{"id":11607,"date":"2011-09-14T10:04:51","date_gmt":"2011-09-14T09:04:51","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/blog\/?p=2445"},"modified":"2016-06-14T08:47:03","modified_gmt":"2016-06-14T07:47:03","slug":"test-corde-beal-diablo","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/test-corde-beal-diablo\/","title":{"rendered":"Test corde Beal DIABLO"},"content":{"rendered":"

Voil\u00e0 enfin le test de la nouvelle corde Diablo de B\u00e9al. J’aurais aim\u00e9 le sortir plus t\u00f4t mais le temps pour grimper et tester convenablement m’a manqu\u00e9 derni\u00e8rement.<\/p>\n

Le proc\u00e9d\u00e9 Unicore est appliqu\u00e9 \u00e0 cette corde, alors qu’il \u00e9tait jusqu’\u00e0 pr\u00e9sent r\u00e9serv\u00e9 aux cordes semi-statiques. L’\u00e2me et la gaine restent solidaires \u00e0 l’usage ce qui permet d’\u00e9viter \u00ab\u00a0l’effet chaussette\u00a0\u00bb (la gaine qui glisse sur l’\u00e2me, du coup le vieillissement de la corde s’acc\u00e9l\u00e8re). Ainsi Beal annonce une corde plus fluide et souple qu’une corde de diam\u00e8tre 10.2 classique, avec une gaine plus lisse.
\nCliquez ici<\/a> pour en savoir plus.<\/p>\n

Passons maintenant au test sur le terrain.<\/p>\n

On va commencer par le seul point faible de cette corde selon moi, qui se manifeste lors de l’assurage \u00e0 la descente. J’ai utilis\u00e9 le Grigri\u00b2 pour ce test. Il est alors relativement difficile de gerer un descente fluide<\/span>, car le passage de la corde dans l’appareil se fait par \u00e0-coups \u00e0 chaque changement de couleur sur la gaine. Attention je ne veux pas dire que votre grimpeur va \u00eatre secou\u00e9 comme un prunier lors de sa descente en moulinette, par contre vous devrez vous appliquez pour rendre la vitesse de coulissement la plus r\u00e9guli\u00e8re possible, d’autant plus que les frottements seront faibles et le grimpeur lourd.<\/p>\n

La fluidit\u00e9 et la souplesse<\/span> annonc\u00e9es sont r\u00e9ellement au rendez-vous. On a plus l’impression de grimper avec une corde de 9.5mm de diam\u00e8tre que 10.2mm. Les mousquetonnages sont agr\u00e9ables et en anticipant vous clipperez en une fois sans prendre la corde dans les dents. Pourtant le poids est conforme au diam\u00e8tre (64g le m\u00e8tre, comme la Flyer 10.2).
\nC\u00f4t\u00e9 assurage, fluidit\u00e9 et souplesse sont \u00e9galement pr\u00e9sentes pour donner du mou rapidement sans difficult\u00e9.<\/p>\n

Quant \u00e0 la long\u00e9vit\u00e9, elle est sup\u00e9rieure \u00e0 une corde de 10.2mm habituelle<\/span>. Sur des essais dans \u00ab\u00a0Entre les r\u00e8gles<\/a>\u00a0\u00bb \u00e0 Entraygues (cotation stabilis\u00e9e \u00e0 8a+), j’ai r\u00e9ussi \u00e0 bruler et noircir la gaine ce qui a rendu la corde ovale sur un bon m\u00e8tre. Il faut dire que cette voie est tr\u00e8s courte (facteur de chute \u00e9lev\u00e9), que l’assureur \u00e9tait oblig\u00e9 de me s\u00e9cher pour que je ne finisse pas au sol et qu’en bon testeur consciencieux je ne me suis jamais vach\u00e9 pour que la corde se repose. Heureusement le proc\u00e9d\u00e9 Unicore a jou\u00e9 son r\u00f4le en maintenant parfaitement la gaine en place, elle s’est faiblement effiloch\u00e9e mais sans aucune perte de souplesse pour le moment.<\/p>\n

