{"id":12685,"date":"2016-09-02T16:21:22","date_gmt":"2016-09-02T15:21:22","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/?p=12685"},"modified":"2016-09-02T17:14:09","modified_gmt":"2016-09-02T16:14:09","slug":"voie-kohlmann-face-sud-aiguille-du-midi","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/voie-kohlmann-face-sud-aiguille-du-midi\/","title":{"rendered":"Voie Kohlmann, face sud Aiguille du Midi"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"voie<\/a><\/p>\n

La voie Kohlmann<\/strong> (voir Pierre Kohlmann<\/a>, lecteurs de Bonatti ce nom ne doit pas vous \u00eatre inconnu) en face sud de l’Aiguille du Midi est injustement m\u00e9connue \u00e0 mon avis. C’est pourtant une tr\u00e8s belle voie un peu \u00e0 l’\u00e9cart sur la droite de la face. On est d\u00e9cal\u00e9 de l’autoroute de la R\u00e9buffat, mais par contre les bennes d’Helbronner te fr\u00f4lent dans la longueur du di\u00e8dre en 6b (L7), c’est sp\u00e9cial comme ambiance! La ligne passe \u00e0 l’ombre \u00e0 la mi-journ\u00e9e<\/strong> et malgr\u00e9 la chaleur en vall\u00e9e, Matthias et moi avons eu chacun droit \u00e0 notre petite ongl\u00e9e. Et oui le fond des fissures redevient vite frais.<\/p>\n

\"voie<\/a><\/p>\n

Le passage de la rimaye demande de la prudence en ce moment, assurez vous bien! Pour ma part, connaissant d\u00e9sormais mieux les lieux, je descendrai en rappel pour ma prochaine grimpette \u00e0 l’Aiguille.<\/strong> Nous avons grimp\u00e9 la Kolhmann avec le pack chaussures-crampons-piolet dans le sac \u00e0 dos. Ca se fait bien mais grimper avec un mini sac sur ce granit orange, face au Mont Blanc, \u00e7a doit \u00eatre le pied.<\/p>\n

\"mont<\/a><\/p>\n

La Kohlmann suit sur sa quasi int\u00e9gralit\u00e9 des di\u00e8dres et fissures, sur un excellent granit. Avec un rack bien fourni de Camalots (jusqu’au 3) et de coinceurs, on peut facilement se prot\u00e9ger et consid\u00e9rer que \u00e7a passe en 5c obligatoire si on est capable d’artifer rapidement sur coinceurs. Tous les relais sont sur spits. Un ou deux spits par longueur clef permettent d’\u00eatre serein. Les longueurs sont \u00e0 l’ancienne, tr\u00e8s courtes (parfois moins de 20 m\u00e8tres), et on peut souvent les doubler sans tirage. <\/strong><\/p>\n

Entre le topo CamptoCamp (www.camptocamp.org\/routes\/333521\/fr\/aiguille-du-midi-voie-kohlmann<\/a>) et celui d’Herv\u00e9 Thivierge (herve.thivierge.pagesperso-orange.fr\/topo_kohlmann.jpg<\/a>), voici ma version de l’histoire. A vous d’\u00e9crire la votre maintenant!<\/p>\n

L1:<\/strong><\/u>
\n5b court, atteindre la plateforme sur le gros bloc par la droite.
\nL2:<\/strong><\/u>
\n5b, beau di\u00e8dre.
\nL3:<\/strong><\/u>
\nIdem.
\nL4:<\/strong><\/u>
\n5c, toujours le m\u00eame di\u00e8dre, qui se d\u00e9cale sur la gauche, passage plus raide sur grosses prises, beaux mouvements.
\nL5:<\/strong><\/u>
\nD’abord 6c teigneux en travers\u00e9e sur la gauche (petites r\u00e9glettes avec changements de mains, \u00e7a plante, pieds moisis), prot\u00e9g\u00e9 par 2 pitons et un spit, \u00e7a passe en tire-clou. Ensuite 5b raide, bonnes prises, belle ambiance.
\nL6:<\/strong><\/u>
\n5a, bien prot\u00e9ger un petit pas idiot au dessus \u00e0 droite du relais pour attraper des bacs. Un spit et un piton plus haut.
\nL7:<\/strong><\/u>
\n6b fissure\/di\u00e8dre, \u00e0 droite du pilier. Un spit est plac\u00e9 avant la section dure. Au menu coincements de mains et pieds pourris sur quelques m\u00e8tres puis \u00e7a se calme. Protections faciles \u00e0 poser.
\nL8:<\/strong><\/u>
\nTr\u00e8s beau 6a en fissure, coincements de doigts. Le d\u00e9but est le plus dur, au dessus du relais. Un spit au milieu de la longueur.
\nL9:<\/strong><\/u>
\n4, par la gauche, puis un pas de 5b en fissure pour atteindre la plateforme \u00e0 droite du dernier ressaut.
\nL10:<\/strong><\/u>
\nJe dirais 6b en libre sur un pas \u00e0 arqu\u00e9es, tr\u00e8s bien \u00e9quip\u00e9.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

