{"id":11536,"date":"2010-05-06T14:25:51","date_gmt":"2010-05-06T12:25:51","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/blog\/?p=610"},"modified":"2021-01-21T12:24:49","modified_gmt":"2021-01-21T11:24:49","slug":"longueur-diametre-corde-escalade","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/longueur-diametre-corde-escalade\/","title":{"rendered":"Choix longueur et diam\u00e8tre d’une corde de falaise"},"content":{"rendered":"

Dans les diff\u00e9rents mod\u00e8les de corde \u00e0 simple propos\u00e9s, il n’est pas toujours facile de s’y retrouver. Voici quelques conseils pour s’y retrouver:<\/p>\n

Quelle longueur?<\/span><\/p>\n

70 m suffisent pour la plupart des falaises et c’est donc la longueur standard actuelle<\/span>, m\u00eame si 80 m\u00e8tres sont parfois indispensables sur les spots d\u00e9versant modernes (Rodellar, Saint-Leger, …).
\nBien s\u00fbr une 100m c’est le top pour les longueurs \u00ab\u00a0abu\u00a0\u00bb des gorges du Tarn, mais en fractionnant la descente 80m sont g\u00e9rables.
\nLe mieux est peut \u00eatre d’avoir une 60m pour les spots classiques et de garder la 80 en r\u00e9serve pour les spots \u00e0 grandes longueurs, mais l’investissement est plus lourd.<\/p>\n

Quel diam\u00e8tre?<\/span><\/p>\n

La corde parfaite n’existe pas et il faut trouver le compromis en tenant compte de son utilisation et de son habitude dans l’assurage.
\nPlus c’est fin, plus c’est l\u00e9ger et facile pour les mousquetonnages, mais la long\u00e9vit\u00e9 baisse et il faut \u00eatre vigilant \u00e0 l’assurage (\u00e9lasticit\u00e9 plus grande et blocage moins efficace suivant le type d’assureur utilis\u00e9).
\nPlus le diam\u00e8tre est \u00e9lev\u00e9, plus la corde sera robuste mais malheureusement donc plus lourde, autant sur les \u00e9paules durant l’approche que lors des mousquetonnages au taquet apr\u00e8s 30m de grimpe.
\nLe meilleur compromis est alors le diam\u00e8tre 9.7 ou 9.8 mm<\/span> (comme la Booster de Beal ou la Nitro de Sterling).<\/p>\n

Autre chose, ce qui use les cordes pr\u00e9matur\u00e9ment, ce sont les petits vols \u00e0 r\u00e9p\u00e9titions. En se vachant quelques secondes avec une deuxi\u00e8me d\u00e9gaine, on laisse les fibres se remettre en place et la corde sera moins sollicit\u00e9e sur les vols suivants.
\nN’oubliez pas non plus la b\u00e2che ou le sac \u00e0 corde afin d’\u00e9viter de la laisser trainer dans la poussi\u00e8re.
\nEt bien s\u00fbr, il faut TOUJOURS FAIRE UNE NOEUD EN BOUT DE CORDE OU L’ATTACHER AU SAC!<\/p>\n

