{"id":11530,"date":"2010-03-30T17:11:55","date_gmt":"2010-03-30T16:11:55","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/blog\/?p=514"},"modified":"2010-03-30T17:11:55","modified_gmt":"2010-03-30T16:11:55","slug":"test-chausson-team-fiveten","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/test-chausson-team-fiveten\/","title":{"rendered":"Test Team 5.10"},"content":{"rendered":"

Cela fait 2 mois que je grimpe avec les nouveaux chaussons Team de Five Ten et il est tant que je vous donne mes impressions, des impressions par d\u00e9finitions toutes personnelles et donc 100% subjectives!
\nJe dois pr\u00e9ciser que j’ai beaucoup grimp\u00e9 avec des mod\u00e8les de La Sportiva ces derni\u00e8res ann\u00e9es, et que donc je red\u00e9couvre le comportement si diff\u00e9rents des chaussons de la marque am\u00e9ricaine.<\/p>\n

\"tn_7_118401_1261719060\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Ce qui m’a surpris d\u00e8s le d\u00e9but, c’est la maintien. Du coup apr\u00e8s l’avoir au d\u00e9but class\u00e9e dans la cat\u00e9gorie ballerines, je l’ai vite migr\u00e9e dans la famille des chaussons \u00e0 velcro. Pourtant ce n’est pas vraiment ce velcro qui assure cet excellent maintien du pied (premier point fort), mais plut\u00f4t la membrane \u00e9lastique sur le coup de pied. Du coup le talon reste bien en place et renvoie de bonnes sensations (2eme point fort). La p\u00e9riode des talons pourris des Anasazi des ann\u00e9es 90 est bien r\u00e9volue.<\/p>\n

J’ai test\u00e9 ces chaussons sur mur o\u00f9 il sont excellents et en falaise o\u00f9 ils font \u00e9galement merveille gr\u00e2ce \u00e0 une pr\u00e9cision et une facilit\u00e9 pour le griff\u00e9 incroyables (3eme et 4eme points forts). Vu la forme tr\u00e8s asym\u00e9trique et cambr\u00e9e du chausson, la surface de semelle en contact avec le caillou est petite mais pourtant on peut y appliquer une tr\u00e8s grande force en ressentant exactement ce qui se passe au bout du pied.<\/p>\n

On en arrive alors au premier petit b\u00e9mol provoqu\u00e9 par une telle tonicit\u00e9 du chausson: le manque de souplesse pour les adh\u00e9rences si le profil est moins que vertical. Je les ai pris pour une dalle en 6c avec quelques adh\u00e9rences vicieuses, et franchement la Team n’est pas faite pour \u00e7a (en plus je suis un gros bourrin).
\nElle est donc faite pour les voies au minimum verticales et r\u00e9serv\u00e9e aux tr\u00e8s bons grimpeurs qui sauront utiliser le potentiel de ces armes. Si on la place mal, le pied gicle, mais peut-on demander \u00e0 des skis de slalom d’\u00eatres agr\u00e9ables en chasse-neige?<\/p>\n

Pour en finir avec les petits b\u00e9mols, la Team est en peu dur \u00e0 enfiler (mais cela est d\u00fb \u00e0 l’efficacit\u00e9 de l’\u00e9lastique du coup de pied) et le chausson est long \u00e0 faire au d\u00e9but, comme souvent avec Five Ten (je les ai pris \u00e0 ma pointure, et je vous d\u00e9conseille de prendre en dessous).
\nOn finit avec un nouveau point positif, la gomme Stealth Mystique me semble tr\u00e8s r\u00e9sistante \u00e0 l’usure.<\/p>\n

