{"id":14578,"date":"2017-06-17T14:53:26","date_gmt":"2017-06-17T13:53:26","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/?p=14578"},"modified":"2022-01-03T09:46:44","modified_gmt":"2022-01-03T08:46:44","slug":"entrainement-variete","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/entrainement-variete\/","title":{"rendered":"Entrainement: la vari\u00e9t\u00e9 est primordiale"},"content":{"rendered":"

Dans quelques heures les vacances. Depuis avril d\u00e9j\u00e0 je m’entraine moins, privil\u00e9giant la qualit\u00e9 de grimpe en \u00e9vitant au maximum le plastique, et ce jusqu’au mois de novembre, avant de reprendre un nouveau d\u00e9part pour 2018. J’ai cette ann\u00e9e beaucoup plus rationalis\u00e9 mon entrainement en le programmant, en le r\u00e9alisant, puis en prenant du recul gr\u00e2ce aux notes prises. Je suis content car les r\u00e9sultats sont l\u00e0 avec finalement peu d’entrainement sur certaines p\u00e9riodes.<\/strong> Reste plus qu’\u00e0 cueillir les fruits maintenant!<\/p>\n

\"entrainement<\/a><\/p>\n

Je travaille souvent dans les salles d’escalade. En observant les grimpeurs acharn\u00e9s au regard de mes r\u00e9flexions sur l’entrainement, je sors trois profils types de pratiquants, certes caricaturaux, mais pas tant finalement:<\/strong>
\n – Le \u00ab\u00a0contiman\u00a0\u00bb<\/strong> qui fait au minimum 8 longueurs par s\u00e9ance, toujours sur la m\u00eame trame (souvent 2 longueurs tr\u00e8s faciles, 2 longueurs faciles, 2 moyennes, puis 2 \u00e0 niveau max), dans des voies qu’il connait. Il \u00e9vite souvent le profil ou le type de voie qui ne lui convient pas.
\n – Le \u00ab\u00a0r\u00e9siman\u00a0\u00bb<\/strong> qui se chauffe \u00ab\u00a0normalement\u00a0\u00bb, puis \u00e0 chaque s\u00e9ance met des essais \u00e0 r\u00e9p\u00e9tition dans sa voie projet de r\u00e9sistance.
\n – Le bloqueur<\/strong> qui \u00e0 chaque s\u00e9ance tire fort dans des blocs durs, voir sur le pan Gullich quand \u00e7a lui prend. Parfois m\u00eame il s’impose des exercice de gainage de 40 secondes minimum, tremblant sur ses coudes et serrant le ventre.<\/p>\n