Allez, pour vous f\u00e9liciter de votre lecture, une petite vid\u00e9o de Daniel Woods qui fait du bloc dans le Minnesota<\/a>.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Dans les diff\u00e9rents mod\u00e8les de corde \u00e0 simple propos\u00e9s, il n’est pas toujours facile de s’y retrouver. Voici quelques conseils<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"colormag_page_container_layout":"default_layout","colormag_page_sidebar_layout":"default_layout","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[207],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-11536","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-techniques-de-corde-et-securite"],"yoast_head":"\nChoix longueur et diam\u00e8tre d'une corde de falaise – L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\/moniteur escalade<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/longueur-diametre-corde-escalade\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Choix longueur et diam\u00e8tre d'une corde de falaise – L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\/moniteur escalade\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Dans les diff\u00e9rents mod\u00e8les de corde \u00e0 simple propos\u00e9s, il n’est pas toujours facile de s’y retrouver. 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Diam\u00e8tre, longueur, traitement, conception, \u2026 voici un petit article pour vous aider \u00e0 s\u2019y retrouver dans les diff\u00e9rentes cordes. Vous \u00eates un pratiquant occasionnel, plut\u00f4t sur mur que falaise ? Les cordes Edlinger Beal\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures"","block_context":{"text":"Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/tests-materiel\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"choix corde escalade et avis","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/blog-v1\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/05\/AAA_0504-300x193.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":11607,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/test-corde-beal-diablo\/","url_meta":{"origin":11536,"position":1},"title":"Test corde Beal DIABLO","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"14 septembre 2011","format":false,"excerpt":"Voil\u00e0 enfin le test de la nouvelle corde Diablo de B\u00e9al. J'aurais aim\u00e9 le sortir plus t\u00f4t mais le temps pour grimper et tester convenablement m'a manqu\u00e9 derni\u00e8rement. Le proc\u00e9d\u00e9 Unicore est appliqu\u00e9 \u00e0 cette corde, alors qu'il \u00e9tait jusqu'\u00e0 pr\u00e9sent r\u00e9serv\u00e9 aux cordes semi-statiques. L'\u00e2me et la gaine restent\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures"","block_context":{"text":"Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/tests-materiel\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]},{"id":2285,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/a-capella-sapey\/","url_meta":{"origin":11536,"position":2},"title":"A Capella, SapeyA Capella, Sapey","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"23 juin 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"A Capella, a very nice slaby route on Pointe de Dran, Sapey. Dimanche apr\u00e8s-midi nous sommes mont\u00e9s faire A Capella \u00e0 la Pointe de Dran (Sappey). On a commenc\u00e9 \u00e0 grimper vers 14h, il faisait bien chaud pour la marche d'approche mais c'\u00e9tait supportable pour la grimpe. N\u00e9anmoins partir 2h\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"P1040796","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/06\/P1040796-225x300.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":11604,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/test-corde-absolute-pro-millet\/","url_meta":{"origin":11536,"position":3},"title":"Test corde Absolute Pro Millet","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"28 juillet 2011","format":false,"excerpt":"Ce printemps la soci\u00e9t\u00e9 Millet m'avait gentiment envoy\u00e9 une corde Absolute Pro en 70m \u00e0 tester. Voil\u00e0 enfin le r\u00e9sultat du test apr\u00e8s ceux de No Spot et Escalade-Alsace. Donc pour pr\u00e9senter cette ficelle rapidement, elle ne fait que 9mm de diam\u00e8tre et satisfait aux exigences des 3 types de\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures"","block_context":{"text":"Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/tests-materiel\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]},{"id":11671,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/test-corde-joker-unicore-beal\/","url_meta":{"origin":11536,"position":4},"title":"Test corde Joker Unicore Beal","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"11 juin 2013","format":false,"excerpt":"Je grimpe avec la nouvelle corde Joker Beal depuis f\u00e9vrier dernier, lors de ma petite semaine autour de Siurana avec Ben Moon and co. Cette nouvelle version de la Joker b\u00e9n\u00e9ficie d\u00e9sormais de la technologie Unicore, que j\u2019avais d\u00e9j\u00e0 pu essayer et appr\u00e9cier sur la corde Diablo (voir le test).\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures"","block_context":{"text":"Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/tests-materiel\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"corde escalade joker beal unicore","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/blog-v1\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/06\/test_joker-300x168.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":4009,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/test-corde-gully-beal\/","url_meta":{"origin":11536,"position":5},"title":"Test de la corde Gully Beal","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"27 novembre 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"Voil\u00e0 un peu plus d'un an que la corde Gully B\u00e9al est sortie et que nous l'utilisons. Le recul est maintenant suffisant pour publier un test apr\u00e8s une utilisation r\u00e9guli\u00e8re (voir la liste des courses effectu\u00e9es avec la Gully plus bas). Et oui chez Grimpisme on ne teste pas le\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures"","block_context":{"text":"Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/tests-materiel\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"test_corde_gully_beal (2)","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/test_corde_gully_beal-2-300x225.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11536","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=11536"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11536\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":20366,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11536\/revisions\/20366"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=11536"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=11536"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=11536"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}