{"id":12953,"date":"2016-10-11T16:17:40","date_gmt":"2016-10-11T15:17:40","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/?p=12953"},"modified":"2018-11-30T09:05:37","modified_gmt":"2018-11-30T08:05:37","slug":"topo-alpinisme-arete-sw-pic-sud-la-font-sancte","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/topo-alpinisme-arete-sw-pic-sud-la-font-sancte\/","title":{"rendered":"Topo alpinisme: ar\u00eate SW du Pic Sud de la Font Sancte"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"font<\/a><\/p>\n

Vars (05) est une station de ski franchement tourn\u00e9e vers le freestyle et le \u00ab\u00a0tout canon\u00a0\u00bb, mais pas que. Le Val d’Escreins, sur la m\u00eame commune pourtant, est heureusement pr\u00e9serv\u00e9 de tout \u00e7a, un peu trop m\u00eame car la route d’acc\u00e8s ouvre tr\u00e8s tard au printemps et il faut alors porter longtemps les skis avant de chausser … jamais content!
\nLe \u00ab\u00a0massif\u00a0\u00bb de la Font Sancte dans son ensemble est un joyau de wilderness accessible par plusieurs versants, un paradis de la randonn\u00e9e \u00e0 ski, \u00e0 pied, de la grimpe (secteurs de la Saume) mais aussi de l’alpinisme facile (et oui le Pic Nord culmine \u00e0 3385m).<\/strong><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_0_placeholder\n

L’ar\u00eate SW du sommet sud est une belle ligne logique qui se parcours ais\u00e9ment sur une longue journ\u00e9e, pour peu que l’on appr\u00e9cie les heures de marche contemplatives. Enfin contempler point trop il ne faut, car parfois le rocher est carr\u00e9ment pourri et il vaut mieux surveiller o\u00f9 l’on pose le pied. D’ailleurs je tenais \u00e0 pr\u00e9ciser \u00e0 Alpisud<\/a> que nous n’avions pas trouv\u00e9 les 10% de rocher excellent, une autre fois peut \u00eatre!
\nCeci dit l’ambiance l\u00e0 haut est terriblement belle. Ne vous laissez pas d\u00e9courager par nos r\u00e9cits terrorisant, on en rajoute tous un peu pour se faire passer pour des alpinistes.<\/p>\n

\"topo<\/a><\/p>\n

D\u00e9nivel\u00e9:<\/u>
\n1600 m\u00e8tres positifs.
\nHoraire:<\/u>
\nCompter dans les 10h aller-retour.
\nDifficult\u00e9:<\/u>
\nLa course est cot\u00e9e F+ en bonnes conditions (compl\u00e8tement s\u00e8che ou alors en neige transform\u00e9e s\u00fbre \u00e0 cramponner). Les difficult\u00e9s sont concentr\u00e9es sur les derniers 200 m\u00e8tres en rocher souvent pourri, cette section devient d\u00e9licate avec de la neige fraiche.
\nMat\u00e9riel:<\/u>
\nCasque, baudrier, corde de 30 m\u00e8tres, sangles. Piolets, crampons souvent indispensables, voir m\u00eame quelques petits coinceurs si la sortie est fraichement enneig\u00e9e.
\nRefuge (optionnel):<\/u>
\nRefuge de Basse Rua (www.refuge-basserua.fr<\/a>).
\nItin\u00e9raire de mont\u00e9e:<\/u>
\nSuivre le chemin jusqu’\u00e0 l’Oratoire puis continuer \u00e0 monter sur une sente en direction de la Font Sancte. Au point 2685 contourner une zone de barres par le droite (cairns) et joindre le col 3078 (sente dans des \u00e9boulis ou n\u00e9v\u00e9s). On peut \u00e9galement passer par le point 2795 en contournant les barres par la gauche.
\nSuivre une sente escarp\u00e9e sur la gauche (W) de l’ar\u00eate la plupart du temps, jusqu’\u00e0 une br\u00e8che \u00e0 droite du gendarme 3174. Et l\u00e0 il est temps de s’\u00e9quiper.
\nDescendre 5 m\u00e8tres versant nord de la br\u00e8che, traverser quelques m\u00e8tres et remonter une chemin\u00e9e sur la droite. Remonter une vire raide sur 10 m\u00e8tres pour ensuite traverser \u00e0 gauche et rejoindre le haut du couloir jusqu’\u00e0 son sommet. Sortir \u00e0 gauche par une chemin\u00e9e pourrie pour rejoindre un petit plateau sous le sommet. Par des dalles faciles mais expo, et en rocher bien moyen, gagner le sommet.
\nItin\u00e9raire de descente:<\/u>
\nIdem, demandant de la prudence jusqu’\u00e0 la br\u00e8che.
\nVoir les conditions de notre sortie sur Camptocamp:<\/u>
\nwww.camptocamp.org\/outings\/811505\/fr\/pic-s-de-la-font-sancte-arete-sw<\/a><\/p>\n