Pour conclure, les Teams sont des chaussons redoutables pour les voies dures raides, tr\u00e8s tr\u00e8s pr\u00e9cis, mais \u00e0 ne pas mettre sous tous les pieds. Je pense que la pr\u00e9cision demand\u00e9 par ce chausson va me faire progresser techniquement, et me permettre de faire plein de croix j’esp\u00e8re!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Cela fait 2 mois que je grimpe avec les nouveaux chaussons Team de Five Ten et il est tant que<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"colormag_page_container_layout":"default_layout","colormag_page_sidebar_layout":"default_layout","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[3],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-11530","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-tests-materiel"],"yoast_head":"\nTest Team 5.10 – L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\/moniteur escalade<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/test-chausson-team-fiveten\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Test Team 5.10 – L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\/moniteur escalade\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Cela fait 2 mois que je grimpe avec les nouveaux chaussons Team de Five Ten et il est tant que\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/test-chausson-team-fiveten\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - Fred Vionnet entraineur\/moniteur escalade\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/grimpisme\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:author\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/fredCaillouXvionnet\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2010-03-30T16:11:55+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"http:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/tn_7_118401_1261719060.jpg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Fred Vionnet\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"\u00c9crit par\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Fred Vionnet\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Dur\u00e9e de lecture estim\u00e9e\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"2 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/test-chausson-team-fiveten\\\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/test-chausson-team-fiveten\\\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Fred Vionnet\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/e0e0520aa48cfda56ae5406c2fe2caeb\"},\"headline\":\"Test Team 5.10\",\"datePublished\":\"2010-03-30T16:11:55+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/test-chausson-team-fiveten\\\/\"},\"wordCount\":486,\"commentCount\":0,\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/#organization\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/test-chausson-team-fiveten\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"http:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/blog\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2010\\\/03\\\/tn_7_118401_1261719060.jpg\",\"articleSection\":[\"Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures\"],\"inLanguage\":\"fr-FR\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"CommentAction\",\"name\":\"Comment\",\"target\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/test-chausson-team-fiveten\\\/#respond\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/test-chausson-team-fiveten\\\/\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.escalade.pro\\\/news\\\/test-chausson-team-fiveten\\\/\",\"name\":\"Test Team 5.10 – L'Arqu\u00e9e Libre - 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Pas contre une grande voie non plus. Mais on va \u00e0 C\u00e9\u00fcse, Fontainebleau, Buoux ou encore les Gorges du Verdon quand vous voulez.","sameAs":["http:\/\/www.grimpisme.com","https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/fredCaillouXvionnet","https:\/\/www.linkedin.com\/profile\/preview?vpa=pub&locale=fr_FR","https:\/\/fr.pinterest.com\/grimpisme\/","https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/user\/grimpisme","https:\/\/soundcloud.com\/fredvionnet"],"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/author\/fred\/"}]}},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p68Rw6-2ZY","jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":13455,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/test-materiel-chaussons-mutant-boreal\/","url_meta":{"origin":11530,"position":0},"title":"Test mat\u00e9riel: chaussons Mutant Boreal","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"12 janvier 2017","format":false,"excerpt":"La Mutant de la firme espagnole Boreal est sortie en 2016. Elle est pr\u00e9sent\u00e9e comme une ballerine de haut niveau (voir la fiche technique). Je l\u2019ai utilis\u00e9e durant plusieurs mois, sur mur, bloc int\u00e9rieur\/ext\u00e9rieur et falaise. Voici mes impressions.","rel":"","context":"Dans "Coups de gueule"","block_context":{"text":"Coups de gueule","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/coup-de-gueule\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/boreal_mutant.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/boreal_mutant.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/boreal_mutant.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/boreal_mutant.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":28581,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/test-chaussons-escalade-sygma\/","url_meta":{"origin":11530,"position":1},"title":"Test des chaussons Sygma Oc\u00f9n","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"24 octobre 2025","format":false,"excerpt":"Sygma Ocun, des chaussons d'escalade tr\u00e8s performants pour la falaise technique sur petites prises.","rel":"","context":"Dans "A la une"","block_context":{"text":"A la une","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/highlitghs\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"chausson escalade climbing shoes ocun sygma","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/IMG_4577-1.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/IMG_4577-1.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/IMG_4577-1.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/IMG_4577-1.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":11582,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/test-hornet-fiveten\/","url_meta":{"origin":11530,"position":2},"title":"Test Hornet Five Ten et Contact Mad Rock","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"22 mars 2011","format":false,"excerpt":"Quoi de mieux pour reprendre le caillou, apr\u00e8s plusieurs mois de quasi-abstinence, que de grimper dans les dalles patin\u00e9es et retorses du secteur \"Nuit d'amour\" de Saint Cr\u00e9pin Beach? On range son amour propre, on oublie qu'on est un des cadors du pan et on se fait tordre dans un\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures"","block_context":{"text":"Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/tests-materiel\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"P1110073","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/blog-v1\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/03\/P1110073-300x174.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":26620,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/test-chausson-escalade-indalo-tenaya\/","url_meta":{"origin":11530,"position":3},"title":"Test chaussons escalade Indalo de Tenaya","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"19 janvier 2025","format":false,"excerpt":"Un retour tr\u00e8s positif sur ces chaussons tr\u00e8s polyvalents et confortables. On en voit beaucoup, c'est justifi\u00e9.","rel":"","context":"Dans "Escalade"","block_context":{"text":"Escalade","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/escalade\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"test chausson escalade indalo tenaya","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/12\/IMG_4283.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/12\/IMG_4283.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/12\/IMG_4283.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/12\/IMG_4283.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":11644,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/test-boostic-scarpa\/","url_meta":{"origin":11530,"position":4},"title":"Test Boostic Scarpa","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"22 juillet 2012","format":false,"excerpt":"Nous avons rentr\u00e9 dans le magasin les nouveaux Boostic de Scarpa d\u00e9but juin. C'est la premi\u00e8re fois que j'utilisais des chaussons Scarpa, je les ai pris en taille 40 (pour du 42 en ville, 38.5 Sportiva, 42 FiveTen), ce qui me semble la bonne pointure apr\u00e8s plus d'un mois d'utilisation\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "News et actu"","block_context":{"text":"News et actu","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/news\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"test scarpa chausson boostic escalade","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/blog-v1\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/scarpa-boostic2-300x242.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":4747,"url":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/test-chaussons-hiangle-fiveten\/","url_meta":{"origin":11530,"position":5},"title":"Test chaussons Hiangle FiveTen","author":"Fred Vionnet","date":"30 mars 2015","format":false,"excerpt":"Les chaussons Hiangle Fiveten (voir la fiche produit sur le site du fabricant) sont arriv\u00e9s en France au d\u00e9but de l\u2019automne 2014. J\u2019ai pu grimper avec la m\u00eame paire durant 7 mois sur mur, pan et falaise. Ils commencent \u00e0 \u00eatre trou\u00e9s, il est temps de partager avec vous mon\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures"","block_context":{"text":"Tests mat\u00e9riel, nouveaut\u00e9s et lectures","link":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/category\/tests-materiel\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"test chausson escalade hiangle fiveten","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/caro_sinno_fiveten_hiangle-300x200.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11530","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=11530"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11530\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=11530"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=11530"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.escalade.pro\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=11530"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}