{"id":15866,"date":"2018-04-01T00:00:07","date_gmt":"2018-03-31T22:00:07","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/?p=15866"},"modified":"2022-03-18T11:42:52","modified_gmt":"2022-03-18T10:42:52","slug":"kalymnos-veritable-histoire-cotations","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/kalymnos-veritable-histoire-cotations\/","title":{"rendered":"Escalade \u00e0 Kalymnos: la v\u00e9ritable histoire des cotations"},"content":{"rendered":"

Me faufilant dans les rues bond\u00e9es de Chamonix un samedi apr\u00e8s midi de f\u00e9vrier, sur qui je tombe? Voil\u00e0 ce bon vieux Zephyr Tirsurlakroutos<\/strong>! Je n’ai pas vu Zephyr depuis 10 ans au moins, lors d’un (trop) rapide passage \u00e0 Kalymnos. Nous avions eu n\u00e9anmoins le temps de sympathiser et de passer quelques bonnes soir\u00e9es, car en soir\u00e9e Zephyr est tr\u00e8s tr\u00e8s sympathique!. Nous nous \u00e9tions ensuite rapidement crois\u00e9s \u00e0 Rodellar.
\n Discret (sauf en soir\u00e9e donc), Zephyr est l’un des pionniers du d\u00e9veloppement de l’escalade sur l’\u00eele pr\u00e9-cit\u00e9e. On l’a \u00e9galement vu tra\u00eener son perfo et sa Vespa du c\u00f4t\u00e9 de Lenidio, Geyikbayiri, et donc occasionnellement Rodellar.<\/strong>
\n En ce neigeux weekend chamoniard, Zephyr porte, comme d’habitude, un short. Ses 8 enfants sont en cours collectifs de pleurs en jardin d’enfants enneig\u00e9. Nous avons deux heures devant nous pour refaire le monde et nous consacrer \u00e0 la deuxi\u00e8me passion de Zephyr apr\u00e8s le plantage de spits: le vin chaud!<\/p>\n

Apr\u00e8s quelques d\u00e9gustations, j’h\u00e9site \u00e0 repasser rapidement \u00e0 la maison pour enfiler moi aussi un short, mais Zephyr l\u00e2che LA bombe (je vous \u00e9pargne l’accent grecque):\"escalade<\/a>
\n \u00ab\u00a0Tu sais Fred, je dois t’avouer quelque chose… concernant les cotations sur l’\u00eele… Quand on a \u00e9quip\u00e9 les premiers secteurs avec Yannis, nous avons donn\u00e9 des cotations d’escalade normale, comme on avait l’habitude de le faire depuis toujours. D’ailleurs tu m’as d\u00e9j\u00e0 vu grimper avec un pantalon??
\n Rapidement les premiers touristes sont arriv\u00e9s, des allemands, des anglais, et des fran\u00e7ais, surtout des fran\u00e7ais. Au niveau \u00e9thique c’\u00e9tait pas \u00e7a et les gars marchaient dans nos projets, les pulv\u00e9risant \u00e0 vue, mais en coin\u00e7ant les genoux tous les deux m\u00e8tres! On faisait pas le m\u00eame sport, ils avaient fauss\u00e9 les r\u00e8gles de notre jeu et on avaient carr\u00e9ment les nerfs.<\/strong>
\n On a alors int\u00e9gr\u00e9 un double syst\u00e8me de cotations dans la deuxi\u00e8me \u00e9dition du topo. Pourtant les grimpeurs ne retenaient jamais la vraie cotation alors qu’ils grimpaient comme des phasmes! Les scores de 8a.nu ont encore accentu\u00e9 la notori\u00e9t\u00e9 de l’\u00eele et en discutant avec le maire de Massouri, Adrastos, un cousin, nous avons d\u00fb choisir entre deux solutions: interdire les pantalons sur l’\u00eele ou privil\u00e9gier le business en gardant le syst\u00e8me de cotation original … sans pouvoir interdire les coincements de genoux!
\n Vu l’essor \u00e9conomique que nous apportaient ces vagues de chauves-souris habill\u00e9es en chambre \u00e0 air, le choix de la raison a \u00e9t\u00e9 vite fait…<\/strong> Maintenant je regrette ce choix, jamais je n’aurais imagin\u00e9 que nous avions ouvert la porte \u00e0 toutes les fen\u00eatres et que cette hypocrisie se r\u00e9pandrait dans tout le pays et m\u00eame ailleurs. Je me dis que nous aurions d\u00fb imposer notre vision des choses et que la beaut\u00e9 du rocher aurait fait le reste.\u00a0\u00bb<\/p>\n

Ahahah toujours aussi dr\u00f4le ce Zephyr, et toujours aussi na\u00eff \u00e9galement. La beaut\u00e9 du rocher qui passerait avant la cotation? J’en rigole encore. Et c’est m\u00eame Adam Ondra<\/a> qui le dit, coincer les genoux, \u00e7a rend la voie plus facile. Allez je passe le flambeau \u00e0 Pirmin<\/a><\/strong>, qui doit pas trop aimer le vin chaud lui.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Tu sais Fred, je dois t\u2019avouer quelque chose\u2026 concernant les cotations sur l\u2019\u00eele\u2026 Quand on a \u00e9quip\u00e9 les premiers secteurs avec Yannis, nous avons donn\u00e9 des cotations d\u2019escalade normale, comme on avait l\u2019habitude de le faire depuis toujours. D\u2019ailleurs tu m\u2019as d\u00e9j\u00e0 vu grimper avec un pantalon??<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":15883,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"colormag_page_container_layout":"default_layout","colormag_page_sidebar_layout":"default_layout","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[9,4,1],"tags":[261],"class_list":["post-15866","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-coup-de-gueule","category-escalade","category-news","tag-1er-avril"],"yoast_head":"\nEscalade \u00e0 Kalymnos: la v\u00e9ritable histoire des cotations – L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\/moniteur escalade<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/kalymnos-veritable-histoire-cotations\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Escalade \u00e0 Kalymnos: la v\u00e9ritable histoire des cotations – L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\/moniteur escalade\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Tu sais Fred, je dois t\u2019avouer quelque chose\u2026 concernant les cotations sur l\u2019\u00eele\u2026 Quand on a \u00e9quip\u00e9 les premiers secteurs avec Yannis, nous avons donn\u00e9 des cotations d\u2019escalade normale, comme on avait l\u2019habitude de le faire depuis toujours. 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Il fait beaucoup moins chaud, j'ai pas mal au dos, j'ai plus la cr\u00e8ve, je\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"escalade dat\u00e7a turquie","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/P1070260-225x300.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":2421,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/faces-a-la-mer-voyages-grimper-autour-mediterranee\/","url_meta":{"origin":15866,"position":3},"title":"Above the sea, new guidebook Faces \u00e0 la mer, voyager et grimper autour de la M\u00e9diterran\u00e9e","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"8 juillet 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"\"Abode the sea\" is a book to inspire and help you plan your up-coming family holidays or climbing trips. Why not head down to the Med next time! This book presents around 20 different climbing destinations in 7 countries \u2013 Spain, France, Italy, Malta, Croatia, Greece and Turkey. More than\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"topo faces \u00e0 la mer","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/couv_bd.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":11536,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/longueur-diametre-corde-escalade\/","url_meta":{"origin":15866,"position":4},"title":"Choix longueur et diam\u00e8tre d’une corde de falaise","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"6 mai 2010","format":false,"excerpt":"Dans les diff\u00e9rents mod\u00e8les de corde \u00e0 simple propos\u00e9s, il n'est pas toujours facile de s'y retrouver. 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