiers signes d\u2019endormissement (b\u00e2illements, paupi\u00e8res lourdes)
\n–\tse tenir \u00e0 des horaires de coucher et lever r\u00e9guliers, pas plus 1h de d\u00e9calage sur les weekends
\n–\t\u00e9viter les repas gras le soir, l\u2019alcool, le caf\u00e9
\n–\tavoir une routine relaxante avant d\u2019aller au lit, \u00e9tat d\u2019esprit zen, pas de tv (\u00e9viter la lumi\u00e8re des \u00e9crans), prendre un bain ou une douche chauds
\n–\tam\u00e9nager une chambre sombre et fraiche.<\/strong>
\nEt bonne nouvelle, la sieste est valid\u00e9e comme un excellent outil de r\u00e9cup\u00e9ration (30 minutes max) !<\/strong><\/p>\n

Les massages<\/u><\/h6>\n

\nL\u2019effet des massages sur la r\u00e9cup\u00e9ration n\u2019a pas \u00e9t\u00e9 prouv\u00e9. Il s\u2019agit plus d\u2019un effet plac\u00e9bo li\u00e9 \u00e0 la baisse du stress et donc \u00e0 une meilleure perception de la r\u00e9cup\u00e9ration. Les \u00e9tirements semblent plus simples et efficaces.
\nIl faut \u00e9viter les massages vigoureux (micro l\u00e9sions musculaires) et de masser un muscle courbatur\u00e9.\n<\/p>\n

Les v\u00eatements de compression<\/u><\/h6>\n

\nL\u00e0 encore les v\u00eatements de compression n\u2019ont pas prouv\u00e9 leur efficacit\u00e9 sur la r\u00e9cup\u00e9ration.<\/p>\n

Electro stimulation<\/u><\/h6>\n

\nEffets tr\u00e8s contestables, similaires \u00e0 la r\u00e9cup\u00e9ration active, donc limit\u00e9s.\n<\/p>\n

Le chaud et le froid<\/u><\/h6>\n

\nA nouveau des effets tr\u00e8s contestables des applications de chaud ou de froid, que ce soit localement ou dans un sauna ou un hammam. Pour la gu\u00e9rison d\u2019une blessure c\u2019est autre chose.<\/p>\n