Ces trois profils sont les m\u00eame finalement. Des grimpeurs passionn\u00e9s, tr\u00e8s motiv\u00e9s, qui pensent s’entrainer en augmentant la fr\u00e9quence des s\u00e9ances et \u00e9ventuellement leurs dur\u00e9es mais en faisant toujours globalement la m\u00eame chose. Il me semble que les progr\u00e8s obtenus, quand c’est le cas, sont faibles si on les rapportent au temps et \u00e0 l’\u00e9nergie consacr\u00e9s. Sans parler du risque de sur-fatigue ou de blessure (la classique tendinite du coude par exemple…), car \u00e9videmment les \u00e9tirements sont oubli\u00e9s.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Pourtant l’entrainement c’est tout le contraire, pourrait-on dire en for\u00e7ant un peu le trait. Pour le commun des mortels, j’oserais m\u00eame dire que entrainement et quantit\u00e9 sont incompatibles, du moins sur certaines p\u00e9riodes. Mais ce qu’il faut retenir avant tout, c’est que la cl\u00e9 est la vari\u00e9t\u00e9 du contenu des s\u00e9ances, la vari\u00e9t\u00e9 est primordiale!<\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Mais ce qu’il faut retenir avant tout, c’est que la cl\u00e9 est la vari\u00e9t\u00e9 du contenu des s\u00e9ances, la vari\u00e9t\u00e9 est primordiale!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":14579,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"colormag_page_container_layout":"default_layout","colormag_page_sidebar_layout":"default_layout","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[6,4],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-14578","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-entrainement-escalade","category-escalade"],"yoast_head":"\nEntrainement escalade : la vari\u00e9t\u00e9 est primordiale<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Mais ce qu'il faut retenir avant tout, c'est que la cl\u00e9 est la vari\u00e9t\u00e9 du contenu des s\u00e9ances, la vari\u00e9t\u00e9 est primordiale!\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/entrainement-variete\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Entrainement escalade : la vari\u00e9t\u00e9 est primordiale\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Mais ce qu'il faut retenir avant tout, c'est que la cl\u00e9 est la vari\u00e9t\u00e9 du contenu des s\u00e9ances, la vari\u00e9t\u00e9 est primordiale!\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/entrainement-variete\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - 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Mais on va \u00e0 C\u00e9\u00fcse, Fontainebleau, Buoux ou encore les Gorges du Verdon quand vous voulez.","sameAs":["http:\/\/www.grimpisme.com","https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/fredCaillouXvionnet","https:\/\/www.linkedin.com\/profile\/preview?vpa=pub&locale=fr_FR","https:\/\/fr.pinterest.com\/grimpisme\/","https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/user\/grimpisme","https:\/\/soundcloud.com\/fredvionnet"],"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/author\/fred\/"}]}},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/hamster-roue.jpg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p68Rw6-3N8","jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":21276,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/exercices-variete-salle\/","url_meta":{"origin":14578,"position":0},"title":"Entrainement escalade en salle: des exercices pour \u00e9viter l’ennui","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"3 janvier 2022","format":false,"excerpt":"Voici quelques exercices pour amener de la vari\u00e9t\u00e9. Cela vous permettra d\u2019\u00e9viter de passer de suite \u00e0 un entrainement purement bas\u00e9 sur le physique. Vous remarquerez que ces exercices bouleverseront vos habitudes en amenant de la complexit\u00e9 technique et en sollicitant vos capacit\u00e9s d\u2019adaptation. L\u2019id\u00e9e est belle et bien de\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Conseils entrainement escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Conseils entrainement escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/entrainement-escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"competition escalade","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/04\/89384155_10158419749504101_7350979983306653696_o.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/04\/89384155_10158419749504101_7350979983306653696_o.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/04\/89384155_10158419749504101_7350979983306653696_o.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/04\/89384155_10158419749504101_7350979983306653696_o.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":21312,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/avis-livre-entrainement-beastmaking-ned-feehally\/","url_meta":{"origin":14578,"position":1},"title":"Avis livre entrainement: BEASTMAKING de Ned Feehally","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"19 janvier 2022","format":false,"excerpt":"Voyons si ce livre semblant mettre en avant la force doigt et l\u2019entrainement sur poutre tient ses promesses marketing.","rel":"","context":"Dans "Conseils entrainement escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Conseils entrainement escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/entrainement-escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"beastmaking avis livre entrainement escalade","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/beastmaking.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":22847,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/avis-livre-escalade-training\/","url_meta":{"origin":14578,"position":2},"title":"Avis sur le livre \u00ab\u00a0ESCALADE TRAINING: 100 exercices sp\u00e9cifiques d’entra\u00eenement\u00a0\u00bb","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"25 mai 2023","format":false,"excerpt":"Mon avis sur cet excellent livre de Kevin Arc et Herv\u00e9 Di Domenico. Une bible des exercices d'entrainement en escalade.","rel":"","context":"Dans "Conseils entrainement escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Conseils entrainement escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/entrainement-escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"livre escalade training entrainement arc domenico","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/livre-escalade-training.jpeg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/livre-escalade-training.jpeg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/livre-escalade-training.jpeg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/livre-escalade-training.jpeg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":24914,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/fatigue-entrainement-escalade\/","url_meta":{"origin":14578,"position":3},"title":"[RETOUR D\u2019EXPERIENCE] Entrainement escalade: fatigue(s) mentale, ou physique?","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"23 mai 2024","format":false,"excerpt":"Lorsque qu'on suit un entrainement en escalade, il n'est pas toujours facile de d\u00e9terminer quelle(s) fatigue(s) on ressent, et quelles en sont les causes. Fatigu\u00e9 mentalement, physiquement? En force, en endurance? Ou finalement d\u00e9sentrain\u00e9? Complexe tout \u00e7a!","rel":"","context":"Dans "Conseils entrainement escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Conseils entrainement escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/entrainement-escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"escalade climbing buoux","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/fred-buoux-2.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/fred-buoux-2.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/fred-buoux-2.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/fred-buoux-2.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/fred-buoux-2.jpg?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":25498,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/entrainement-grande-voie-escalade\/","url_meta":{"origin":14578,"position":4},"title":"S\u2019entra\u00eener en grande voie, pour la falaise et le bloc","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"29 juillet 2024","format":false,"excerpt":"La grimpe en grande voie, m\u00eame \u00e0 un niveau tr\u00e8s inf\u00e9rieur \u00e0 votre niveau max, est un excellent entra\u00eenement pour la falaise, et le bloc.","rel":"","context":"Dans "Conseils entrainement escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Conseils entrainement escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/entrainement-escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"escalade aiguillet lauzet grande voie","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/IMG_3554.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/IMG_3554.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/IMG_3554.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/IMG_3554.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":23843,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/entrainer-salle-bloc-pour-rocher\/","url_meta":{"origin":14578,"position":5},"title":"Comment s\u2019entrainer en salle de bloc pour le rocher?","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"20 octobre 2023","format":false,"excerpt":"Des conseils pour utiliser au mieux votre salle de bloc habituelle afin de vous pr\u00e9parer \u00e0 la (vraie) grimpe sur le rocher.","rel":"","context":"Dans "A la une"","block_context":{"text":"A la une","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/highlitghs\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"pan entrainement escalade","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/pan-topo.jpeg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/pan-topo.jpeg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/pan-topo.jpeg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/pan-topo.jpeg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/pan-topo.jpeg?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/pan-topo.jpeg?resize=1400%2C800&ssl=1 4x"},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14578","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=14578"}],"version-history":[{"count":22,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14578\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":14766,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14578\/revisions\/14766"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/14579"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=14578"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=14578"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=14578"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}