{"id":11576,"date":"2011-02-10T21:30:37","date_gmt":"2011-02-10T20:30:37","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/blog\/?p=1650"},"modified":"2021-01-21T12:25:42","modified_gmt":"2021-01-21T11:25:42","slug":"capitaine-courageux-fournel-glace","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/capitaine-courageux-fournel-glace\/","title":{"rendered":"Le capitaine n’est pas courageux et prend un but"},"content":{"rendered":"

Une belle journ\u00e9e au Fournel avec tr\u00e8s peu de monde (5 voitures au parking du terminus) et des temp\u00e9ratures somme toute de saison, c’est \u00e0 dire -7\u00b0 \u00e0 9h30.<\/p>\n

J’\u00e9tais avec Thibault et Martial, les ouvreurs du \u00ab\u00a0le Bourrier aime se rouler dans le schiste<\/a>\u00ab\u00a0, des gars qui ont du v\u00e9cu dans l’activit\u00e9, contrairement \u00e0 moi. Nous sommes partis pour \u00ab\u00a0Capitaine Courageux<\/a>\u00ab\u00a0, un itin\u00e9raire bien impressionnant depuis le bas. M\u00eame si les 3 premi\u00e8res longueurs ne sont pas difficiles, je suis tendu et je grimpe comme une patate. La glace est parfois sorbet, parfois cassante, selon que l’on se trouve sur de la glace en formation ou sur de la vieille glace bien dure.<\/p>\n

A la fin de ces 3 longueurs, les gars d\u00e9cident de sortir par \u00ab\u00a0Clair de lunule<\/a>\u00ab\u00a0, un cigare vraiment impressionnant en 5+. Ni l’un ni l’autre de mes compagnons de cord\u00e9e ne se sentira assez en confiance pour s’engager v\u00e9ritablement dans le cigare, et donc y’a but!
\nCe sera l’occasion de r\u00e9viser les manoeuvres de rechap’, avec rappel sur une lunule naturelle sur un brin \u00e0 double, et assurage sur l’autre brin comme si le grimpeur d\u00e9sescaladait en t\u00eate.<\/p>\n

Ce n’est pas le premier but et cela ne sera pas le dernier, rien de grave! 3 rappels en rive droite (arbre au d\u00e9but puis lunules en place), on saute sur les skis et zou \u00e0 la voiture, avec un Martial qui nous fait des acrobaties sur ses skis d’approche, chauss\u00e9 de ses chaussures en cuir. Il serait peut \u00eatre temps de passer au rocher et ski de rando, mais le froid revient…<\/p>\nngg_shortcode_0_placeholder\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Une belle journ\u00e9e au Fournel avec tr\u00e8s peu de monde (5 voitures au parking du terminus) et des temp\u00e9ratures somme<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"colormag_page_container_layout":"default_layout","colormag_page_sidebar_layout":"default_layout","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[5,207],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-11576","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-alpinisme","category-techniques-de-corde-et-securite"],"yoast_head":"\nLe capitaine n'est pas courageux et prend un but – L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - 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Cette fois-ci j'\u00e9tais au secteur Hiroshima de la mythique vall\u00e9e du Fournel. Une fois de plus, je prends ma revanche sur les \u00e9t\u00e9s ou je passe mon temps d\u00e9guis\u00e9 en otarie \u00e0 faire\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Ski de rando et freeride"","block_context":{"text":"Ski de rando et freeride","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/ski-freeride\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"P1100363 copie","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/12\/P1100363-copie-300x168.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":11688,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/nouveau-topo-cascade-glace-queyras\/","url_meta":{"origin":11576,"position":1},"title":"Nouveau topo cascades de glace dans le Queyras","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"15 d\u00e9cembre 2013","format":false,"excerpt":"Voici la premi\u00e8re \u00e9dition du tout nouveau topo des cascades de glace du Queyras. Vu le peu de neige dans le coin en ce moment, et le froid, c'est le bon moment pour d\u00e9couvrir plein de nouveaux itin\u00e9raires, et\/ou faire un cadeau de No\u00ebl sympa! Les glaciairistes Queyrassins vous invitent\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures"","block_context":{"text":"Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/tests-materiel\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"topo cascade de glace queyras viso","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/blog-v1\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/12\/couv_glace.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":6675,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/nouvelle-voie-face-nord-pic-sans-nom-ecrins\/","url_meta":{"origin":11576,"position":2},"title":"Nouvelle voie dans la Face Nord du Pic Sans Nom","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"28 octobre 2015","format":false,"excerpt":"Du 19 au 21 octobre 2015, Benjamin Brochard, Jonathan Joly et Fred Degoulet ont ouvert une nouvelle voie d'ampleur dans la sauvage face nord du Pic Sans Nom (3913m, massif des Ecrins). \"Le Prestige des Ecrins\" (1000m, V, M6+, 6a) a \u00e9t\u00e9 ouverte dans des conditions techniques et d\u00e9licates avec\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Alpinisme"","block_context":{"text":"Alpinisme","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/alpinisme\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"pic sans nom ecrins","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/pic_sans_nom-300x200.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":11569,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/cascade-glace-razis-crevoux\/","url_meta":{"origin":11576,"position":3},"title":"Les sangliers de Razis","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"11 janvier 2011","format":false,"excerpt":"Cela faisait 3 jours que Yann et Guillaume \u00e9cumait les cascades du coin malgr\u00e9 les conditions d\u00e9plorables. J'ai pu enfin me lib\u00e9rer aujourd'hui pour les accompagner, direction les cascades des Razis \u00e0 Cr\u00e9voux, avec un ciel tout bleu et coup de bol, des temp\u00e9ratures franchement n\u00e9gatives! On commence par un\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Ski de rando et freeride"","block_context":{"text":"Ski de rando et freeride","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/ski-freeride\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]},{"id":5638,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/contamine-grisolle-mont-blanc-tacul\/","url_meta":{"origin":11576,"position":4},"title":"Contamine-Grisolle v2015, Mont Blanc du Tacul","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"27 juin 2015","format":false,"excerpt":"Je me souviens avoir parcouru la Contamine-Grisolle au Mont Blanc du Tacul tout en corde tendue, en discutant avec les copains, en avan\u00e7ant dans des marches pour un parcours \u00e0 99,99% en neige. Nous avions mis 1h30 pour l'ascension tout en sortant au sommet il me semble, sans \"bourrer\" particuli\u00e8rement.\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Alpinisme"","block_context":{"text":"Alpinisme","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/alpinisme\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"mont blanc du tacul, chamonix","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/06\/P1060812-300x225.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":17447,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/video-freeride-zabardast-pakistan\/","url_meta":{"origin":11576,"position":5},"title":"Vid\u00e9o freeride: \u00ab\u00a0Zabardast\u00a0\u00bb, Pakistan","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"3 janvier 2019","format":false,"excerpt":"Des freeriders qui trouvent la montagne, des jours marche pour d\u00e9couvrir ce qu\u2019est la glace dans une face, \u00e7a peut para\u00eetre ridicule. Pourtant j\u2019ai envie de dire bravo \u00e0 ces gars.","rel":"","context":"Dans "Alpinisme"","block_context":{"text":"Alpinisme","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/alpinisme\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"video zabardast ski freeride","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/zabardast-ski-freeride.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/zabardast-ski-freeride.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/zabardast-ski-freeride.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/zabardast-ski-freeride.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11576","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=11576"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11576\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":11722,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11576\/revisions\/11722"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=11576"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=11576"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=11576"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}