{"id":11618,"date":"2011-12-29T11:34:52","date_gmt":"2011-12-29T10:34:52","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/blog\/?p=2650"},"modified":"2011-12-29T11:34:52","modified_gmt":"2011-12-29T10:34:52","slug":"reverso4-petzl","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/reverso4-petzl\/","title":{"rendered":"Mmmm la bonne dalle…"},"content":{"rendered":"

Merci Papa No\u00ebl pour ce bel anticyclone qui nous apporte de super conditions de grimpe dans le 05 (\u00e0 d\u00e9faut de bonne neige ou de glace).
\nC’est le deuxi\u00e8me jour de suite que je pendouille dans Highball \u00e0 Saint Cr\u00e9pin(poulies city) et c’est trop pour mes doigts qui ressemblent \u00e0 des merguez trop cuites, du coup je suis plus utile en faisant des images.
\nDu coup voici une petit vid\u00e9o de Sylvain Rivoire<\/a> (Montagne-experience.com<\/a>) dans Nuit D’amour, un 7c en bien exigeant avec un premier mur teigneux puis un r\u00e9ta proche de la l\u00e9vitation, avec une bonne prise qu’il faut bloquer tr\u00e8s tr\u00e8s bas avec des pieds bien moisis.
\nSi ce s\u00e9visse vous branche, sachez que Sylvain a partiellement r\u00e9-\u00e9quip\u00e9 la voie, ce qui rend l’assurage plus serein. Mais attention, avec le nouveau spit en haut, c’est biscuit de prendre la fissure du 5c de droite! Si un local vous prend sur le fait vous risquez excommunication, voir m\u00eame une radiation de 8a.nu<\/a>.
\nParcourir cette voie c’est un peu comme feuilletez un livre d’histoire, entre prises patin\u00e9es, taill\u00e9es puis rebouch\u00e9es, chevilles de 8mm…. on est bien loin du pan.<\/p>\n

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Merci Papa No\u00ebl pour ce bel anticyclone qui nous apporte de super conditions de grimpe dans le 05 (\u00e0 d\u00e9faut<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"colormag_page_container_layout":"default_layout","colormag_page_sidebar_layout":"default_layout","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[3],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-11618","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-tests-materiel"],"yoast_head":"\nMmmm la bonne dalle... – L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\/moniteur escalade<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/reverso4-petzl\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Mmmm la bonne dalle... – L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\/moniteur escalade\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Merci Papa No\u00ebl pour ce bel anticyclone qui nous apporte de super conditions de grimpe dans le 05 (\u00e0 d\u00e9faut\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/reverso4-petzl\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\/moniteur escalade\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/grimpisme\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:author\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/fredCaillouXvionnet\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2011-12-29T10:34:52+00:00\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Fred Vionnet\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"\u00c9crit par\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Fred Vionnet\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Dur\u00e9e de lecture estim\u00e9e\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"1 minute\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/reverso4-petzl\\\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/reverso4-petzl\\\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Fred Vionnet\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/e0e0520aa48cfda56ae5406c2fe2caeb\"},\"headline\":\"Mmmm la bonne dalle…\",\"datePublished\":\"2011-12-29T10:34:52+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/reverso4-petzl\\\/\"},\"wordCount\":208,\"commentCount\":0,\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/#organization\"},\"articleSection\":[\"Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures\"],\"inLanguage\":\"fr-FR\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"CommentAction\",\"name\":\"Comment\",\"target\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/reverso4-petzl\\\/#respond\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/reverso4-petzl\\\/\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/reverso4-petzl\\\/\",\"name\":\"Mmmm la bonne dalle... – L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - 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Des gobelets dans une pente bien raide avec de la neige jusqu'au ventre entre des rochers qui sont trop ronds pour proposer des prises, soit 1000 de deniv en 3h15, c'est ce\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Ski de rando et freeride"","block_context":{"text":"Ski de rando et freeride","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/ski-freeride\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]},{"id":11639,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/solene-amoros-blog\/","url_meta":{"origin":11618,"position":1},"title":"Sol\u00e8ne, le blog","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"17 juin 2012","format":false,"excerpt":"Hier nous \u00e9tions, avec les jeunes du club, dans le canyon du Rif d'Oriol. Nous sommes arriv\u00e9s t\u00f4t, vers 10h. Vu que la journ\u00e9e s'est av\u00e9r\u00e9e chaude, le monde est arriv\u00e9e petit \u00e0 petit mais r\u00e9guli\u00e8rement, \u00e0 la recherche de la fraicheur. 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Avec 2 approches diff\u00e9rentes.","rel":"","context":"Dans "Conseils entrainement escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Conseils entrainement escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/entrainement-escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"livre psychologie escalade kevin roet","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/psychologie-escalade-entrainement-mental-performances-optimales-150x150.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/psychologie-escalade-entrainement-mental-performances-optimales-150x150.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/psychologie-escalade-entrainement-mental-performances-optimales-150x150.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/psychologie-escalade-entrainement-mental-performances-optimales-150x150.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":11657,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/breche-sud-heuvieres-couloir-nord-ceillac\/","url_meta":{"origin":11618,"position":3},"title":"Br\u00e8che sud des Heuvi\u00e8res, couloir Nord, Ceillac","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"22 f\u00e9vrier 2013","format":false,"excerpt":"Et voil\u00e0 une nouvelle escapade sur Ceillac! Avec Charlie nous sommes mont\u00e9s ce vendredi aprem pour rider un couloir de la Font Sancte au dessus de la vall\u00e9e de Ceillac (j'ai achet\u00e9 un carnet de tickets pour les RM, d\u2019o\u00f9 mon assiduit\u00e9 en ces lieux, mais aussi j\u2019adore !). Le\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Ski de rando et freeride"","block_context":{"text":"Ski de rando et freeride","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/ski-freeride\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]},{"id":16090,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/cap-canaille-calanques-stage-escalade\/","url_meta":{"origin":11618,"position":4},"title":"Cap Canaille, Calanques et Venasque, avril 2018","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"3 mai 2018","format":false,"excerpt":"Apr\u00e8s les premi\u00e8res aventures de l\u2019ann\u00e9e derni\u00e8re au Sal\u00e8ve, \u00e0 la dalle du Tuet ou encore \u00e0 Orpierre, nous sommes partis pour 5 jours dans les Calanques et \u00e0 Cap Canaille. Voici les compte-rendu de nos journ\u00e9es de grimpe.","rel":"","context":"Dans "Mes sorties - retours d'exp\u00e9rience"","block_context":{"text":"Mes sorties - retours d'exp\u00e9rience","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/mes-sorties\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"cap canaille stage escalade calanques","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/04\/canaille.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/04\/canaille.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/04\/canaille.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/04\/canaille.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":11628,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/col-coste-rouge\/","url_meta":{"origin":11618,"position":5},"title":"Col de Coste Rouge","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"31 mars 2012","format":false,"excerpt":"Trop train\u00e9 jeudi soir, mal dormi cette nuit avec un lever \u00e0 4h50, et voil\u00e0 que cet Oliv' part comme un cl\u00e9bard apr\u00e8s 17 m\u00e8tres d'\u00e9chauffement. Je limite les d\u00e9g\u00e2ts sur cette longue remont\u00e9e du Glacier Noir, mais quand on arrive au pied du couloir E de mont\u00e9e au col\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Ski de rando et freeride"","block_context":{"text":"Ski de rando et freeride","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/ski-freeride\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11618","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=11618"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11618\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=11618"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=11618"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=11618"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}