{"id":12583,"date":"2016-08-23T10:23:54","date_gmt":"2016-08-23T09:23:54","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/?p=12583"},"modified":"2016-08-23T10:57:09","modified_gmt":"2016-08-23T09:57:09","slug":"imst-2016-sacre-rate","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/imst-2016-sacre-rate\/","title":{"rendered":"Imst 2016, un sacr\u00e9 rat\u00e9?"},"content":{"rendered":"

Imst 2016 fut un sacr\u00e9 rat\u00e9… pas tant par la voie de finale hommes qui \u00e9tait trop complexe au niveau des volumes gris (\u00e7a arrive, c’est le jeu), mais surtout pour cette ridicule finale femmes se r\u00e9sumant \u00e0 un mix bizarre entre vitesse et difficult\u00e9 o\u00f9 les favorites ne pouvaient g\u00e9rer leur effort, oblig\u00e9es d’avancer le plus possible avant la fin du temps limite de 8:00.<\/strong>
\nCela aura eu comme seul int\u00e9r\u00eat de faire tomber Janja Garnbret et de relancer le suspens sur le classement g\u00e9n\u00e9ral.<\/p>\n

\"imst<\/a><\/p>\n

Le mur d’Imst est-il adapt\u00e9 au r\u00e8glement des coupes du Monde avec un temps limite de 8 minutes? Certainement pas, ou alors il faut tracer les 8 premiers m\u00e8tres en 6b classique, et non pas avec des pas d’\u00e9quilibres sur gros volumes qui n’avancent pas. Le but du jeu \u00e9tait peut \u00eatre de forcer les grimpeuses \u00e0 avancer dans ce style de grimpe? Dans ce cas l’escalade de difficult\u00e9 en comp\u00e9tition \u00e9volue dans une direction qui ne me plait pas. Il faut que ce soit la nature des mouvements et leur difficult\u00e9 qui imposent le rythme de grimpe, pas un chrono…<\/strong><\/p>\n

D\u00e9sol\u00e9 pour cet avis tranch\u00e9, et que les ouvreurs ne m’en veuillent pas (j’ai ador\u00e9 les demis). Ouvrir en comp\u00e9tition est un art tr\u00e8s compliqu\u00e9 qui ne sera jamais infaillible, par contre il faut se pauser des questions sur le mur d’Imst qui n’est pas \u00ab\u00a0naturellement\u00a0\u00bb compatible avec les finales spectaculaires \u00ab\u00a0\u00e0 prise de risques\u00a0\u00bb que nous avons la chance de vivre de plus en plus r\u00e9guli\u00e8rement, comme \u00e0 Villars. A mon avis (personnel, partial), Villars, avec son mur plus court, est LA direction \u00e0 suivre (www.escalade.pro\/news\/finale-direct-coupe-monde-escalade-2016-villard\/<\/a>) pour \u00e9viter que l’on nous impose dans quelques ann\u00e9es la vitesse comme discipline \u00e0 corde dominante et spectaculaire, en comp\u00e9tition, de l’activit\u00e9<\/strong> (quel cauchemar, je pr\u00e9f\u00e8re encore penser aux pr\u00e9sidentielles 2017, nan je d\u00e9conne).<\/p>\n

Revoir finales Imst 2016:<\/u>
\nwww.escalade.pro\/news\/live-finales-imst-2016-coupe-monde-escalade\/<\/a><\/p>\n

Le r\u00e9sum\u00e9 FFME tr\u00e8s neutre:<\/u>
\nwww.ffme.fr\/escalade\/article\/imst-2016-gautier-supper-en-bronze-romain-desgranges-au-pied-du-podium.html<\/a><\/p>\n

Les r\u00e9sultats:<\/u>
\nwww.ifsc-climbing.org\/index.php\/world-competition#!comp=1646&cat=2&route=3<\/a><\/p>\n