\n

Voil\u00e0, vous avez d\u00e9sormais des pistes int\u00e9ressantes et concr\u00e8tes pour mieux g\u00e9rer votre r\u00e9cup\u00e9ration entre vos sessions d\u2019entrainement, de grimpe ou de montagne. Ces donn\u00e9es sont \u00e9galement tr\u00e8s utiles pour g\u00e9rer l\u2019enchainement des jours de grimpe cons\u00e9cutifs sur un weekend ou un trip.<\/strong>
\nCes th\u00e8mes sont compl\u00e9t\u00e9s par des \u00e9tudes de cas, comme la r\u00e9cup\u00e9ration chez la femme sportive ou l\u2019athl\u00e8te \u00ab master \u00bb.
\nMieux r\u00e9cup\u00e9rer ce n\u2019est pas qu\u2019\u00e9vacuer la fatigue, mais c\u2019est aussi optimiser la surcompensation apr\u00e8s la s\u00e9ance ou le cycle d\u2019entrainement, \u00e9viter les blessures et maintenir un niveau de motivation \u00e9lev\u00e9 et appropri\u00e9.<\/strong>
\nSachant que ce livre a \u00e9t\u00e9 publi\u00e9 en 2013, il pourrait \u00eatre int\u00e9ressant de v\u00e9rifier si les donn\u00e9es sur v\u00eatements de compression, les massages, les applications thermiques et l\u2019\u00e9lectro stimulation ont \u00e9volu\u00e9 et\/ou gagn\u00e9 en pr\u00e9cision.
\nPour terminer, je ne pense pas que ces donn\u00e9es forment un pr\u00e9texte suffisant pour abandonner le traditionnel retour au calme en fin de s\u00e9ance, ni les quelques \u00e9tirements en douceur. \u00c9vacuer le stress et l\u2019excitation ne peut pas faire de mal. Par contre je suis d\u00e9sol\u00e9 mais la bi\u00e8re est mauvaise pour la r\u00e9cup\u00e9ration\u2026<\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Cet ouvrage synth\u00e9tise les travaux d\u2019\u00e9tude sur diff\u00e9rents protocoles de r\u00e9cup\u00e9ration de l\u2019effort sportif. Cela passe par le sommeil, l\u2019hydratation, les \u00e9tirements, et \u00e9galement par des protocoles plus sp\u00e9cifiques.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":19046,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"colormag_page_container_layout":"default_layout","colormag_page_sidebar_layout":"default_layout","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[6,4],"tags":[31,17,140,141],"class_list":["post-19085","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-entrainement-escalade","category-escalade","tag-entrainement","tag-escalade","tag-physiologie","tag-recuperation"],"yoast_head":"\nDes pistes pour am\u00e9liorer sa r\u00e9cup\u00e9ration - Grimpisme, coaching escalade<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Cet ouvrage synth\u00e9tise les travaux d\u2019\u00e9tude sur diff\u00e9rents protocoles de r\u00e9cup\u00e9ration de l\u2019effort sportif. 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R\u00e9si et conti sur poutre... ou sur tout support dont vous disposez.","rel":"","context":"Dans "Conseils entrainement escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Conseils entrainement escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/entrainement-escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"poutre entrainement escalade","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/poutre-entrainement-escalade.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/poutre-entrainement-escalade.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/poutre-entrainement-escalade.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/poutre-entrainement-escalade.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/poutre-entrainement-escalade.jpg?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/02\/poutre-entrainement-escalade.jpg?resize=1400%2C800&ssl=1 4x"},"classes":[]},{"id":24410,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/avis-livre-entrainer-scientifiquement-escalade\/","url_meta":{"origin":19085,"position":2},"title":"Avis sur le livre \u201cS’entra\u00eener scientifiquement pour l’escalade\u201d de Sergio Consuegra","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"26 octobre 2024","format":false,"excerpt":"Vous l\u2019avez compris d\u2019embl\u00e9e, je suis emball\u00e9 par le livre \u201cS'entra\u00eener scientifiquement pour l'escalade\u201d de Sergio Consuegra. 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J\u2019en ai profit\u00e9 pour interviewer son auteure, Caroline Milenkovic Messin.","rel":"","context":"Dans "Conseils entrainement escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Conseils entrainement escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/entrainement-escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"alimentation escalade entrainement","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/Capture-de%CC%81cran-2022-08-02-a%CC%80-11.28.08.png?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":910,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/entrainement-etirements\/","url_meta":{"origin":19085,"position":4},"title":"Entrainement, le point sur les \u00e9tirements","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"4 avril 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"On sait d\u00e9j\u00e0 depuis plusieurs ann\u00e9es qu\u2019il ne faut pas s\u2019\u00e9tirer apr\u00e8s une s\u00e9ance d\u2019entrainement, mais cette habitude reste malheureusement bien implant\u00e9e chez les sportifs t\u00eatus que nous sommes. Je vous propose une petite synth\u00e8se sur ce sujet \u00e0 partir de diff\u00e9rents articles lus sur le web. S\u2019\u00e9tirer durant l\u2019\u00e9chauffement\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Conseils entrainement escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Conseils entrainement escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/entrainement-escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"entrainement etirement escalade","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/591-199x300.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":19966,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/respiration-escalade\/","url_meta":{"origin":19085,"position":5},"title":"Comment respirer en grimpant?","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"26 octobre 2020","format":false,"excerpt":"Une bonne technique de respiration en grimpant est bien l'un des fondamentaux sur lequel on peut toujours apprendre. Et c'est un levier de performance tr\u00e8s puissant.","rel":"","context":"Dans "Conseils entrainement escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Conseils entrainement escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/entrainement-escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"escalade vitam","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/09\/bloc-vitam.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/09\/bloc-vitam.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/09\/bloc-vitam.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/09\/bloc-vitam.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/19085","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=19085"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/19085\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":19675,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/19085\/revisions\/19675"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/19046"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=19085"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=19085"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=19085"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}