{"id":1716,"date":"2014-05-10T21:18:11","date_gmt":"2014-05-10T20:18:11","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/?p=1716"},"modified":"2022-11-06T09:27:42","modified_gmt":"2022-11-06T08:27:42","slug":"prises-taillees-roche-motte","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/prises-taillees-roche-motte\/","title":{"rendered":"Les prises taill\u00e9es de la Roche Motte (05)"},"content":{"rendered":"

Voici le premier article de la cat\u00e9gorie \u00ab\u00a0Coups de gueule\u00a0\u00bb. Cela n’est pas le dernier car d’autres sont sur le feu… Il s’agit de mon avis sur des th\u00e8mes et situations qui me g\u00eanent ou me choquent, et je le r\u00e9p\u00e8te, CE N’EST QUE MON AVIS. Je ne censurerai pas les r\u00e9actions n\u00e9gatives si elles ne sont pas injurieuses (m\u00eame si j’ai bien conscience que cela d\u00e9rape vite, comme sur les forums de C2C et Skitour). Ceux qui ne sont pas d’accord peuvent le dire poliment de mani\u00e8re constructive, ou passer leur chemin… je n’ai pas de carte de presse et ne pr\u00e9tend \u00e0 aucune objectivit\u00e9. Et puis je ne vais pas changer la face du monde.<\/p>\n

\"escalade<\/a><\/p>\n

Allez c’est parti!
\nCe samedi j’encadrais les jeunes du club sur le spot de la Roche Motte, \u00e0 Bouchier (05). Le lieu est magnifique, avec une belle for\u00eat de m\u00e9l\u00e8zes et une vue imprenable sur la vall\u00e9e de la Durance. Le spot propose une trentaine de voies, majoritairement dans le 6, sur un rocher tr\u00e8s adh\u00e9rent, sculpt\u00e9. Les cotations sont amicales et l’\u00e9quipement d\u00e9mocratique. C’est id\u00e9al pour encha\u00eener plein de longueurs en d\u00e9but de saison et se remettre en confiance.<\/p>\n

Mais apr\u00e8s la pommade arrive le hic… \u00e0 partir de 6c plusieurs voies sont inutilement taill\u00e9es, parfois c’est une ou deux prises sur la voie, parfois sur plusieurs prises de suite. Par inutilement je veux dire que dans certains cas passer sans la prise taill\u00e9e ne change pas la cotation (Caprice des Vieux, 6c+), et dans d’autres la voie \u00e9tait r\u00e9alisable sans prises taill\u00e9es, mais pour une cotation beaucoup plus \u00e9lev\u00e9e (le 7a de Miss Meteore deviendrait peut \u00eatre un 8a?). Pour d’autres voies comme Ca penche (7a),le bidouillage \u00e0 la sortie permet d’\u00e9viter un probable 7b ou 7c.<\/p>\n

Je ne comprends pas la motivation des ouvreurs. Leurs niveaux techniques ne leur permettait pas d’envisager la voie comme possible sans bidouiller? Un rejet des pas de blocs? Une volont\u00e9 de proposer \u00e0 tout prix des voies homog\u00e8nes dans des cotations abordables au plus grand nombre? Pourtant c’est le caillou qui d\u00e9cide, non?<\/p>\n

