{"id":11620,"date":"2012-01-09T12:33:30","date_gmt":"2012-01-09T11:33:30","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/blog\/?p=2706"},"modified":"2016-06-14T19:31:39","modified_gmt":"2016-06-14T18:31:39","slug":"test-chausson-yalla-millet","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/test-chausson-yalla-millet\/","title":{"rendered":"Test du nouveau chausson Yalla de Millet"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Me voil\u00e0 de retour d\u2019un petit weekend de grimpe \u00e0 la paroi des toits de Sugiton et au Cima\u00ef, sous un ciel grand bleu et un mistral bien \u00e9nerv\u00e9 qui nous offra de bonnes conditions de collante.  Malheureusement mes avant-bras n\u2019\u00e9taient pas aux rendez-vous suite \u00e0 trop de sollicitations entre No\u00ebl et le Nouvel An, d\u2019ailleurs je ne les aurais pas pris cela n\u2019aurait rien chang\u00e9 (un jour peut \u00eatre je serai suffisamment raisonnable pour ne pas en faire trop et me reposer plutot que de me joindre aux s\u00e9ances de pan des potes qui passent bourriner \u00e0 la maison &#8230;). L\u2019essentiel c\u2019est d\u2019avoir bien pris l\u2019air et de s\u2019\u00eatre fait plaisir dans de belles voies en 7a\/7a+, entre grosses prises rondes des toits et rougnasses pointues du Cima\u00ef (Williwaw en 7a+&#8230;  \u00e7a fait pas rigoler).<\/p>\n<p>J\u2019en ai profit\u00e9 pour tester le nouveau mod\u00e8le de chaussons Yalla de Millet que nous avons re\u00e7u vendredi. C\u2019est un nouveau chausson haut de gamme qui vient remplacer le Pro Model DD Dulac et est annonc\u00e9 comme ultra pr\u00e9cis par le fabricant.<\/p>\n<p>J\u2019ai pris la pointure 41 1\/3 mais c\u2019est un poil petit et je vais souffrir pour les faire, je vous conseillerais de les prendre \u00e0 votre pointure , comme pour les chaussons Fiveten (je fais du 42 en ville, je prends du 42 en Fiveten et 38.5 en La Sportiva).<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Les moins :<\/span><br \/>\n&#8211;\tLa tige remonte un petit peu haut sur la mall\u00e9ole et le tendon d&rsquo;Achille, j\u2019ai eu peur que cela me g\u00eane au d\u00e9but, finalement cela n\u2019est pas arriv\u00e9<br \/>\n&#8211;\tLa pointe est trop ronde pour les petits trous<br \/>\n&#8211;\tLa cambrure de la semelle gagnerait \u00e0 \u00eatre un peu plus marqu\u00e9e<br \/>\n&#8211;\tL\u2019avant du chausson est large et volumineux, un peu trop m\u00eame pour mon pied, en cons\u00e9quence le chausson a tendance \u00e0 se casser un peu sur l\u2019avant lors des appuis sur petite prises et on profite moins de leur rigidit\u00e9.<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Les plus :<\/span><br \/>\n&#8211;\tLe syst\u00e8me de la\u00e7age est pr\u00e9cis et coulisse bien<br \/>\n&#8211;\tLe look et le nom!<br \/>\n&#8211;\tLe talon qui pousse bien et n\u2019est pas trop rond (crochetage sur adh\u00e9rences mais aussi r\u00e9glettes)<br \/>\n&#8211;\tLa gomme, dure mais adh\u00e9rente, avec une bonne \u00e9paisseur \u00e0 neuf histoire de soigner la long\u00e9vit\u00e9<br \/>\n&#8211;\tLa rigidit\u00e9 des carres.<\/p>\n<p>Le Yalla est donc <span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">selon mes exigences et habitudes<\/span> un bon chausson sans aucun doute mais gagnerait \u00e0 \u00eatre radicalis\u00e9 (plus \u00e9troit, pointu, et plus cambr\u00e9 \u00e9ventuellement) pour devenir une v\u00e9ritable arme de haut niveau . Son volume ravira les pieds forts qui grimpent d\u00e9j\u00e0 \u00e0 bon niveau ou veulent \u00e9voluer vers un chausson plus performant.<\/p>\nngg_shortcode_0_placeholder\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Me voil\u00e0 de retour d\u2019un petit weekend de grimpe \u00e0 la paroi des toits de Sugiton et au Cima\u00ef, sous<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"colormag_page_container_layout":"default_layout","colormag_page_sidebar_layout":"default_layout","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[3],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-11620","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-tests-materiel"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.6 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Test du nouveau chausson Yalla de Millet &#8211; 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Beaut\u00e9 du paysage, qui\u00e9tude des lieux, compagnie des aigles et des tichodromes, le top! Il faut parler aussi du rocher, qui malgr\u00e9 quelques rares zones fragiles\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans &quot;News et actu&quot;","block_context":{"text":"News et actu","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/news\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]},{"id":1716,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/prises-taillees-roche-motte\/","url_meta":{"origin":11620,"position":1},"title":"Les prises taill\u00e9es de la Roche Motte (05)","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"10 mai 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"Je ne comprends pas la motivation des ouvreurs. Leurs niveaux techniques ne leur permettait pas d'envisager la voie comme possible sans bidouiller?","rel":"","context":"Dans &quot;Coups de gueule&quot;","block_context":{"text":"Coups de gueule","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/coup-de-gueule\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"escalade roche motte hautes alpes","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/P1040135-300x225.