\"arete<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Vars (05) est une station de ski franchement tourn\u00e9e vers le freestyle et le \u00ab\u00a0tout canon\u00a0\u00bb, mais pas que. Le<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":12992,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"colormag_page_container_layout":"default_layout","colormag_page_sidebar_layout":"default_layout","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":true,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[5,58,13],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-12953","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-alpinisme","category-mes-sorties","category-topos"],"yoast_head":"\nTopo alpinisme: ar\u00eate SW du Pic Sud de la Font Sancte – L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\/moniteur escalade<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/topo-alpinisme-arete-sw-pic-sud-la-font-sancte\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Topo alpinisme: ar\u00eate SW du Pic Sud de la Font Sancte – L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\/moniteur escalade\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Vars (05) est une station de ski franchement tourn\u00e9e vers le freestyle et le \u00ab\u00a0tout canon\u00a0\u00bb, mais pas que. 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Apr\u00e8s une p\u00e9riode de fort risque d'avalanche, nous ouvrons notre saison des couloirs de la Font de Sancte \u00e0 Ceillac. Peu de traces dans la zone pour le moment,\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Ski de rando et freeride"","block_context":{"text":"Ski de rando et freeride","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/ski-freeride\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]},{"id":11634,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/ski-vallon-cristillan-queyras\/","url_meta":{"origin":12953,"position":1},"title":"But contemplatif au Cristillan","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"21 avril 2012","format":false,"excerpt":"Hier des potes \u00e9taient au Glacier Noir avec une neige collante et bien lourde. Du coup je me suis dit \"banco\", \u00e7a serre cette nuit et demain c'est moquette party. Direction le vallon du Cristillan sur Ceillac avec G\u00e9g\u00e9. 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Le\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Ski de rando et freeride"","block_context":{"text":"Ski de rando et freeride","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/ski-freeride\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]},{"id":1810,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/test-casque-sirocco-petzl\/","url_meta":{"origin":12953,"position":3},"title":"Test du casque Sirocco Petzl","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"15 mai 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"Le casque Sirocco de Petzl est sorti en 2013 avec une forte campagne de communication bas\u00e9e sur son tr\u00e8s faible petit poids de 165 grammes. Ce faible poids a \u00e9t\u00e9 rendu possible par l\u2019utilisation exclusive de polypropyl\u00e8ne expans\u00e9 pour sa construction. Aucune coque plastique ne vient recouvrir le polypropyl\u00e8ne. J\u2019utilise\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures"","block_context":{"text":"Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/tests-materiel\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"sirocco casque petzl test","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/sirocco_6.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":11652,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/fontsancte-couloir-nord\/","url_meta":{"origin":12953,"position":4},"title":"Dans 40 de poudre on est tous champions du monde!","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"10 janvier 2013","format":false,"excerpt":"Premi\u00e8re incursion de l'hiver, mais s\u00fbrement pas la derni\u00e8re, dans les couloirs de la Font Sancte, au dessus de Ceillac. 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