Apr\u00e8s comme dit mon copain LaMouette, quand on fait des reproches \u00e0 quelqu’un qui a fait quelque chose, c’est que d\u00e9j\u00e0 il a fait quelque chose. Bravo aux ouvreurs pour leur travail de passionn\u00e9, pour avoir d\u00e9couvert ce beau caillou et merci pour toutes ces (presque) belles voies.<\/p>\nngg_shortcode_0_placeholder\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Je ne comprends pas la motivation des ouvreurs. 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Mais suite \u00e0 cette rencontre dans le Royans...","rel":"","context":"Dans "Coups de gueule"","block_context":{"text":"Coups de gueule","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/coup-de-gueule\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"chasse","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/chasse.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/chasse.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/chasse.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x"},"classes":[]},{"id":12930,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/jo-vitesse-combine-sondage\/","url_meta":{"origin":1716,"position":1},"title":"JO, vitesse et combin\u00e9, donnez votre avis!","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"3 octobre 2016","format":false,"excerpt":"J'ai \u00e9t\u00e9 fortement surpris par les nombreux commentaires sur ma publication Facebook remettant en cause la l\u00e9gitimit\u00e9 du podium masculin du combin\u00e9 aux Championnats du Monde d'escalade de Bercy 2016 (voir ci-dessous). Sean Mac Coll se tortille de bonheur en pendouillant dans le corde apr\u00e8s avoir chut\u00e9 dans la finale\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Coups de gueule"","block_context":{"text":"Coups de gueule","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/coup-de-gueule\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/10\/Capture-d%E2%80%99e%CC%81cran-2016-10-03-a%CC%80-16.24.21.png?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":6056,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/achat-articles\/","url_meta":{"origin":1716,"position":2},"title":"Achat d’articles de blog, nous sommes si cons que \u00e7a?","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"26 ao\u00fbt 2015","format":false,"excerpt":"Je re\u00e7ois de plus en plus r\u00e9guli\u00e8rement ce genre d'emails, dont un r\u00e9cemment d'une des plus grosses agences de trek fran\u00e7aises (ce n'est pas celui-ci). Sachant comment les r\u00e8gles du jeu sont fauss\u00e9es dans les relations m\u00e9dias-marques au niveau du march\u00e9 outdoor, je ne parviens m\u00eame pas \u00e0 imaginer comment\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Coups de gueule"","block_context":{"text":"Coups de gueule","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/coup-de-gueule\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"achat article","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/achat_article-300x120.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":3260,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/boostic-scarpa-test\/","url_meta":{"origin":1716,"position":3},"title":"Boostic Scarpa, en parlant de TEST justement","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"5 septembre 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"Voil\u00e0 j'ai enfin r\u00e9ussi \u00e0 fusiller ma paire de Boostic Scarpa, je suis soulag\u00e9 car je n'ai pas vraiment appr\u00e9ci\u00e9 ce chausson (voir test sur le pr\u00e9c\u00e9dent blog en juillet 2012). Je les trouve toujours aussi limit\u00e9s en pr\u00e9cisions sur petites prises genre gouttes d'eau et dans les trous. Par\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Coups de gueule"","block_context":{"text":"Coups de gueule","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/coup-de-gueule\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"test chausson escalade boostic scarpa","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/09\/P1050196-300x267.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":12583,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/imst-2016-sacre-rate\/","url_meta":{"origin":1716,"position":4},"title":"Imst 2016, un sacr\u00e9 rat\u00e9?","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"23 ao\u00fbt 2016","format":false,"excerpt":"Imst 2016 fut un sacr\u00e9 rat\u00e9... pas tant par la voie de finale hommes qui \u00e9tait trop complexe au niveau des volumes gris (\u00e7a arrive, c'est le jeu), mais surtout pour cette ridicule finale femmes se r\u00e9sumant \u00e0 un mix bizarre entre vitesse et difficult\u00e9 o\u00f9 les favorites ne pouvaient\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Coups de gueule"","block_context":{"text":"Coups de gueule","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/coup-de-gueule\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/imst-rate.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/imst-rate.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/imst-rate.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/imst-rate.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":18999,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/reprendre-travail-confinement\/","url_meta":{"origin":1716,"position":5},"title":"Pour reprendre le travail durant le confinement","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"17 avril 2020","format":false,"excerpt":"La pratique de l\u2019escalade en moulinette et en ext\u00e9rieur (le caillou de roche), sur voies d\u2019une longueur (on oublie le bloc et les grandes voies), avec port du casque pour le grimpeur ET l\u2019assureur me semble tout \u00e0 fait raisonnable.","rel":"","context":"Dans "Coups de gueule"","block_context":{"text":"Coups de gueule","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/coup-de-gueule\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"mesange bleue","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/04\/P1020185.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/04\/P1020185.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/04\/P1020185.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/04\/P1020185.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/04\/P1020185.jpg?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/04\/P1020185.jpg?resize=1400%2C800&ssl=1 4x"},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1716","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1716"}],"version-history":[{"count":17,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1716\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":22326,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1716\/revisions\/22326"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1716"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1716"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1716"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}