{"id":11675,"date":"2013-07-07T15:48:44","date_gmt":"2013-07-07T13:48:44","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/blog\/?p=4801"},"modified":"2021-06-11T15:15:58","modified_gmt":"2021-06-11T13:15:58","slug":"crochet-goutte-eau","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/crochet-goutte-eau\/","title":{"rendered":"Un crochet goutte d\u2019eau, pour quoi faire ?"},"content":{"rendered":"
En cas de coup dur lorsque l\u2019on grimpe en t\u00eate, et que \u00e7a commence \u00e0 sentir le but, la premi\u00e8re chose \u00e0 tenter quand le d\u00e9sespoir s\u2019installe est d\u2019utiliser une p\u00e9dale :<\/u><\/h6>\n

–\tPremi\u00e8re photo ci-dessous, Victor s\u00e8che et d\u00e9sesp\u00e8re, c\u2019est dur le grimpisme \u00e0 main nue !
\n–\tDeuxi\u00e8me photo, apr\u00e8s une crise de sanglots il reprend ses esprits et se vache sur le point avec 2 d\u00e9gaines.
\n–\tTroisi\u00e8me photo, Victor prend une sangle et avec un n\u0153ud sur celle-ci se confectionne une p\u00e9dale.
\n–\tQuatri\u00e8me photo, il passe un pied dans l\u2019\u00e9tage sup\u00e9rieur de la p\u00e9dale, se d\u00e9vache et se dresse pour atteindre une prise plus haute ou le prochain point.<\/p>\n

Voil\u00e0 c\u2019est utile et bien joli mais parfois cela ne suffit pas quand le prochain point est trop loin, que les prises sont trop petites et\/ou que vous avez peur et \u00eates fatigu\u00e9.<\/p>\n

A ce moment l\u00e0 le crochet \u00e0 goutte d\u2019eau peut vous rendre un grand service :<\/u><\/h6>\n

–\tCinqui\u00e8me photo, installer le crochet au bout de la p\u00e9dale, placer le haut dessus de vous et tester le en restant vach\u00e9 au point.
\n–\tSixi\u00e8me photo, d\u00e9vachez vous, clippez votre vache sur la p\u00e9dale (si le crochet ripe cela vous \u00e9vitera de perdre la p\u00e9dale et le crochet).
\n–\tSepti\u00e8me photo, dressez vous en douceur sur la p\u00e9dale.
\n–\tEt hop, vous voil\u00e0 \u00e0 la huiti\u00e8me photo, vous clippez en tremblant l\u00e9g\u00e8rement le point suivant. Ou alors vous placez un autre crochet au dessus, mais l\u00e0 \u00e7a devient de la vraie grimpe en artif et c’est une autre histoire.<\/p>\nngg_shortcode_0_placeholder\n

Il est tr\u00e8s important de ne pas se faire bloquer par votre assureur sur le crochet<\/span>, car dans ce cas les efforts impos\u00e9s au crochet seront plus importants (on appelle \u00e7a l\u2019effet poulie, le poids de votre assureur s\u2019ajoute au votre, en gros\u2026).
\nAvoir un crochet dans le sac ou au baudrier peut donc vous \u00e9viter une retraite d\u00e9licate lors d\u2019une parcours d\u2019une voie de plusieurs longueurs, surtout si les cotations sont proches de votre niveau max.<\/p>\n

Il existe plusieurs types de crochets, le mieux est d\u2019avoir un crochet polyvalent comme le Talon de Black Diamond<\/a> qui conviendra \u00e0 plusieurs types de trous et r\u00e9glettes et qui est stable gr\u00e2ce \u00e0 ses 3 pattes.<\/p>\n

Il faut pr\u00e9ciser que l\u2019on peut r\u00e9aliser le m\u00eame type de manip avec un coinceur, une lunule, un piton, bref tout ce qui peut vous sauver la mise. Pr\u00e9cisons \u00e9galement que ces photos ont \u00e9t\u00e9 prises sans casque car en falaise, et enfin que Victor Estrangin ne bute JAMAIS (dans le 6c). D’ailleurs si vous cherchez un guide de haute montagne aff\u00fbt\u00e9 comme un avion de chasse, contactez-nous pour avoir ses coordonn\u00e9es (par ici les admiratrices !).<\/p>\n

