{"id":13455,"date":"2017-01-12T16:25:21","date_gmt":"2017-01-12T15:25:21","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/?p=13455"},"modified":"2017-06-27T11:08:19","modified_gmt":"2017-06-27T10:08:19","slug":"test-materiel-chaussons-mutant-boreal","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/test-materiel-chaussons-mutant-boreal\/","title":{"rendered":"Test mat\u00e9riel: chaussons Mutant Boreal"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

La Mutant de la firme espagnole Boreal<\/strong> est sortie en 2016. Elle est pr\u00e9sent\u00e9e comme une ballerine de haut niveau (voir la fiche technique<\/a>). Je l’ai utilis\u00e9e durant plusieurs mois, sur mur, bloc int\u00e9rieur\/ext\u00e9rieur et falaise<\/strong> , en pointure 39,5 (je chausse en ville du 42, 42 chez FiveTen et 38,5 chez La Sportiva). Voici mes impressions.<\/p>\n

Les points forts<\/strong><\/u>:
\n– Usure et vieillissement<\/strong>. La gomme Zenith est efficace en adh\u00e9rence et en gratonnage, rien \u00e0 redire surtout qu’elle s’use tr\u00e8s lentement. La structure globale du chausson ainsi que les finitions (coutures, scratch de serrage) tiennent la route.
\n– Le maintien global du pied, et la pouss\u00e9e<\/strong>, qui, on en revient \u00e0 la long\u00e9vit\u00e9, durent dans le temps.
\n– Le talon<\/strong> est pr\u00eat du pied et ne bouge pas m\u00eame sur des crochetages d\u00e9licats.<\/p>\n

Les points faibles:<\/strong><\/u>
\n– Le gros manque de sensations dues \u00e0 l’\u00e9paisseur et \u00e0 la rigidit\u00e9 de la gomme.<\/strong> Les Mutant sont tr\u00e8s longs \u00e0 faire avec au d\u00e9but aucunes sensations. Ensuite les sensations restent tr\u00e8s moyennes et c’est pas simple de sentir o\u00f9 et comment on pause ses orteils (je parle de grimpe tr\u00e8s technique et exigeante, soyons clairs<\/strong>).
\n– Le pointe du chausson est un petit peu large et ronde.<\/strong> Elle tourne l\u00e9g\u00e8rement quand on grimpe sur les pieds (je ne suis pas un grimpeur l\u00e9ger il faut dire).<\/p>\n

La Mutant n’est pas une mauvaise ballerine. Malgr\u00e9 tout si on la compare aux produits du haut de gamme de la concurrence italienne ou am\u00e9ricaine, elle est clairement en retrait. La tendance actuelle est de privil\u00e9gier le rendu des sensations, en accord avec la grimpe moderne en \u00e9quilibres et adh\u00e9rences. Sur ce point l\u00e0 la Mutant est fortement en retrait. On peut s’interroger sur le concept de ce chausson, qui se veut une ballerine de haut niveau, et qui pourtant est correct partout mais excellent nulle part. Accordons lui un gros point fort, ce n’est pas un chaussons jetable et c’est tr\u00e8s tr\u00e8s louable!<\/u><\/strong>
\nComme vous pourrez le remarquer, je ne suis pas compl\u00e8tement en accord avec les tests que l’on peut trouver sur le web. Et celui publi\u00e9 par le supermarch\u00e9 espagnol du web, agr\u00e9ment\u00e9 d’une vid\u00e9o, est un sacr\u00e9 foutage de gueule!<\/strong> Ca c’est dit…<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