Pour conclure, la corde Diablo est vraiment une r\u00e9ussite car elle vous donnera la possibilit\u00e9 d’allier la fluidit\u00e9 d’une corde \u00e0 simple de petit diam\u00e8tre avec la long\u00e9vit\u00e9 aux frottements et aux chocs d’une corde de \u00ab\u00a0gros\u00a0\u00bb diam\u00e8tre. C’est une r\u00e9elle avanc\u00e9e selon moi. La corde sera prochainement dispo sur la boutique.
\nA noter que l’Absolute Pro Millet est arriv\u00e9e, mais en 70m uniquement pour le moment.<\/p>\nngg_shortcode_0_placeholder\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Voil\u00e0 enfin le test de la nouvelle corde Diablo de B\u00e9al. J’aurais aim\u00e9 le sortir plus t\u00f4t mais le temps<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"colormag_page_container_layout":"default_layout","colormag_page_sidebar_layout":"default_layout","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[3],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-11607","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-tests-materiel"],"yoast_head":"\nTest corde Beal DIABLO – L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\/moniteur escalade<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/test-corde-beal-diablo\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Test corde Beal DIABLO – L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\/moniteur escalade\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Voil\u00e0 enfin le test de la nouvelle corde Diablo de B\u00e9al. 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Pas contre une grande voie non plus. 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Cette nouvelle version de la Joker b\u00e9n\u00e9ficie d\u00e9sormais de la technologie Unicore, que j\u2019avais d\u00e9j\u00e0 pu essayer et appr\u00e9cier sur la corde Diablo (voir le test).\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures"","block_context":{"text":"Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/tests-materiel\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"corde escalade joker beal unicore","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/blog-v1\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/06\/test_joker-300x168.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":4009,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/test-corde-gully-beal\/","url_meta":{"origin":11607,"position":1},"title":"Test de la corde Gully Beal","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"27 novembre 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"Voil\u00e0 un peu plus d'un an que la corde Gully B\u00e9al est sortie et que nous l'utilisons. Le recul est maintenant suffisant pour publier un test apr\u00e8s une utilisation r\u00e9guli\u00e8re (voir la liste des courses effectu\u00e9es avec la Gully plus bas). Et oui chez Grimpisme on ne teste pas le\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures"","block_context":{"text":"Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/tests-materiel\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"test_corde_gully_beal (2)","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/test_corde_gully_beal-2-300x225.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":11604,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/test-corde-absolute-pro-millet\/","url_meta":{"origin":11607,"position":2},"title":"Test corde Absolute Pro Millet","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"28 juillet 2011","format":false,"excerpt":"Ce printemps la soci\u00e9t\u00e9 Millet m'avait gentiment envoy\u00e9 une corde Absolute Pro en 70m \u00e0 tester. Voil\u00e0 enfin le r\u00e9sultat du test apr\u00e8s ceux de No Spot et Escalade-Alsace. Donc pour pr\u00e9senter cette ficelle rapidement, elle ne fait que 9mm de diam\u00e8tre et satisfait aux exigences des 3 types de\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures"","block_context":{"text":"Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/tests-materiel\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]},{"id":11666,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/avis-choix-corde\/","url_meta":{"origin":11607,"position":3},"title":"Comment choisir votre corde de falaise?","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"23 mai 2013","format":false,"excerpt":"Ce n\u2019est pas toujours facile de s\u2019y retrouver quand on veut acheter une corde de falaise. Diam\u00e8tre, longueur, traitement, conception, \u2026 voici un petit article pour vous aider \u00e0 s\u2019y retrouver dans les diff\u00e9rentes cordes. Vous \u00eates un pratiquant occasionnel, plut\u00f4t sur mur que falaise ? Les cordes Edlinger Beal\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures"","block_context":{"text":"Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/tests-materiel\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"choix corde escalade et avis","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/blog-v1\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/05\/AAA_0504-300x193.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":3430,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/corde-beal-opera\/","url_meta":{"origin":11607,"position":4},"title":"New Beal Opera ropeNouvelle corde Beal Opera 8.5","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"24 septembre 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"The new 8.5 Beal Opera rope, only 48 grammes per meter, the lightest single rope, is available on the webshop! We had chance to get an Opera for personnal use 3 weeks ago. It looks very resistant and Grigri\u00b2 works perfectly with it. Final test will come in several weeks\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"corde escalade beal","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/09\/P1150670-194x300.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":11536,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/longueur-diametre-corde-escalade\/","url_meta":{"origin":11607,"position":5},"title":"Choix longueur et diam\u00e8tre d’une corde de falaise","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"6 mai 2010","format":false,"excerpt":"Dans les diff\u00e9rents mod\u00e8les de corde \u00e0 simple propos\u00e9s, il n'est pas toujours facile de s'y retrouver. Voici quelques conseils pour s'y retrouver: Quelle longueur? 70 m suffisent pour la plupart des falaises et c'est donc la longueur standard actuelle, m\u00eame si 80 m\u00e8tres sont parfois indispensables sur les spots\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Techniques de corde et s\u00e9curit\u00e9"","block_context":{"text":"Techniques de corde et s\u00e9curit\u00e9","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/techniques-de-corde-et-securite\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11607","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=11607"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11607\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":11776,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11607\/revisions\/11776"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=11607"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=11607"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=11607"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}