La voie Kohlmann (voir Pierre Kohlmann, lecteurs de Bonatti ce nom ne doit pas vous \u00eatre inconnu) en face sud<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":12687,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"colormag_page_container_layout":"default_layout","colormag_page_sidebar_layout":"default_layout","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[5,4],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-12685","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-alpinisme","category-escalade"],"yoast_head":"\nVoie Kohlmann, face sud Aiguille du Midi – L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - 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Mais on va \u00e0 C\u00e9\u00fcse, Fontainebleau, Buoux ou encore les Gorges du Verdon quand vous voulez.","sameAs":["http:\/\/www.grimpisme.com","https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/fredCaillouXvionnet","https:\/\/www.linkedin.com\/profile\/preview?vpa=pub&locale=fr_FR","https:\/\/fr.pinterest.com\/grimpisme\/","https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/user\/grimpisme","https:\/\/soundcloud.com\/fredvionnet"],"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/author\/fred\/"}]}},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/P1090304.jpg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p68Rw6-3iB","jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":6080,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/voie-rebuffat-aiguille-midi\/","url_meta":{"origin":12685,"position":0},"title":"Merci Gaston! – Voie R\u00e9buffat \u00e0 l’Aiguille du Midi","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"31 ao\u00fbt 2015","format":false,"excerpt":"Quand on va pour la premi\u00e8re fois dans une voie historique, on encourt le risque d'\u00eatre d\u00e9\u00e7u, ce qui arrive parfois. L\u00e0 je dois dire que la beaut\u00e9 de la voie R\u00e9buffat-Baquet en face sud de l'Aiguille du Midi m'a sci\u00e9, cette voie est un monument de l'histoire de l'escalade\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Alpinisme"","block_context":{"text":"Alpinisme","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/alpinisme\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"voie rebuffat aiguille midi","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/P1150731-300x169.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":10651,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/nouvelle-voie-rognon-plan-universal-studio-mercier-chatelan\/","url_meta":{"origin":12685,"position":1},"title":"Nouvelle voie au Rognon du Plan: \u00ab\u00a0Universal Studio\u00a0\u00bb M8\/650m par Mercier et Chatelan","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"13 mai 2016","format":false,"excerpt":"Le 5 mai 2016 Jeff Mercier et Simon Chatelan (simonchatelan.blogspot.fr) ouvraient \"Universal Studio\" (M8\/650m) au Rognon du Plan (face NW, 3601m, massif du Mont Blanc). Jeff raconte: \"J'aime beaucoup ce secteur dont l'int\u00e9r\u00eat m'a frapp\u00e9 alors que je parcourais en \u00e9t\u00e9 l'ar\u00eate Peigne-P\u00e9lerins-Aiguille des Deux Aigles-Aiguille du Plan. On atteint\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Alpinisme"","block_context":{"text":"Alpinisme","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/alpinisme\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"\"Universal Studio\", trac\u00e9 jaune","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/universal_studio_1-225x300.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":8133,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/video-gmhm-voie-harlin-eiger\/","url_meta":{"origin":12685,"position":2},"title":"Vid\u00e9o: le GMHM dans la voie Harlin \u00e0 l’Eiger","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"22 mars 2016","format":false,"excerpt":"Voici une vid\u00e9o du Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne tentant la premi\u00e8re ascension en style alpin de la voie Harlin dans la face nord de l'Eiger. Oui, vous avez bien lu, en style alpin (c'est \u00e0 dire sans cordes fixes ni camps d'altitude permettant les allers-retours), cela donne bien une\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "News et actu"","block_context":{"text":"News et actu","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/news\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]},{"id":5495,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/aiguille-orny-cabane\/","url_meta":{"origin":12685,"position":3},"title":"Granit aux aiguilles d’Orny et de la Cabane","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"9 juin 2015","format":false,"excerpt":"Nous avons pass\u00e9 2 nuits \u00e0 la cabane d\u2019Orny pour fuir la canicule et profiter des orages de fin de journ\u00e9e. Le plan initial \u00e9tait de gravir la face nord du Portalet le premier matin, puis de tripoter du granit le lendemain. Malheureusement le Portalet \u00e9tait d\u00e9j\u00e0 trop sec (\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Alpinisme"","block_context":{"text":"Alpinisme","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/alpinisme\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Aiguille de la Cabane","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/aiguille_cabane-300x225.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":16299,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/grande-voie-fil-ou-face-saleve\/","url_meta":{"origin":12685,"position":4},"title":"Grande voie \u00ab\u00a0Fil ou Face\u00a0\u00bb, Sal\u00e8ve","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"18 juin 2018","format":false,"excerpt":"La varappe au Sal\u00e8ve, c\u2019est toute une ambiance. 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