Je pr\u00e9cise \u00e0 nouveau que c’est un AVIS personnel, que c’est autoris\u00e9 dans une \u00ab\u00a0d\u00e9mocratie\u00a0\u00bb, que l’on peut me contredire sans me dire que j’ai tort car je ne dis pas que j’ai raison, et que c’est m\u00eame ce qui est le plus int\u00e9ressant.<\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Imst 2016 fut un sacr\u00e9 rat\u00e9… pas tant par la voie de finale hommes qui \u00e9tait trop complexe au niveau<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":12585,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"colormag_page_container_layout":"default_layout","colormag_page_sidebar_layout":"default_layout","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[9,4],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-12583","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-coup-de-gueule","category-escalade"],"yoast_head":"\nImst 2016, un sacr\u00e9 rat\u00e9? 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Jakob Schubert, \u00e0 domicile, tombe au mouvement pr\u00e9c\u00e9dent, autant dire que c'\u00e9tait chaud et que Momo n'a pas vol\u00e9 sa victoire!\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"romain desgranges victoire imst","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/momo-300x183.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":14717,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/romain-desgranges-champion-europe-2017-escalade\/","url_meta":{"origin":12583,"position":1},"title":"Romain Desgranges Champion d’Europe 2017 de difficult\u00e9","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"4 juillet 2017","format":false,"excerpt":"Romain Desgranges a ce weekend entam\u00e9 en fanfare la saison internationale des comp\u00e9titions de difficult\u00e9 en remportant pour la deuxi\u00e8me fois cons\u00e9cutive le Championnat d'Europe, organis\u00e9 en Italie. Une victoire incontestable o\u00f9 il a domin\u00e9 les qualifications, la demi-finale, et remport\u00e9 la finale devant Adam Ondra et Jakob Schubert.","rel":"","context":"Dans "Coups de gueule"","block_context":{"text":"Coups de gueule","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/coup-de-gueule\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"romain desgranges champion europe escalade","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/Capture-d%E2%80%99e%CC%81cran-2017-07-04-a%CC%80-15.18.04.png?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/Capture-d%E2%80%99e%CC%81cran-2017-07-04-a%CC%80-15.18.04.png?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/Capture-d%E2%80%99e%CC%81cran-2017-07-04-a%CC%80-15.18.04.png?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x"},"classes":[]},{"id":12574,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/live-finales-imst-2016-coupe-monde-escalade\/","url_meta":{"origin":12583,"position":2},"title":"Live: finales Imst 2016, Coupe Monde Difficult\u00e9","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"20 ao\u00fbt 2016","format":false,"excerpt":"Voici la quatri\u00e8me \u00e9preuve de la Coupe du Monde de difficult\u00e9 2016, cette fois ci sur l'interminable mur d'Imst (Autriche). En esp\u00e9rant que le streaming fonctionne enfin correctement ce soir... Chez les filles toutes les favorites sont l\u00e0, mais seule Julia Chanourdie repr\u00e9sente la France. Chez les hommes pas de\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"imst femmes","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/imst-femmes-300x121.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":11094,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/coupe-du-monde-de-bloc-de-mumbai-resultat-et-resume\/","url_meta":{"origin":12583,"position":3},"title":"Coupe du Monde de bloc de Mumbai: r\u00e9sultats et r\u00e9sum\u00e9","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"18 mai 2016","format":false,"excerpt":"Vous \u00e9tiez peut \u00eatre en train de grimper dimanche apr\u00e8s-midi et vous n'avez pas pu regarder le direct de la finale de l'\u00e9preuve de Coupe du Monde de bloc \u00e0 Mumbai. Le streaming complet est toujours disponible en suivant ce lien, donc vous avez bien fait! Cette premi\u00e8re comp\u00e9tition internationale\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"result_femme_mumbai","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/result_femme_mumbai-300x129.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":22345,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/romaric-geffroy-champion-france\/","url_meta":{"origin":12583,"position":4},"title":"Romaric Geffroy: champion de France et falaisiste?","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"18 novembre 2022","format":false,"excerpt":"Pour moi, Romaric Geffroy \u00e9tait un pur falaisiste, un grimpeur de rocher. Sa victoire aux championnats de France 2022 de difficult\u00e9 m'a impressionn\u00e9. Comment Romaric a-t-il construit cette victoire ? 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