{"id":12376,"date":"2016-08-08T15:09:03","date_gmt":"2016-08-08T14:09:03","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/?p=12376"},"modified":"2016-08-09T13:28:52","modified_gmt":"2016-08-09T12:28:52","slug":"arete-papillons-voie-normale-peigne","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/arete-papillons-voie-normale-peigne\/","title":{"rendered":"Ar\u00eate des Papillons et voie normale du Peigne"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"arete<\/a><\/p>\n

Apr\u00e8s l’Aiguille de l’M le weekend dernier (voir cet article<\/a>), on reste dans les classiques chamoniardes avec la c\u00e9l\u00e9brissime ar\u00eate des Papillons \u00e0 l’Aiguille du Peigne. Cette fois-ci le rocher est beaucoup moins patin\u00e9, mais juste assez marqu\u00e9 pour aider \u00e0 trouver le bon passage.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Partis les premiers apr\u00e8s un bivouac sympa au Plan de l’Aiguille (\u00e0 peine frisquet, l\u00e9g\u00e8re gel\u00e9e blanche sur le duvet), nous avons pu profiter de cette belle escalade au calme, avant de jouer aux alpinistes sur la voie normale qui suit pour sortir au sommet du Peigne. Rien de bien dur sur cette voie normale, mais il faut trouver les bons passages et en garder sous le pied pour la sortie. Le sommet est impressionnant, si proche de Chamonix on se sent pourtant tout petit tout en haut de cet \u00e9norme gratte-ciel, ce n’est pas une montagne \u00ab\u00a0de coiffeur\u00a0\u00bb! <\/strong>
\nLa relative longueur de cette sortie fait que nous \u00e9tions presque seuls dans la montagne, \u00e0 peine irrit\u00e9s par la cord\u00e9e d’un guide de la Compagnie qui te marche dessus (non pardon juste sur le dos) \u00e0 la mont\u00e9e, puis t’attend avec un grand sourire \u00e0 la br\u00e8che pour r\u00e9cup\u00e9rer son mousqueton \u00e0 vis bas de gamme oubli\u00e9 au sommet (bizarre l\u00e0 il est moins press\u00e9), ou par des amateurs qui te doublent sans dire merci \u00e0 10 m\u00e8tres du premier rappel de la voie normale, histoire de chopper la benne de 16h10 qui est beaucoup mieux que celle de 16h30. Etre \u00e0 la minute dans une course de rocher o\u00f9 \u00e7a avance sans soucis je comprends vraiment pas mais bon… c’est l’esprit de cord\u00e9e et pas l’esprit de cord\u00e9es.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"DSCF4528\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Quelques petites remarques sur la grimpe:<\/u><\/strong>
\n– Entre la sortie de l’ar\u00eate des Papillons et la br\u00e8che 3043, progression en corde tendue et courte obligatoire, c’est du terrain tr\u00e8s facile. Sinon attention \u00e0 l’horaire!
\n– Pour atteindre l’ar\u00eate sommitale, on peut se d\u00e9caler plus \u00e0 droite que la derni\u00e8re chemin\u00e9e, pour grimper \u00e0 droite de l’ar\u00eate justement, soit du 4c\/5a raide, a\u00e9rien, sur bacs bien adh\u00e9rents, grosse ambiance.
\n– Nous sommes descendus en rappel versant P\u00e9lerins, avec une corde de 60m pour des rappels de 30m c’est juste juste, les relais sont moyens, et il faut regrimper un bout de la travers\u00e9e vers l’W pour trouver un relais sur spits, la prochaine fois je prendrai la descente comme elle est d\u00e9crite sur Camptocamp (www.camptocamp.org\/routes\/53808\/fr\/aiguille-du-peigne-voie-normale<\/a>).
\n– En ce mois d’ao\u00fbt piolets et crampons sont inutiles, on marche 20 m\u00e8tres sur le n\u00e9v\u00e9 du Peigne pour atteindre le chemin, nous \u00e9tions m\u00eame en baskets d’approche, le top!<\/p>\n

Plus d’infos sur Camptocamp:<\/u><\/strong>
\nwww.camptocamp.org\/outings\/785925\/fr\/aiguille-du-peigne-arete-des-papillons-puis-sortie-au-sommet<\/a><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_0_placeholder\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Apr\u00e8s l’Aiguille de l’M le weekend dernier (voir cet article), on reste dans les classiques chamoniardes avec la c\u00e9l\u00e9brissime ar\u00eate<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":12501,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"colormag_page_container_layout":"default_layout","colormag_page_sidebar_layout":"default_layout","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[5,9,4],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-12376","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-alpinisme","category-coup-de-gueule","category-escalade"],"yoast_head":"\nAr\u00eate des Papillons et voie normale du Peigne – L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - 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Mais on va \u00e0 C\u00e9\u00fcse, Fontainebleau, Buoux ou encore les Gorges du Verdon quand vous voulez.","sameAs":["http:\/\/www.grimpisme.com","https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/fredCaillouXvionnet","https:\/\/www.linkedin.com\/profile\/preview?vpa=pub&locale=fr_FR","https:\/\/fr.pinterest.com\/grimpisme\/","https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/user\/grimpisme","https:\/\/soundcloud.com\/fredvionnet"],"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/author\/fred\/"}]}},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/DSCF4476-1.jpg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p68Rw6-3dC","jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":19597,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/aiguille-peigne-lepidopteres-arete-sw\/","url_meta":{"origin":12376,"position":0},"title":"Aiguille du Peigne: \u00ab\u00a0Lepidopt\u00e8res\u00a0\u00bb et ar\u00eate SW","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"31 juillet 2020","format":false,"excerpt":"Apr\u00e8s un bivouac royal au-dessus du Lac Bleu, nous grimpons cette fois par \u00ab Les L\u00e9pidopt\u00e8res \u00bb puis l\u2019ar\u00eate SW, reliant les 2 itin\u00e9raires pas une partie de varappe sur la voie normale.","rel":"","context":"Dans "Alpinisme"","block_context":{"text":"Alpinisme","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/alpinisme\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"fissure lepiney aiguille peigne","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/WhatsApp-Image-2020-07-27-at-19.51.15-1.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/WhatsApp-Image-2020-07-27-at-19.51.15-1.