{"id":18140,"date":"2019-10-03T18:29:00","date_gmt":"2019-10-03T16:29:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/?p=18140"},"modified":"2020-07-10T08:18:41","modified_gmt":"2020-07-10T06:18:41","slug":"quand-comment-finir-seance-entrainement","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/quand-comment-finir-seance-entrainement\/","title":{"rendered":"Quand et comment finir une s\u00e9ance d’entrainement en escalade?"},"content":{"rendered":"

On ne va pas reprendre ici le th\u00e8me de l’\u00e9chauffement avant une s\u00e9ance d’entrainement en escalade (?). M\u00eame si il existe plusieurs m\u00e9thodes et que la fin d’un \u00e9chauffement doit \u00eatre sp\u00e9cifique au contenu propre de la s\u00e9ance<\/strong>, il est facile de trouver des informations sur le web, o\u00f9 dans un livre d\u00e9di\u00e9 \u00e0 la progression.
\nPar contre, en observant les grimpeurs dans les salles de plastique, je pense qu’il est tr\u00e8s utile de parler de la fin d’une s\u00e9ance d’entrainement<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

\"entrainement<\/a><\/p>\n

Quand arr\u00eater une s\u00e9ance d’entrainement?<\/u><\/h6>\n

\nQuand on fait du bloc, il faut arr\u00eater d\u00e8s que la fatigue appara\u00eet.<\/strong> Si elle vient trop vite (moins de 45 minutes), c’est soit que vous ne vous reposez pas assez entre les essais, soit que vous \u00eates trop fatigu\u00e9 ce jour l\u00e0 pour travailler la force, soit que vous manquez \u00e9norm\u00e9ment de foncier et que votre corps n’est pas pr\u00eat.<\/p>\n

Quand on travaille la r\u00e9sistance c’est diff\u00e9rent… c’est quand on est fatigu\u00e9 que la s\u00e9ance commence! Il faut finir compl\u00e8tement \u00e9puis\u00e9 \u00e0 ne plus tenir une prise. <\/strong>
\nJ’ai mal aux avants-bras, je fais une voie facile et je rentre. C’est une s\u00e9ance de grimpe mais pas une s\u00e9ance d’entrainement. Ne comptez pas sur des progr\u00e8s importants.<\/p>\n

Quand \u00e7a va mal il faut savoir arr\u00eater et ne pas s’ent\u00eater. Je pense \u00e0 deux situations trop classiques malheureusement. La premi\u00e8re \u00e9tant quand une douleur appara\u00eet. Il faut s’arr\u00eater IMMEDIATEMENT.<\/strong> D’exp\u00e9rience et pour donner un exemple, si tu ranges les chaussons quand une poulie commence \u00e0 tirer, 10 jours plus tard c’est r\u00e9gl\u00e9. Si tu continues quelques blocs ou voies pour \u00eatre certain d’avoir mal, la convalescence s’allonge fortement.
\nDeuxi\u00e8me situation, quand la fatigue est trop forte et ne s’estompe pas m\u00eame apr\u00e8s un \u00e9chauffement long et progressif. L\u00e0 aussi il faut arr\u00eater et passer \u00e0 autre chose. C’est un gain de temps et il ne faut surtout pas culpabiliser. Le repos fait partie de l’entrainement.<\/strong>\n<\/p>\n

Comment arr\u00eater une s\u00e9ance d’entrainement?<\/u><\/h6>\n

\nUne s\u00e9ance d’entrainement devrait se terminer par un petit footing de 20 minutes. Ne r\u00eavons pas, personne ne le fait. Rentrer \u00e0 la maison \u00e0 pied ou en v\u00e9lo serait d\u00e9j\u00e0 beau.
\nSi vous finissez par un retour au calme avec des voies faciles, des blocs en dalle avec des \u00e9quilibres, c’est d\u00e9j\u00e0 tr\u00e8s bien. Avant \u00e7a quelques exercices de gainage ne feront pas de mal. Et un travail des muscles posturaux et antagonistes<\/a> est indispensable.
\nQuand aux \u00e9tirements, il vaut mieux attendre quelques heures, voir le lendemain (sans pour autant \u00e9tirer un muscle courbatur\u00e9).<\/strong>\n<\/p>\n

Les erreurs classiques \u00e0 \u00e9viter<\/u><\/h6>\n

\nFaire de le r\u00e9sistance apr\u00e8s une bonne s\u00e9ance de bloc est inutile mais pas dangereux.<\/strong> Tant qu’on ne tombe pas dans une bouillie d’entrainement<\/a>, \u00e7a va. Par contre je vous d\u00e9conseille tr\u00e8s fortement de faire du bloc \u00ab\u00a0quand on est trop daub\u00e9 pour faire encore des voies\u00a0\u00bb.<\/strong> Heureusement, je vois cette erreur rarement d\u00e9sormais.
\nLe pire du pire que je vois tr\u00e8s souvent est le classique \u00ab\u00a0je vais faire du pan Gullich pour me finir\u00a0\u00bb. Que ce soit apr\u00e8s des voies ou du bloc, le pan Gullich est un outil bien trop traumatisant (et efficace) pour \u00eatre utilis\u00e9 en fin de s\u00e9ance!!!<\/strong> \u00c9ventuellement sur grosses prises, mais il faut le recul et le niveau de pratique. Le mieux est de l’utiliser frais en d\u00e9but de s\u00e9ance. Une s\u00e9ance qui sera courte et pointue.<\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

En observant les grimpeurs dans les salles de plastique, je pense qu’il tr\u00e8s utile de parler de la fin d\u2019une s\u00e9ance d\u2019entrainement. Avec des erreurs \u00e0 \u00e9viter.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":18557,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"colormag_page_container_layout":"default_layout","colormag_page_sidebar_layout":"default_layout","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[6,4],"tags":[67,31,17],"class_list":["post-18140","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-entrainement-escalade","category-escalade","tag-coaching","tag-entrainement","tag-escalade"],"yoast_head":"\nQuand \/ comment finir une s\u00e9ance d\u2019entrainement escalade? 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