La Mutant de la firme espagnole Boreal est sortie en 2016. Elle est pr\u00e9sent\u00e9e comme une ballerine de haut niveau (voir la fiche technique). Je l\u2019ai utilis\u00e9e durant plusieurs mois, sur mur, bloc int\u00e9rieur\/ext\u00e9rieur et falaise. Voici mes impressions.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":13466,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"colormag_page_container_layout":"default_layout","colormag_page_sidebar_layout":"default_layout","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":true,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[9,4,3],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-13455","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-coup-de-gueule","category-escalade","category-tests-materiel"],"yoast_head":"\nTest mat\u00e9riel: chaussons Mutant Boreal – L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\/moniteur escalade<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/test-materiel-chaussons-mutant-boreal\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Test mat\u00e9riel: chaussons Mutant Boreal – L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\/moniteur escalade\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"La Mutant de la firme espagnole Boreal est sortie en 2016. 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Pas contre une grande voie non plus. Mais on va \u00e0 C\u00e9\u00fcse, Fontainebleau, Buoux ou encore les Gorges du Verdon quand vous voulez.","sameAs":["http:\/\/www.grimpisme.com","https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/fredCaillouXvionnet","https:\/\/www.linkedin.com\/profile\/preview?vpa=pub&locale=fr_FR","https:\/\/fr.pinterest.com\/grimpisme\/","https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/user\/grimpisme","https:\/\/soundcloud.com\/fredvionnet"],"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/author\/fred\/"}]}},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/boreal_mutant.jpg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p68Rw6-3v1","jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":11627,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/futura-lasportiva\/","url_meta":{"origin":13455,"position":0},"title":"Futura La Sportiva","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"22 mars 2012","format":false,"excerpt":"Voil\u00e0 la nouveaut\u00e9 2012 de La Sportiva est arriv\u00e9e, la ballerine FUTURA. Une ballerine haut de gamme avec la voute plantaire P3 (Solution, Miura VS) et le concept \u00abNo-Edge\u00bb de la Speedster. On va le tester sur le rocher durant les prochaines semaines et on vous tient au courant. N'ayant\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "News et actu"","block_context":{"text":"News et actu","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/news\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"chaussons escalade sportiva futura","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/03\/2-300x268.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":11638,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/test-chausson-futura-sportiva\/","url_meta":{"origin":13455,"position":1},"title":"Test chausson FUTURA La Sportiva","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"3 juin 2012","format":false,"excerpt":"La nouveaut\u00e9 2012 de chez La Sportiva, la Futura, est sortie depuis quelques mois. Je l\u2019ai utilis\u00e9e r\u00e9guli\u00e8rement depuis le mois de mars en falaise, bloc et pan et je vous propose mes impressions. En cherchant sur le web, je n\u2019ai trouv\u00e9 qu\u2019un seul test, rapide, chez les coll\u00e8gues de\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures"","block_context":{"text":"Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/tests-materiel\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Futura","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/06\/Futura-300x274.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":4009,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/test-corde-gully-beal\/","url_meta":{"origin":13455,"position":2},"title":"Test de la corde Gully Beal","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"27 novembre 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"Voil\u00e0 un peu plus d'un an que la corde Gully B\u00e9al est sortie et que nous l'utilisons. Le recul est maintenant suffisant pour publier un test apr\u00e8s une utilisation r\u00e9guli\u00e8re (voir la liste des courses effectu\u00e9es avec la Gully plus bas). Et oui chez Grimpisme on ne teste pas le\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures"","block_context":{"text":"Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/tests-materiel\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"test_corde_gully_beal (2)","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/test_corde_gully_beal-2-300x225.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":4664,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/merci-artline-prise\/","url_meta":{"origin":13455,"position":3},"title":"Merci ArtLine Holds!","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"26 mars 2015","format":false,"excerpt":"Durant les cinq ann\u00e9es o\u00f9 j\u2019ai tenu le shop en ligne, certains fournisseurs \u00e9taient professionnels et humains, d\u2019autres indiff\u00e9rents et professionnels, et certains, heureusement rares, me consid\u00e9raient avec m\u00e9pris car mon chiffre ne les int\u00e9ressait pas. Vu la petite taille de mon \u00ab business \u00bb, j\u2019ai eu tr\u00e8s peu de\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Coups de gueule"","block_context":{"text":"Coups de gueule","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/coup-de-gueule\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"prises escalade artline","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/P1060276-300x225.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":4747,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/test-chaussons-hiangle-fiveten\/","url_meta":{"origin":13455,"position":4},"title":"Test chaussons Hiangle FiveTen","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"30 mars 2015","format":false,"excerpt":"Les chaussons Hiangle Fiveten (voir la fiche produit sur le site du fabricant) sont arriv\u00e9s en France au d\u00e9but de l\u2019automne 2014. J\u2019ai pu grimper avec la m\u00eame paire durant 7 mois sur mur, pan et falaise. Ils commencent \u00e0 \u00eatre trou\u00e9s, il est temps de partager avec vous mon\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures"","block_context":{"text":"Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/tests-materiel\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"test chausson escalade hiangle fiveten","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/caro_sinno_fiveten_hiangle-300x200.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":11671,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/test-corde-joker-unicore-beal\/","url_meta":{"origin":13455,"position":5},"title":"Test corde Joker Unicore Beal","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"11 juin 2013","format":false,"excerpt":"Je grimpe avec la nouvelle corde Joker Beal depuis f\u00e9vrier dernier, lors de ma petite semaine autour de Siurana avec Ben Moon and co. Cette nouvelle version de la Joker b\u00e9n\u00e9ficie d\u00e9sormais de la technologie Unicore, que j\u2019avais d\u00e9j\u00e0 pu essayer et appr\u00e9cier sur la corde Diablo (voir le test).\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures"","block_context":{"text":"Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/tests-materiel\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"corde escalade joker beal unicore","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/blog-v1\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/06\/test_joker-300x168.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13455","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=13455"}],"version-history":[{"count":24,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13455\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":14140,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13455\/revisions\/14140"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/13466"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=13455"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=13455"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=13455"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}