Pour terminer, toutes vos remarques et compl\u00e9ments seront les bienvenus car cet article ne pr\u00e9sente qu\u2019une fa\u00e7on de faire parmi beaucoup d\u2019autres. Donc n\u2019h\u00e9sitez pas \u00e0 poster un commentaire et \u00e9videmment \u00e0 tester la manip avant qu\u2019elle ne soit le dernier recours, car elle est d\u00e9licate!<\/strong> Avoir recours \u00e0 un moniteur escalade<\/a> pour une formation n’est pas idiot pour une manoeuvre si pointue.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Quand on ne parvient pas \u00e0 passer dans une voie, un crochet goutte d’eau peut \u00eatre tr\u00e8s utile. Mais comment on fait?<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":20934,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"colormag_page_container_layout":"default_layout","colormag_page_sidebar_layout":"default_layout","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[4,207],"tags":[231,17,229,230],"class_list":["post-11675","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-escalade","category-techniques-de-corde-et-securite","tag-crochet-goutte-deau","tag-escalade","tag-escalade-artificielle","tag-manip"],"yoast_head":"\nComment utiliser un crochet goutte d'eau? - Grimpisme, escalade<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Quand on ne parvient pas \u00e0 passer dans une voie, un crochet goutte d'eau peut \u00eatre tr\u00e8s utile. 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Mais on va \u00e0 C\u00e9\u00fcse, Fontainebleau, Buoux ou encore les Gorges du Verdon quand vous voulez.","sameAs":["http:\/\/www.grimpisme.com","https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/fredCaillouXvionnet","https:\/\/www.linkedin.com\/profile\/preview?vpa=pub&locale=fr_FR","https:\/\/fr.pinterest.com\/grimpisme\/","https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/user\/grimpisme","https:\/\/soundcloud.com\/fredvionnet"],"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/author\/fred\/"}]}},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/07\/P1150392.jpg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p68Rw6-32j","jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":18140,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/quand-comment-finir-seance-entrainement\/","url_meta":{"origin":11675,"position":0},"title":"Quand et comment finir une s\u00e9ance d’entrainement en escalade?","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"3 octobre 2019","format":false,"excerpt":"En observant les grimpeurs dans les salles de plastique, je pense qu'il tr\u00e8s utile de parler de la fin d\u2019une s\u00e9ance d\u2019entrainement. Avec des erreurs \u00e0 \u00e9viter.","rel":"","context":"Dans "Conseils entrainement escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Conseils entrainement escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/entrainement-escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"entrainement escalade","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/entrainement-escalade.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/entrainement-escalade.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/entrainement-escalade.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/entrainement-escalade.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":11644,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/test-boostic-scarpa\/","url_meta":{"origin":11675,"position":1},"title":"Test Boostic Scarpa","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"22 juillet 2012","format":false,"excerpt":"Nous avons rentr\u00e9 dans le magasin les nouveaux Boostic de Scarpa d\u00e9but juin. C'est la premi\u00e8re fois que j'utilisais des chaussons Scarpa, je les ai pris en taille 40 (pour du 42 en ville, 38.5 Sportiva, 42 FiveTen), ce qui me semble la bonne pointure apr\u00e8s plus d'un mois d'utilisation\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "News et actu"","block_context":{"text":"News et actu","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/news\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"test scarpa chausson boostic escalade","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/blog-v1\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/scarpa-boostic2-300x242.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":11631,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/cime-charvie-couloir-nord\/","url_meta":{"origin":11675,"position":2},"title":"Charvie again","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"9 avril 2012","format":false,"excerpt":"Plus que 50 m\u00e8tres, plus que 30 m\u00e8tres, plus que 20 m\u00e8tres... dur dur pour sortir le couloir. Des gobelets dans une pente bien raide avec de la neige jusqu'au ventre entre des rochers qui sont trop ronds pour proposer des prises, soit 1000 de deniv en 3h15, c'est ce\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Ski de rando et freeride"","block_context":{"text":"Ski de rando et freeride","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/ski-freeride\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]},{"id":11657,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/breche-sud-heuvieres-couloir-nord-ceillac\/","url_meta":{"origin":11675,"position":3},"title":"Br\u00e8che sud des Heuvi\u00e8res, couloir Nord, Ceillac","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"22 f\u00e9vrier 2013","format":false,"excerpt":"Et voil\u00e0 une nouvelle escapade sur Ceillac! Avec Charlie nous sommes mont\u00e9s ce vendredi aprem pour rider un couloir de la Font Sancte au dessus de la vall\u00e9e de Ceillac (j'ai achet\u00e9 un carnet de tickets pour les RM, d\u2019o\u00f9 mon assiduit\u00e9 en ces lieux, mais aussi j\u2019adore !). Le\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Ski de rando et freeride"","block_context":{"text":"Ski de rando et freeride","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/ski-freeride\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]},{"id":11512,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/escalade_cimai_stage\/","url_meta":{"origin":11675,"position":4},"title":"Rapide passage au Cima\u00ef","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"29 d\u00e9cembre 2009","format":false,"excerpt":"Nous voil\u00e0 au Cima\u00ef, pas bien r\u00e9veill\u00e9s apr\u00e8s 3 heures de route et une heure de coucher trop tardive. Ben ouais dur dur la p\u00e9riode des f\u00eates. Ouarf, c'est toujours aussi beau, ca faisait une paye que je n'avait pas mis les doigts ici. Toujours aussi beau mais toujours aussi\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "News et actu"","block_context":{"text":"News et actu","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/news\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Cima\u00ef","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/12\/P1080538.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":3582,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/test-chaussures-salomon-x-alp-crampons-g1-grivel\/","url_meta":{"origin":11675,"position":5},"title":"Test chaussures Salomon X-Alp + crampons G1 Grivel","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"9 octobre 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"C\u2019est vrai qu\u2019il y a peu de temps je fustigeais les tests mat\u00e9riels faits \u00e0 la vite sur le web. Dans cet article je vous propose pourtant un test des nouvelles chaussures Salomon X-Alp que je ne n\u2019utilise que depuis la fin ao\u00fbt (voir plus bas la liste des sorties\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"chaussure xalp salomon","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/10\/P1050252-2-300x200.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11675","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=11675"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11675\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":20937,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11675\/revisions\/20937"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/20934"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=11675"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=11675"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=11675"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}