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/WhatsApp-Image-2020-07-27-at-19.51.15-1.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/WhatsApp-Image-2020-07-27-at-19.51.15-1.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":5495,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/aiguille-orny-cabane\/","url_meta":{"origin":12376,"position":1},"title":"Granit aux aiguilles d’Orny et de la Cabane","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"9 juin 2015","format":false,"excerpt":"Nous avons pass\u00e9 2 nuits \u00e0 la cabane d\u2019Orny pour fuir la canicule et profiter des orages de fin de journ\u00e9e. Le plan initial \u00e9tait de gravir la face nord du Portalet le premier matin, puis de tripoter du granit le lendemain. Malheureusement le Portalet \u00e9tait d\u00e9j\u00e0 trop sec (\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Alpinisme"","block_context":{"text":"Alpinisme","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/alpinisme\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Aiguille de la Cabane","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/aiguille_cabane-300x225.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":10651,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/nouvelle-voie-rognon-plan-universal-studio-mercier-chatelan\/","url_meta":{"origin":12376,"position":2},"title":"Nouvelle voie au Rognon du Plan: \u00ab\u00a0Universal Studio\u00a0\u00bb M8\/650m par Mercier et Chatelan","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"13 mai 2016","format":false,"excerpt":"Le 5 mai 2016 Jeff Mercier et Simon Chatelan (simonchatelan.blogspot.fr) ouvraient \"Universal Studio\" (M8\/650m) au Rognon du Plan (face NW, 3601m, massif du Mont Blanc). Jeff raconte: \"J'aime beaucoup ce secteur dont l'int\u00e9r\u00eat m'a frapp\u00e9 alors que je parcourais en \u00e9t\u00e9 l'ar\u00eate Peigne-P\u00e9lerins-Aiguille des Deux Aigles-Aiguille du Plan. On atteint\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Alpinisme"","block_context":{"text":"Alpinisme","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/alpinisme\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"\"Universal Studio\", trac\u00e9 jaune","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/universal_studio_1-225x300.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":16644,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/pointe-percee-arete-doigt\/","url_meta":{"origin":12376,"position":3},"title":"La Pointe Perc\u00e9e par l’ar\u00eate du Doigt (Aravis)","author":"Thibault Beck","date":"14 ao\u00fbt 2018","format":false,"excerpt":"La longueur cl\u00e9 est splendide, gazeuse \u00e0 souhait. Le premier pas est \u00e0 peine teigneux mais bien prot\u00e9g\u00e9 et, pass\u00e9 ce s\u00e9same, les prises deviennent franches. Plus on monte, plus la fissure se fait accueillante, une belle r\u00e9compense.","rel":"","context":"Dans "Alpinisme"","block_context":{"text":"Alpinisme","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/alpinisme\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"arete doigt pointe percee","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/08\/thumb_DSC00278-2_1024.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":16372,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/cime-vallon-ecrins-valgaudemar\/","url_meta":{"origin":12376,"position":4},"title":"Alpinisme, Cime du Vallon, massif des Ecrins","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"1 juillet 2018","format":false,"excerpt":"La voie normale de la Cime du Vallon ne m\u2019a pas d\u00e9\u00e7u. Quel bonheur d\u2019\u00eatre seuls au sommet \u00e0 8h00 du matin, au coeur du massif. Mais attention, si cette course est cot\u00e9e F, F comme facile, les pentes sommitales sont expos\u00e9es et l\u2019une d\u2019elle est assez raide bien que\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Alpinisme"","block_context":{"text":"Alpinisme","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/alpinisme\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"alpinisme ecrins valgaudemar cime du vallon","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/P1120159.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/P1120159.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/P1120159.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/P1120159.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":16461,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/aiguille-purtscheller-arete-sud\/","url_meta":{"origin":12376,"position":5},"title":"Aiguille Purtscheller, ar\u00eate sud classique","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"20 juillet 2018","format":false,"excerpt":"Chaque longueur est belle, avec une mention sp\u00e9ciale \u00e0 la chemin\u00e9e sur feuillets, que Kirsten d\u00e9crit comme \u201cune longueur de 4c avec un pas de 6c pour passer un bloc coinc\u00e9\u201d. Elle exag\u00e8re un peu, mais c\u2019est vrai que le r\u00e9ta est vraiment pas simple du tout.","rel":"","context":"Dans "Alpinisme"","block_context":{"text":"Alpinisme","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/alpinisme\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Aiguille Purtscheller, ar\u00eate sud classique escalade","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/P1120240.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/P1120240.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/P1120240.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/P1120240.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/P1120240.jpg?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x"},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/12376","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=12376"}],"version-history":[{"count":17,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/12376\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":12503,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/12376\/revisions\/12503"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/12501"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=12376"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=12376"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=12376"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}