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":11512,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/escalade_cimai_stage\/","url_meta":{"origin":11620,"position":2},"title":"Rapide passage au Cima\u00ef","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"29 d\u00e9cembre 2009","format":false,"excerpt":"Nous voil\u00e0 au Cima\u00ef, pas bien r\u00e9veill\u00e9s apr\u00e8s 3 heures de route et une heure de coucher trop tardive. Ben ouais dur dur la p\u00e9riode des f\u00eates. Ouarf, c'est toujours aussi beau, ca faisait une paye que je n'avait pas mis les doigts ici. Toujours aussi beau mais toujours aussi\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans &quot;News et actu&quot;","block_context":{"text":"News et actu","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/news\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Cima\u00ef","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/12\/P1080538.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":22623,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/conjuration-imbeciles-buoux\/","url_meta":{"origin":11620,"position":3},"title":"[RETOUR D\u2019EXPERIENCE] Un projet de 32 ans \u00e0 Buoux: peur et concentration","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"2 mars 2023","format":false,"excerpt":"Une voie de Buoux enchain\u00e9e 32 ans apr\u00e8s la premi\u00e8re mont\u00e9e. Pas commun non? Ce qui compte c'est le plaisir et l'instant pr\u00e9sent!","rel":"","context":"Dans &quot;Conseils entrainement escalade&quot;","block_context":{"text":"Conseils entrainement escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/entrainement-escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"stage escalade climbing buoux","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/03\/IMG_20230223_143200.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/03\/IMG_20230223_143200.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/03\/IMG_20230223_143200.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/03\/IMG_20230223_143200.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/03\/IMG_20230223_143200.jpg?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/03\/IMG_20230223_143200.jpg?resize=1400%2C800&ssl=1 4x"},"classes":[]},{"id":26620,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/test-chausson-escalade-indalo-tenaya\/","url_meta":{"origin":11620,"position":4},"title":"Test chaussons escalade Indalo de Tenaya","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"19 janvier 2025","format":false,"excerpt":"Un retour tr\u00e8s positif sur ces chaussons tr\u00e8s polyvalents et confortables. On en voit beaucoup, c'est justifi\u00e9.","rel":"","context":"Dans &quot;Escalade&quot;","block_context":{"text":"Escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"test chausson escalade indalo tenaya","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/12\/IMG_4283.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/12\/IMG_4283.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/12\/IMG_4283.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/12\/IMG_4283.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":11644,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/test-boostic-scarpa\/","url_meta":{"origin":11620,"position":5},"title":"Test Boostic Scarpa","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"22 juillet 2012","format":false,"excerpt":"Nous avons rentr\u00e9 dans le magasin les nouveaux Boostic de Scarpa d\u00e9but juin. C'est la premi\u00e8re fois que j'utilisais des chaussons Scarpa, je les ai pris en taille 40 (pour du 42 en ville, 38.5 Sportiva, 42 FiveTen), ce qui me semble la bonne pointure apr\u00e8s plus d'un mois d'utilisation\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans &quot;News et actu&quot;","block_context":{"text":"News et actu","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/news\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"test scarpa chausson boostic escalade","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/blog-v1\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/scarpa-boostic2-300x242.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11620","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=11620"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11620\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":11789,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11620\/revisions\/11789"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=11620"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=11620"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=11620"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}